1 00:01:19,825 --> 00:01:21,702 On the clothes we wear, **Like, Share and Follow our Instagram @Layarkaca21indo.id for Support** 2 00:01:21,994 --> 00:01:23,829 the people who make these clothes, 3 00:01:24,037 --> 00:01:26,498 and the impact it is having on our world. 4 00:01:29,751 --> 00:01:32,296 It is a story about greed and fear, 5 00:01:32,588 --> 00:01:34,339 power and poverty. 6 00:01:35,465 --> 00:01:38,927 It is complex, because it extends throughout the world. 7 00:01:39,261 --> 00:01:40,554 But it is also simple, 8 00:01:40,929 --> 00:01:44,349 revealing how connected we are to the many hearts and hands 9 00:01:44,516 --> 00:01:45,851 behind our clothes. 10 00:01:51,481 --> 00:01:54,359 I went into this story without having any experience in fashion, 11 00:01:54,651 --> 00:01:57,279 starting with only a few simple questions. 12 00:01:57,779 --> 00:01:59,239 What I've discovered, 13 00:01:59,406 --> 00:02:02,201 It has forever changed how I think about the clothes I wear, 14 00:02:02,618 --> 00:02:07,080 and my hope is that you do the same thing happen. 15 00:02:19,927 --> 00:02:22,221 Perhaps you can begin by saying your name 16 00:02:22,387 --> 00:02:25,224 and he is talking about how it was that started this. 17 00:02:25,390 --> 00:02:26,725 My name is Lucy Siegle. 18 00:02:26,892 --> 00:02:30,270 I am a journalist and presenter based in the UK, 19 00:02:30,437 --> 00:02:34,024 and I've been obsessed, consumed 20 00:02:34,191 --> 00:02:38,529 the environmental and social impacts of the fashion industry 21 00:02:38,737 --> 00:02:40,572 for about a decade. 22 00:02:40,864 --> 00:02:43,242 I like everything from clothing. 23 00:02:43,408 --> 00:02:46,119 I love poetry, I love the fabric, 24 00:02:46,286 --> 00:02:48,247 I love the colors, textures, 25 00:02:48,413 --> 00:02:50,749 I love how you feel. 26 00:02:50,916 --> 00:02:53,710 It is the skin that we choose. 27 00:02:54,127 --> 00:02:58,423 Well, I had the classic huge closet, 28 00:02:58,590 --> 00:03:00,050 clothes everywhere, 29 00:03:00,217 --> 00:03:03,095 bags continually coming into my house, 30 00:03:03,262 --> 00:03:05,556 every day, every other day with another item 31 00:03:05,722 --> 00:03:07,182 and I never had anything to wear. 32 00:03:07,349 --> 00:03:11,019 I could never put together a coherent whole. 33 00:03:13,355 --> 00:03:15,315 We communicate who we are 34 00:03:15,482 --> 00:03:17,192 to some extent through clothing. 35 00:03:17,359 --> 00:03:19,903 This is, again, throughout history. 36 00:03:20,070 --> 00:03:21,822 We trends in court, 37 00:03:22,030 --> 00:03:25,242 and Marie Antoinette with these huge hats. 38 00:03:25,409 --> 00:03:28,996 It has always been our personal communication in many ways. 39 00:03:29,162 --> 00:03:31,039 That's what interests me, 40 00:03:31,206 --> 00:03:35,544 which it is essentially part of what we want to communicate 41 00:03:35,711 --> 00:03:36,751 about ourselves. 42 00:03:42,926 --> 00:03:45,429 We used to have a system, a system of fashion 43 00:03:45,596 --> 00:03:47,639 where people went to the parades, 44 00:03:47,806 --> 00:03:50,309 so did spring, summer, autumn, winter, 45 00:03:50,475 --> 00:03:53,228 and it worked like clockwork for many years. 46 00:03:53,395 --> 00:03:55,689 Well, forget it, throw it out the window. 47 00:03:55,856 --> 00:03:59,443 That has absolutely nothing to do with today's fashion industry. 48 00:03:59,610 --> 00:04:01,570 It has been reinvented. 49 00:04:01,904 --> 00:04:04,990 The change moves ruthlessly 50 00:04:06,116 --> 00:04:09,536 to a way of producing 51 00:04:09,703 --> 00:04:13,999 actually only deals 52 00:04:14,499 --> 00:04:16,502 the interests of big business. 53 00:04:18,420 --> 00:04:20,506 Young, she did not give much importance 54 00:04:20,672 --> 00:04:23,175 anything other than the price of buying clothes, 55 00:04:23,342 --> 00:04:26,220 usually choosing in the style or a good deal. 56 00:04:26,762 --> 00:04:29,056 Looking back, I knew for a long time 57 00:04:29,223 --> 00:04:32,142 most of our clothes are made here in the United States. 58 00:04:32,476 --> 00:04:36,605 As recently as the '60s, still we did 95% of our clothes. 59 00:04:37,314 --> 00:04:39,733 Today, we only about 3% 60 00:04:39,900 --> 00:04:41,777 and the other 97% is outsourced 61 00:04:41,944 --> 00:04:43,862 in developing countries worldwide. 62 00:04:49,618 --> 00:04:52,246 I have been in business for over nine years. 63 00:04:52,412 --> 00:04:54,873 In terms of scale, we have about 25 000 people 64 00:04:55,040 --> 00:04:56,792 only what is manufacturing garments. 65 00:04:56,959 --> 00:05:00,254 We produce one of every six shirts sold in the US. UU. 66 00:05:02,631 --> 00:05:04,216 If you go to a store, 67 00:05:04,383 --> 00:05:08,595 and compare the price of an item in the last 20 years, 68 00:05:08,762 --> 00:05:11,765 you will discover that there are actually deflation product 69 00:05:11,932 --> 00:05:13,809 that is, the price has dropped over time. 70 00:05:13,976 --> 00:05:16,562 Now, our costs have decreased? Absolutely. 71 00:05:16,728 --> 00:05:18,272 Our costs have gone up. 72 00:05:19,147 --> 00:05:20,858 The more we have outsourced production, 73 00:05:21,024 --> 00:05:23,694 have become cheaper prices of clothes we buy, 74 00:05:23,861 --> 00:05:27,239 I give way to an entirely new model, known as Fast Fashion, 75 00:05:27,489 --> 00:05:31,827 the overnight, transforming how the clothes are bought and sold. 76 00:05:32,119 --> 00:05:35,122 The latest H & M store on 5th Avenue in Manhattan 77 00:05:35,289 --> 00:05:37,124 It is the largest in the history of the company, 78 00:05:37,291 --> 00:05:39,918 and one of the many new stores planned in the country. 79 00:05:40,085 --> 00:05:42,629 This is part of a revolution in trade, 80 00:05:42,796 --> 00:05:43,796 Fast Fashion. 81 00:05:43,797 --> 00:05:45,257 Instead of two seasons per year, 82 00:05:45,424 --> 00:05:47,926 practically we have 52 seasons a year. 83 00:05:48,093 --> 00:05:50,345 So we have something new every week. 84 00:05:50,512 --> 00:05:52,931 And fast fashion has created this, 85 00:05:53,098 --> 00:05:55,767 primarily to sell more products. 86 00:06:04,860 --> 00:06:06,695 We love TopShop! 87 00:06:06,862 --> 00:06:10,657 You can get this metallic fringed skirt for $ 39 at Joe Fresh 88 00:06:10,824 --> 00:06:12,075 a new store in the city. 89 00:06:12,242 --> 00:06:15,954 With a little more attractive to cost-conscious buyers prices. 90 00:06:16,121 --> 00:06:20,334 American consumers fully captured fashion H & M, 91 00:06:20,501 --> 00:06:22,669 and we already know that Americans 92 00:06:22,836 --> 00:06:24,213 They are very price oriented. 93 00:06:24,379 --> 00:06:26,924 If you combine these two together, with fashion and price, 94 00:06:27,090 --> 00:06:28,175 then you have the recipe. 95 00:06:28,342 --> 00:06:30,886 A Japanese clothing retailer is leaving 96 00:06:31,053 --> 00:06:33,931 fast and furious mark here in the US. UU. 97 00:06:34,097 --> 00:06:35,557 The price has dropped. 98 00:06:35,724 --> 00:06:39,937 The way to do that product has changed completely. 99 00:06:40,103 --> 00:06:42,231 And at some point one must ask: 100 00:06:42,397 --> 00:06:43,732 "Where does it end?" 101 00:06:43,899 --> 00:06:45,859 The global market is a place 102 00:06:46,026 --> 00:06:48,570 we export the work to be performed 103 00:06:48,737 --> 00:06:50,697 in any conditions we want, 104 00:06:50,864 --> 00:06:52,366 products and then come back to me, 105 00:06:52,533 --> 00:06:55,244 so cheap you can throw without thinking about it. 106 00:06:55,619 --> 00:06:58,121 JOHN HILARY, DIRECTOR EJECUTIVO DE WAR ON WANT 107 00:06:58,288 --> 00:07:00,832 Globalized production basically means 108 00:07:00,999 --> 00:07:02,709 that all manufacturing of goods 109 00:07:02,876 --> 00:07:05,879 It has been outsourced to low-cost economies, 110 00:07:06,046 --> 00:07:09,550 particularly where wages are very low and remain low. 111 00:07:09,716 --> 00:07:13,512 And what that means is that those at the top of the value chain, 112 00:07:13,679 --> 00:07:16,557 They can choose where products are made, 113 00:07:16,723 --> 00:07:20,143 and may change if, for example, a factory says: 114 00:07:20,310 --> 00:07:22,104 "We can not do it so cheap." 115 00:07:22,271 --> 00:07:24,773 The brand will say, "Well, no longer will go to you. 116 00:07:24,940 --> 00:07:27,568 Let's move to another site that is cheaper. " 117 00:07:32,739 --> 00:07:35,450 Dacca, Bangladesh 118 00:07:36,159 --> 00:07:39,580 In the West they say: "everyday low prices". 119 00:07:39,746 --> 00:07:41,748 So, every day, causing me difficulties 120 00:07:41,915 --> 00:07:44,418 and he caused them to my employees, and it works. 121 00:07:44,710 --> 00:07:46,753 Competing stores are competing there. 122 00:07:46,920 --> 00:07:50,424 When stores come to us for ordering and negotiate, 123 00:07:50,591 --> 00:07:52,759 They tell us: "Look, that particular store 124 00:07:52,926 --> 00:07:55,596 this shirt is selling for $ 5, 125 00:07:55,804 --> 00:07:58,265 so I have to sell it at $ 4. 126 00:07:58,599 --> 00:08:00,142 You'll have to reduce your price. " 127 00:08:00,309 --> 00:08:01,309 So we reduce it. 128 00:08:01,351 --> 00:08:02,811 Then comes another store saying: 129 00:08:02,978 --> 00:08:04,980 "Hey, they are selling it at $ 4. 130 00:08:05,147 --> 00:08:07,566 The target price is $ 3, if you can do it for $ 3, 131 00:08:07,733 --> 00:08:10,152 You get the business, otherwise you do not get it ". 132 00:08:10,319 --> 00:08:12,696 As desperately we want the business, 133 00:08:12,863 --> 00:08:15,699 and we have no other options, okay. 134 00:08:15,866 --> 00:08:18,869 We are always trying to survive, actually. 135 00:08:19,494 --> 00:08:21,413 In the end, something ends up giving. 136 00:08:21,580 --> 00:08:23,582 Or the product price has to rise 137 00:08:23,749 --> 00:08:26,960 or manufacturers have to close, 138 00:08:27,169 --> 00:08:28,962 or cut costs to operate. 139 00:08:29,421 --> 00:08:32,007 Cut costs and ignore safety measures 140 00:08:32,174 --> 00:08:35,302 It was accepted as part of doing business in this new model, 141 00:08:35,469 --> 00:08:37,095 until one morning in April, 142 00:08:37,262 --> 00:08:39,640 when an event, on the outskirts of Dhaka, Bangladesh, 143 00:08:39,806 --> 00:08:42,434 It took a hidden side of fashion headlines. 144 00:08:42,601 --> 00:08:44,394 State media in Bangladesh 145 00:08:44,561 --> 00:08:48,232 say an eight-story building collapsed near the capital Dhaka, 146 00:08:48,398 --> 00:08:50,275 killing more than 70 people. 147 00:09:01,620 --> 00:09:04,289 Rescue crews work around the clock, 148 00:09:04,456 --> 00:09:06,875 looking through the rubble, trying to find 149 00:09:07,042 --> 00:09:09,253 many survivors as possible. 150 00:09:09,419 --> 00:09:10,796 They have hundreds dead, 151 00:09:10,963 --> 00:09:12,923 hundreds still may be buried alive, 152 00:09:13,090 --> 00:09:14,508 and officials in Bangladesh say 153 00:09:14,675 --> 00:09:17,427 the factory owners ignored the order to evacuate. 154 00:09:17,636 --> 00:09:21,807 400 dead, yet it is believed that hundreds are missing. 155 00:09:21,974 --> 00:09:26,061 Garment workers in Bangladesh pay the price of cheap clothes. 156 00:09:26,478 --> 00:09:29,356 A large crowd has gathered near the building, 157 00:09:29,523 --> 00:09:32,693 many families searching for their loved ones, 158 00:09:32,860 --> 00:09:35,779 and they say you can still hear people screaming 159 00:09:35,946 --> 00:09:39,074 under the rubble, crying for help. 160 00:09:39,241 --> 00:09:41,702 Many are simply losing hope. 161 00:09:43,203 --> 00:09:45,289 From where he was working, 162 00:09:45,455 --> 00:09:48,625 I approached the stairs. 163 00:09:49,001 --> 00:09:50,794 When I got them 164 00:09:50,961 --> 00:09:53,839 the building collapsed and my legs were trapped. 165 00:09:55,716 --> 00:09:59,052 The side walls fell on my legs. 166 00:10:00,721 --> 00:10:05,934 I realized that I could not get my legs, I gave up. 167 00:10:06,143 --> 00:10:11,690 I came to mind hundreds of thoughts. 168 00:10:11,899 --> 00:10:14,651 I could not even mourn. 169 00:10:16,653 --> 00:10:19,573 Anyone who, like me, 170 00:10:19,740 --> 00:10:23,619 I had written about the problems in the supply chain, 171 00:10:23,785 --> 00:10:25,621 particularly for Fast Fashion, 172 00:10:25,787 --> 00:10:27,831 and he tried to articulate 173 00:10:27,998 --> 00:10:31,543 how he was moving risk 174 00:10:31,710 --> 00:10:35,547 the most vulnerable and lowest paid. 175 00:10:36,465 --> 00:10:39,718 You try to articulate it, but you could never imagine 176 00:10:39,885 --> 00:10:42,971 that there would be so catastrophic illustration 177 00:10:43,138 --> 00:10:45,265 what you were trying to say. 178 00:10:45,432 --> 00:10:49,520 And Rana Square for me was like a horror story. 179 00:10:49,978 --> 00:10:51,980 Two weeks after the disaster, 180 00:10:52,147 --> 00:10:56,318 and the death toll amounts to the shocking figure of 931, 181 00:10:56,485 --> 00:10:59,988 making it the worst disaster textile history. 182 00:11:00,280 --> 00:11:04,409 I think one of the most deeply impressive things 183 00:11:04,576 --> 00:11:08,413 Rana on disaster Square was the news 184 00:11:08,580 --> 00:11:11,917 the workers had already pointed to the direction 185 00:11:12,084 --> 00:11:13,877 cracks in the building. 186 00:11:14,044 --> 00:11:15,462 They had already noted 187 00:11:15,629 --> 00:11:18,131 that the building was structurally unsafe, 188 00:11:18,298 --> 00:11:20,425 and yet they were forced to re-enter. 189 00:11:20,843 --> 00:11:22,469 Many survivors wonder 190 00:11:22,636 --> 00:11:24,638 how they could be forced to return to work 191 00:11:24,805 --> 00:11:28,141 when management knew the cracks in the building, 192 00:11:28,308 --> 00:11:31,395 and concerns of workers on the day of the collapse. 193 00:11:31,854 --> 00:11:35,107 Many clothes in US stores is made in Bangladesh 194 00:11:35,274 --> 00:11:37,985 by workers who earn about $ 2 a day. 195 00:11:38,277 --> 00:11:41,071 Last month, a textile factory collapsed, 196 00:11:41,321 --> 00:11:43,407 killing more than 1,000 people, 197 00:11:43,574 --> 00:11:48,704 and a few months before, a fire in a factory left more than 100 dead. 198 00:11:48,871 --> 00:11:51,582 And as bodies are recovered from the rubble, 199 00:11:51,748 --> 00:11:54,585 another factory in Bangladesh this morning caught fire, 200 00:11:54,751 --> 00:11:55,961 leaving eight dead. 201 00:11:56,879 --> 00:11:59,464 Disaster stories in garment factories 202 00:11:59,631 --> 00:12:00,757 They monopolized the news, 203 00:12:00,924 --> 00:12:03,969 the fact is that now three of the four worst tragedies 204 00:12:04,136 --> 00:12:07,764 in fashion history they had occurred in the past year. 205 00:12:08,182 --> 00:12:11,435 While growing death toll amounted profits generated. 206 00:12:11,602 --> 00:12:13,812 The following year disaster Rana Square, 207 00:12:13,979 --> 00:12:16,940 It was the most profitable sector for all time. 208 00:12:17,441 --> 00:12:18,734 The global fashion industry 209 00:12:18,901 --> 00:12:22,112 It is now an annual industry nearly three trillion dollars. 210 00:12:22,321 --> 00:12:24,364 Bangladesh is already the second largest 211 00:12:24,531 --> 00:12:27,034 exporter of clothing after China. 212 00:12:27,201 --> 00:12:29,870 How? Well, unlike some of its competitors, 213 00:12:30,037 --> 00:12:32,998 Bangladeshi manufacturing is still very cheap, 214 00:12:33,165 --> 00:12:35,501 and unions have limited power. 215 00:12:35,667 --> 00:12:40,297 The country grabbed the lower end of the value chain. 216 00:12:40,631 --> 00:12:45,010 1000 Those poor girls, were killed 217 00:12:45,177 --> 00:12:50,307 because no one cared, no one will give a shit. 218 00:12:50,474 --> 00:12:53,268 Just they wanted cheap price and good profit. 219 00:12:53,435 --> 00:12:54,770 It should not be. 220 00:12:54,937 --> 00:12:57,981 Everyone should take responsibility for these girls. 221 00:13:03,153 --> 00:13:04,446 it's like that. 222 00:13:06,073 --> 00:13:07,491 It could happen again. 223 00:13:07,658 --> 00:13:11,870 Sorry, but it's not just the price pressure. 224 00:13:12,037 --> 00:13:13,247 It is something ... 225 00:13:13,413 --> 00:13:15,123 It is to ignore the lives of others. 226 00:13:15,290 --> 00:13:18,377 It's not ... should not ... it's not right. 227 00:13:18,544 --> 00:13:20,420 We are in the XXI century. 228 00:13:20,671 --> 00:13:22,297 We live in a global world, 229 00:13:22,464 --> 00:13:25,092 And just we ignore the lives of others? 230 00:13:25,300 --> 00:13:26,385 How it is possible? 231 00:13:26,552 --> 00:13:30,556 This huge and predatory industry 232 00:13:30,722 --> 00:13:32,975 which it is generating many benefits 233 00:13:33,141 --> 00:13:34,935 for a handful of people, 234 00:13:35,435 --> 00:13:37,563 Why is unable 235 00:13:37,729 --> 00:13:41,275 to support their million workers properly? 236 00:13:41,441 --> 00:13:45,571 Why you are not able to ensure their safety? 237 00:13:45,737 --> 00:13:47,739 We are talking about basic human rights. 238 00:13:47,906 --> 00:13:49,825 Why is unable to ensure that 239 00:13:49,992 --> 00:13:52,953 while it is generating these huge profits? 240 00:13:53,120 --> 00:13:55,038 Is it because it does not work properly? 241 00:13:55,205 --> 00:13:56,331 That is my question. 242 00:13:57,958 --> 00:14:00,502 Lucy's question sounds like the most obvious. 243 00:14:00,669 --> 00:14:03,714 But instead of answering, wherever I looked, I found people 244 00:14:03,881 --> 00:14:05,799 constantly justify the cost 245 00:14:05,966 --> 00:14:08,385 by economic benefits generated. 246 00:14:08,677 --> 00:14:12,764 So this production of low wages, so-called "sweatshops" 247 00:14:12,931 --> 00:14:15,601 is not only the least bad option for the workers, 248 00:14:15,767 --> 00:14:18,812 It is part of a process that raises living standards 249 00:14:18,979 --> 00:14:22,357 and leads to higher wages and better working conditions wages. 250 00:14:22,524 --> 00:14:26,904 The immediate causes of development are physical capital, technology 251 00:14:27,070 --> 00:14:29,281 and human capital and worker skills. 252 00:14:29,448 --> 00:14:31,116 When they workshops to those countries, 253 00:14:31,283 --> 00:14:33,952 the three elements bring these workers 254 00:14:34,119 --> 00:14:35,954 and begin to put that process in motion. 255 00:14:36,121 --> 00:14:39,458 Can sweatshops be really good? 256 00:14:39,625 --> 00:14:41,460 Yes, those terrible, horrible workshops. 257 00:14:41,627 --> 00:14:43,420 The very name "sweatshop" 258 00:14:43,587 --> 00:14:46,340 conjures up horrific images of poor people and children, 259 00:14:46,507 --> 00:14:50,177 suffering in Third World countries, enslaved in appalling conditions 260 00:14:50,344 --> 00:14:53,138 making products for us, selfish Americans. 261 00:14:53,305 --> 00:14:55,140 And thanks. Good! 262 00:14:55,307 --> 00:14:59,102 Does it bother me that people are working in a factory, 263 00:14:59,269 --> 00:15:02,814 making clothes for Americans, 264 00:15:02,981 --> 00:15:04,900 or European? 265 00:15:05,067 --> 00:15:07,736 Or they are ... What so spend their lives? 266 00:15:08,820 --> 00:15:10,739 Is that what you're asking? 267 00:15:10,906 --> 00:15:12,699 Yeah right. 268 00:15:14,284 --> 00:15:17,329 No. I mean, they are doing work. 269 00:15:18,205 --> 00:15:20,332 They could be doing much worse. 270 00:15:20,541 --> 00:15:22,543 This is live television, and ask 271 00:15:22,709 --> 00:15:24,086 defining the sweatshops. 272 00:15:24,253 --> 00:15:25,546 We must be very clear 273 00:15:25,712 --> 00:15:27,381 what we talked about at the beginning. 274 00:15:27,548 --> 00:15:30,259 We're talking about places with poor working conditions 275 00:15:30,425 --> 00:15:32,803 from the standpoint of normal Americans, 276 00:15:32,970 --> 00:15:36,056 low wages for our level, places where children work, 277 00:15:36,223 --> 00:15:38,225 that can violate the labor law of the country, 278 00:15:38,392 --> 00:15:40,269 but there are key characteristics of the type, 279 00:15:40,435 --> 00:15:42,479 of which I want to talk tonight, Kennedy, 280 00:15:42,646 --> 00:15:45,148 And there are places where people choose to work, 281 00:15:45,315 --> 00:15:47,818 certainly a number of other bad choices. 282 00:15:48,151 --> 00:15:50,487 I mean, there is nothing inherently dangerous 283 00:15:50,654 --> 00:15:51,738 in sewing clothes. 284 00:15:51,905 --> 00:15:53,740 Then we started 285 00:15:53,907 --> 00:15:57,244 with a relatively safe industry. 286 00:15:57,411 --> 00:16:00,247 It's not like coal mining, mining or natural gas, 287 00:16:00,414 --> 00:16:03,750 or a lot of things I could ... that are much more dangerous. 288 00:16:03,917 --> 00:16:08,005 Work on these workshops seem horrible working conditions and salaries 289 00:16:08,172 --> 00:16:10,507 for anyone in the West who have enough money 290 00:16:10,674 --> 00:16:13,051 to have a TV and watch your video. 291 00:16:13,218 --> 00:16:15,888 But we must remember that the alternatives available 292 00:16:16,054 --> 00:16:18,307 for these workers are not our alternatives. 293 00:16:18,473 --> 00:16:20,309 They are much worse than our alternatives, 294 00:16:20,475 --> 00:16:21,768 and they are usually much worse 295 00:16:21,935 --> 00:16:24,015 who work in its factory worker. 296 00:16:24,646 --> 00:16:28,650 Low wages, unsafe conditions and disasters in factories 297 00:16:28,817 --> 00:16:31,320 They are justified by the need to create jobs 298 00:16:31,486 --> 00:16:33,572 for people without alternatives. 299 00:16:33,906 --> 00:16:36,074 This story has become the narrative, 300 00:16:36,241 --> 00:16:39,119 used to explain how the fashion industry now 301 00:16:39,286 --> 00:16:40,412 Worldwide. 302 00:16:40,579 --> 00:16:42,206 But there are those who believe 303 00:16:42,372 --> 00:16:43,999 there must be a better way 304 00:16:44,166 --> 00:16:45,417 to manufacture and sell clothing 305 00:16:45,584 --> 00:16:47,544 generating economic growth, 306 00:16:47,711 --> 00:16:49,963 but causing havoc. 307 00:16:50,547 --> 00:16:52,716 So I do not know yet 308 00:16:52,883 --> 00:16:54,635 how long has this embroidery. 309 00:16:54,801 --> 00:16:57,888 Do you think you can ask about Santo ...? 310 00:16:58,055 --> 00:17:00,265 How long has that whole panel? 311 00:17:00,432 --> 00:17:03,018 I guess because it was then seen in the breakdown of press FAB, 312 00:17:03,185 --> 00:17:04,686 but it will be great to know, right? 313 00:17:04,937 --> 00:17:08,565 Safia Minney am. I am the founder and CEO of People Tree, 314 00:17:09,024 --> 00:17:11,568 and People Tree is a fashion brand of fair trade, 315 00:17:11,735 --> 00:17:14,363 It began over 20 years ago in Japan. 316 00:17:14,821 --> 00:17:16,782 We worried that we had too navy. 317 00:17:16,949 --> 00:17:17,949 How about now? 318 00:17:17,950 --> 00:17:20,160 Because we put more black in PV14 319 00:17:20,327 --> 00:17:22,496 and it worked very, very well 320 00:17:22,663 --> 00:17:26,750 in collaboration with Orla design. 321 00:17:26,917 --> 00:17:29,670 Do we have enough prints in black in the collection? 322 00:17:30,128 --> 00:17:34,758 Well, we've lost that abstract print dust, east of here, 323 00:17:35,008 --> 00:17:37,886 in black, but I think this pink, really ... 324 00:17:38,220 --> 00:17:39,429 It is one of those prints 325 00:17:39,596 --> 00:17:42,266 I worry a bit but all work well. 326 00:17:43,267 --> 00:17:45,310 I think most fashion brands 327 00:17:45,477 --> 00:17:48,939 They start with a concept of a collection or style. 328 00:17:49,857 --> 00:17:52,609 Not often think: 329 00:17:53,652 --> 00:17:54,987 "Who is going to make the product? 330 00:17:55,153 --> 00:17:59,074 And I can make sure how manufacturers, 331 00:17:59,241 --> 00:18:02,327 or suppliers are going to eat? " 332 00:18:02,703 --> 00:18:04,788 So what we try to do in People Tree 333 00:18:04,955 --> 00:18:07,916 it really started with the capabilities we have 334 00:18:08,083 --> 00:18:11,253 in each group of manufacturers, and then design the collection, 335 00:18:11,420 --> 00:18:14,339 while we look at the integrity of the collection 336 00:18:14,506 --> 00:18:15,632 in aesthetics. 337 00:18:16,925 --> 00:18:19,761 Originally I worked with independent designers 338 00:18:19,928 --> 00:18:23,932 and I went to Bangladesh, Zimbabwe, India, Nepal, Philippines, 339 00:18:24,099 --> 00:18:27,811 and gradually we put together an incredible network 340 00:18:27,978 --> 00:18:31,023 of FTOs minded 341 00:18:31,190 --> 00:18:33,734 for the development of women, 342 00:18:33,901 --> 00:18:36,612 social development for workers and the environment 343 00:18:36,778 --> 00:18:39,072 They are absolutely essential in everything we do. 344 00:18:39,948 --> 00:18:43,493 TOKYO, JAPAN 345 00:18:44,620 --> 00:18:46,163 One two three. 346 00:18:46,330 --> 00:18:49,249 Happy World Fair Trade Day! 347 00:18:54,004 --> 00:18:58,300 Today is the 15th anniversary 348 00:18:58,467 --> 00:19:00,677 World Fair Trade. 349 00:19:00,844 --> 00:19:04,473 We organize this type of event 350 00:19:04,640 --> 00:19:06,975 in over 60 countries 351 00:19:07,142 --> 00:19:10,270 as Fair Trade movement, 352 00:19:10,437 --> 00:19:12,898 and 10 to 60 organizations 353 00:19:13,065 --> 00:19:16,068 by country participate in it. 354 00:19:16,235 --> 00:19:20,155 Today, as we do here, 355 00:19:20,322 --> 00:19:24,576 are being held fashion shows and seminars 356 00:19:24,743 --> 00:19:29,456 in more than 3,000 locations worldwide. 357 00:19:56,483 --> 00:20:00,779 Good job! It was so ... really great! 358 00:20:10,122 --> 00:20:13,750 Could you turn the body over to me a little more? 359 00:20:16,670 --> 00:20:18,046 That is beautiful. 360 00:20:18,255 --> 00:20:20,716 Fair trade is the public response 361 00:20:20,883 --> 00:20:22,634 to correct social injustice 362 00:20:22,801 --> 00:20:26,138 in a system of international trade that is largely dysfunctional, 363 00:20:26,305 --> 00:20:29,183 where workers and farmers 364 00:20:29,349 --> 00:20:31,977 They do not receive a living wage, 365 00:20:32,144 --> 00:20:35,355 and where the environment is not considered at all 366 00:20:35,522 --> 00:20:37,482 to make the products we buy every day. 367 00:20:37,649 --> 00:20:40,360 Dacca, Bangladesh 368 00:20:52,581 --> 00:20:54,124 My name is Shima. 369 00:20:54,291 --> 00:20:56,835 I am 23 years old. 370 00:20:57,002 --> 00:21:00,589 When I came to Dhaka, I was twelve. 371 00:21:06,970 --> 00:21:08,472 Shima is one of the 372 00:21:08,639 --> 00:21:11,433 40 million workers in textile factories in the world. 373 00:21:11,600 --> 00:21:14,311 Nearly 4 million of those workers are here in Bangladesh, 374 00:21:14,478 --> 00:21:16,730 working in almost five thousand factories, 375 00:21:16,897 --> 00:21:19,149 making clothes for major Western brands. 376 00:21:21,401 --> 00:21:23,570 Over 85% of these workers are women. 377 00:21:23,904 --> 00:21:26,740 And with a minimum wage of less than $ 3 a day, 378 00:21:26,907 --> 00:21:29,785 They are among the lowest paid in the world textile workers. 379 00:21:29,952 --> 00:21:34,498 When I came to Dhaka, I stayed with my aunt. 380 00:21:34,665 --> 00:21:36,834 When I started working in a garment factory, 381 00:21:37,000 --> 00:21:38,418 my salary was $ 10 a month. 382 00:21:59,565 --> 00:22:01,108 How is it called? 383 00:22:01,275 --> 00:22:03,861 ¿Mi hija? Nadia Akhter 384 00:22:10,158 --> 00:22:12,369 I take with me to the factory a few days 385 00:22:12,536 --> 00:22:14,371 but it is terribly hot in the factory. 386 00:22:14,538 --> 00:22:18,375 And there are chemicals inside the factory 387 00:22:18,584 --> 00:22:23,130 which they are very harmful to children. 388 00:22:23,422 --> 00:22:25,966 So I can not have you here with me in Dhaka 389 00:22:26,133 --> 00:22:29,052 because I have no one to look after her. 390 00:22:36,268 --> 00:22:41,356 Workers should not have any kind of distrust 391 00:22:41,523 --> 00:22:43,275 of their owners. 392 00:22:43,650 --> 00:22:45,360 If they do, 393 00:22:46,069 --> 00:22:50,824 there will be a good working environment at the factory. 394 00:22:51,283 --> 00:22:56,538 Must respect, the owner pays us according to the rules. 395 00:22:57,873 --> 00:22:59,875 If you do not have this kind of confidence, 396 00:23:00,042 --> 00:23:01,710 You will not get the result. 397 00:23:02,669 --> 00:23:05,047 I have formed a union at work. 398 00:23:05,214 --> 00:23:08,634 I have been the president of the union since its formation. 399 00:23:08,800 --> 00:23:13,972 We present a list of demands and principals received it. 400 00:23:14,139 --> 00:23:18,477 Then they received the list, had an altercation with the directors. 401 00:23:18,644 --> 00:23:23,148 After the altercation, managers closed the door. 402 00:23:23,315 --> 00:23:27,736 And along with them, 30-40 employees attacked us 403 00:23:27,903 --> 00:23:29,821 and they beat us. 404 00:23:29,988 --> 00:23:33,492 They used chairs, sticks, scales 405 00:23:33,659 --> 00:23:37,538 and things like scissors to beat. 406 00:23:37,704 --> 00:23:41,708 Especially they kicked and punched 407 00:23:41,875 --> 00:23:45,921 and they beat his head against the walls. 408 00:23:46,088 --> 00:23:49,258 They beat us especially 409 00:23:49,424 --> 00:23:53,679 chest and abdomen. 410 00:23:56,557 --> 00:23:59,184 It is estimated that one in six people alive 411 00:23:59,351 --> 00:24:00,435 in the world today, 412 00:24:00,602 --> 00:24:03,355 working on some of the world's fashion industry, 413 00:24:03,605 --> 00:24:06,817 so it is more dependent on the world labor sector. 414 00:24:07,401 --> 00:24:11,196 Most of this work is done by people like Shima, voiceless 415 00:24:11,363 --> 00:24:13,240 in the wider supply chain. 416 00:24:13,490 --> 00:24:15,325 But to better understand the impact 417 00:24:15,492 --> 00:24:16,869 that fashion has in the world, 418 00:24:17,035 --> 00:24:19,705 we must return to where it all begins. 419 00:24:24,585 --> 00:24:27,546 My grandparents came here in the 20s, 420 00:24:27,713 --> 00:24:29,089 and this is part of my heritage. 421 00:24:29,256 --> 00:24:31,258 I wonder why organic cotton growing, 422 00:24:31,425 --> 00:24:32,634 because I can not do otherwise. 423 00:24:32,801 --> 00:24:34,511 My grandfather was an old German farmer 424 00:24:34,678 --> 00:24:36,471 I thought that we should respect the earth, 425 00:24:36,638 --> 00:24:37,931 We are stewards of the earth, 426 00:24:38,098 --> 00:24:39,808 and respect the life on earth. 427 00:24:42,144 --> 00:24:45,230 We're actually sitting in the High Plains of Texas 428 00:24:45,480 --> 00:24:49,276 and there are 1.2 million hectares of cotton growing in this region. 429 00:24:49,484 --> 00:24:52,070 It is literally the largest plot of cotton in the world. 430 00:24:52,446 --> 00:24:56,283 Only in the last ten years, 80% is now GM cotton, 431 00:24:56,450 --> 00:24:58,327 genetically modified. 432 00:24:58,577 --> 00:25:01,121 Most is Roundup Ready, 433 00:25:01,288 --> 00:25:04,958 meaning that farmers instead of spraying weeds, 434 00:25:05,125 --> 00:25:06,376 occasionally in their field, 435 00:25:06,543 --> 00:25:09,755 or hire laborers to go for the field by removing weeds, 436 00:25:09,922 --> 00:25:12,966 They are now spraying entire fields. 437 00:25:13,175 --> 00:25:14,676 The cotton fiber is 438 00:25:14,843 --> 00:25:16,345 from which most of the clothes are made 439 00:25:16,512 --> 00:25:17,888 used by the world today. 440 00:25:18,055 --> 00:25:20,015 And while growing our appetite for fashion, 441 00:25:20,182 --> 00:25:23,227 cotton plant itself is redesigned to keep pace. 442 00:25:23,519 --> 00:25:25,187 There has been this big push 443 00:25:25,354 --> 00:25:27,814 towards industrialization of agriculture, 444 00:25:27,981 --> 00:25:30,025 the intensification of agriculture. 445 00:25:30,192 --> 00:25:32,528 So instead of old crop types 446 00:25:32,694 --> 00:25:35,072 they were very in tune with nature, 447 00:25:35,239 --> 00:25:37,115 They were related to the cycles 448 00:25:37,282 --> 00:25:39,868 the calendar year, and seasons. 449 00:25:40,035 --> 00:25:41,828 What you see now is a stepping 450 00:25:41,995 --> 00:25:44,581 where land is almost reconsidered 451 00:25:44,748 --> 00:25:45,788 like a factory. 452 00:25:47,292 --> 00:25:50,379 What has been created is the general practice 453 00:25:50,546 --> 00:25:54,591 of "we are trying million hectares alike." 454 00:25:54,758 --> 00:25:57,761 We put a dose of chemical especially 455 00:25:57,928 --> 00:26:01,390 and that's when these great ecological effects are obtained 456 00:26:01,723 --> 00:26:04,935 and nobody has any idea what is really happening. 457 00:26:05,811 --> 00:26:09,940 Nature tends to heal in small areas. 458 00:26:10,691 --> 00:26:14,444 But when there is this large and comprehensive approach, 459 00:26:16,238 --> 00:26:18,365 We do not really know what's going on. 460 00:26:18,574 --> 00:26:21,618 For us, it does not reduce the amount of pesticides, 461 00:26:21,785 --> 00:26:23,537 and chemicals that are cotton, 462 00:26:23,704 --> 00:26:25,539 that's one of the advantages that reduces that. 463 00:26:25,706 --> 00:26:28,292 Not in our area, where we are fumigating 464 00:26:28,458 --> 00:26:32,004 millions of acres and dollars Roundup, 465 00:26:32,171 --> 00:26:34,047 by all South Plains. 466 00:26:34,214 --> 00:26:36,675 What kind of impact does that have on our soil, 467 00:26:36,925 --> 00:26:40,721 with residues left to microbacterial level? 468 00:26:40,888 --> 00:26:42,222 What kind of impact does that 469 00:26:42,389 --> 00:26:44,266 about people in our communities? 470 00:26:44,433 --> 00:26:46,518 Where is the cost of that? 471 00:26:49,980 --> 00:26:52,608 Monsanto is proud to be a leader 472 00:26:52,774 --> 00:26:54,318 of agricultural innovation sector 473 00:26:54,484 --> 00:26:57,237 so these agricultural developments can do to help 474 00:26:57,404 --> 00:27:00,282 double the performance for future needs in the world. 475 00:27:00,449 --> 00:27:02,993 We are dedicated to the future of agriculture, 476 00:27:03,160 --> 00:27:05,245 and delivering innovations to farmers 477 00:27:05,412 --> 00:27:08,290 to help them produce more and conserve more, 478 00:27:08,457 --> 00:27:11,502 while they are improving the lives of people around the world. 479 00:27:11,668 --> 00:27:14,004 Together, we can face the challenges 480 00:27:14,171 --> 00:27:15,547 Next Generation 481 00:27:17,049 --> 00:27:18,550 and beyond. 482 00:27:29,394 --> 00:27:30,646 After the wars, 483 00:27:30,812 --> 00:27:32,648 where all these old factories 484 00:27:32,814 --> 00:27:37,945 that made war chemicals, explosives, were scattered about, 485 00:27:38,111 --> 00:27:40,405 Activist Vandana Shiva Environment 486 00:27:40,572 --> 00:27:44,326 Western countries thought it would be a good idea 487 00:27:44,493 --> 00:27:46,411 commercialize the Third World, 488 00:27:46,578 --> 00:27:49,289 after all, it makes explosives industry 489 00:27:49,456 --> 00:27:51,333 It makes nitrogen fertilizers. 490 00:27:51,750 --> 00:27:54,294 And they began to introduce nitrogen fertilizers, 491 00:27:54,753 --> 00:27:58,298 from the 50s onwards, after we became independent. 492 00:27:58,465 --> 00:28:01,635 But nitrogen fertilizer 493 00:28:01,802 --> 00:28:05,138 They do not work well with indigenous crops. 494 00:28:05,305 --> 00:28:07,432 There is a problem of lodging. 495 00:28:07,599 --> 00:28:10,602 So the whole system then organized 496 00:28:10,769 --> 00:28:12,604 to redesign the plant 497 00:28:12,771 --> 00:28:15,357 to accept more chemicals. 498 00:28:15,524 --> 00:28:19,653 Bt cotton is cotton which has been added a gene, 499 00:28:19,820 --> 00:28:22,948 of a bacteria to produce a toxin. 500 00:28:23,156 --> 00:28:24,658 But Bt cotton, 501 00:28:25,909 --> 00:28:27,703 which it is supposed to control a pest, 502 00:28:28,370 --> 00:28:33,959 It has been offered because it is a way of making companies own the seed. 503 00:28:34,126 --> 00:28:37,004 By patenting these genetically modified plants 504 00:28:37,171 --> 00:28:41,466 Monsanto became the largest chemical and seed group in history. 505 00:28:41,717 --> 00:28:44,595 I wanted to talk to someone who had worked with the company, 506 00:28:44,761 --> 00:28:47,097 and I found out that a former director general of India 507 00:28:47,264 --> 00:28:48,432 he was willing to talk. 508 00:28:48,599 --> 00:28:51,351 One of my friends who worked in research, 509 00:28:51,518 --> 00:28:53,562 He is working on these modified crops, 510 00:28:54,188 --> 00:28:56,273 He came to my hotel for a drink. 511 00:28:57,691 --> 00:29:00,652 We sat for a drink, and after a few drinks, he said: 512 00:29:00,819 --> 00:29:03,989 "Hey, Jag, will change the type of business 513 00:29:04,156 --> 00:29:05,824 you're doing in India. " 514 00:29:06,617 --> 00:29:08,202 I said, "What do you mean?" 515 00:29:08,368 --> 00:29:10,579 "They will get into the seed business. 516 00:29:11,038 --> 00:29:15,334 And they will do the business of seeds of all crops, 517 00:29:15,501 --> 00:29:18,253 so that we have a monopoly on the seeds, 518 00:29:18,754 --> 00:29:22,674 and every farmer has to always come to us to buy seeds. " 519 00:29:24,343 --> 00:29:26,345 That set off alarm bells in my mind. 520 00:29:27,054 --> 00:29:31,099 If a poor farmer has to go to buy Monsanto seeds each time, 521 00:29:31,892 --> 00:29:34,353 and a so expensive seeds, 522 00:29:34,728 --> 00:29:37,189 at that time I had no idea whatsoever Bt. 523 00:29:37,356 --> 00:29:39,637 Genetically modified seed, I had not thought of that. 524 00:29:40,609 --> 00:29:44,029 Even a monopoly on seeds is very bad. 525 00:29:44,613 --> 00:29:47,074 So farmers into debt to get the seed 526 00:29:47,241 --> 00:29:50,369 because of the high cost, 17 000 percent more. 527 00:29:50,536 --> 00:29:54,081 It is further into debt, because it violates the promise 528 00:29:54,248 --> 00:29:57,501 to control pests, so they have to buy more pesticides. 529 00:29:57,918 --> 00:30:01,588 The tragedy with chemicals, whether fertilizers or pesticides, 530 00:30:01,755 --> 00:30:05,259 It is that they are what is called ecological narcotics: 531 00:30:05,425 --> 00:30:07,803 the more you use, the more you need to use them. 532 00:30:07,970 --> 00:30:10,347 For a time, picking unique product increases 533 00:30:10,514 --> 00:30:11,640 and then begins to fall 534 00:30:11,807 --> 00:30:14,977 because it has contaminated the ground. 535 00:30:16,520 --> 00:30:21,900 PUNYAB, INDIA 536 00:30:22,067 --> 00:30:25,153 Most Indian cotton is grown in the Punjab, 537 00:30:25,320 --> 00:30:29,032 it has quickly become the largest user of pesticides in India. 538 00:30:30,242 --> 00:30:32,411 Dr. Pritpal Singh has studied the effects 539 00:30:32,578 --> 00:30:34,454 chemicals on human health 540 00:30:34,621 --> 00:30:38,166 and reports show a large increase in the number of birth defects, 541 00:30:38,333 --> 00:30:41,420 cancers and mental illnesses here in the region. 542 00:30:42,838 --> 00:30:44,673 You can go to each village 543 00:30:44,840 --> 00:30:50,429 you will see hundreds of patients suffering from cancer. 544 00:30:50,596 --> 00:30:53,348 70 to 80 children in each village 545 00:30:53,515 --> 00:30:55,767 you will find that suffering 546 00:30:55,934 --> 00:30:58,437 severe mental retardation and physical disabilities. 547 00:31:13,285 --> 00:31:15,245 Companies of fertilizers, pesticides, 548 00:31:15,412 --> 00:31:17,497 totally reject 549 00:31:17,664 --> 00:31:20,292 the aftermath of pesticides and fertilizers, 550 00:31:20,459 --> 00:31:25,214 and these are the classic symptoms of toxicity. 551 00:31:25,380 --> 00:31:29,968 In a village, there are 60 children with mental retardation as this guy. 552 00:31:30,135 --> 00:31:36,433 So it's a very dangerous phenomenon in the Punjab. 553 00:31:37,267 --> 00:31:41,897 And poor people, peasants, workers, and small farmers 554 00:31:42,064 --> 00:31:45,776 They have reached their full potential so they can not afford treatment. 555 00:31:45,943 --> 00:31:49,988 In short, they have accepted the death of their children. 556 00:31:50,364 --> 00:31:52,491 And they are waiting for the deaths of their children, 557 00:31:52,658 --> 00:31:55,244 Mother is waiting for the death of this boy. 558 00:31:56,161 --> 00:32:00,165 Companies that make GM seeds and chemicals 559 00:32:00,332 --> 00:32:01,667 They are the same companies. 560 00:32:01,834 --> 00:32:04,545 They are also the same companies that make drugs 561 00:32:04,711 --> 00:32:05,921 they are now patenting. 562 00:32:06,088 --> 00:32:08,423 So you have cancer, there are more benefits. 563 00:32:08,590 --> 00:32:10,425 For them is to win, win, win ... 564 00:32:10,592 --> 00:32:13,804 For nature and people, it's lose, lose, lose ... 565 00:32:14,221 --> 00:32:16,849 It is the day in which agents of these companies 566 00:32:17,015 --> 00:32:18,892 They approach the farmer and tell him: 567 00:32:19,059 --> 00:32:21,937 "He owes me so much. He has not paid me. 568 00:32:22,104 --> 00:32:23,897 Now their land is my land. " 569 00:32:24,064 --> 00:32:26,859 That day the farmer going to his farm, 570 00:32:27,150 --> 00:32:29,611 pesticide bottle of drink, 571 00:32:29,778 --> 00:32:30,778 and end his life. 572 00:32:30,904 --> 00:32:32,739 All the widows I speak, saying: 573 00:32:32,906 --> 00:32:34,283 "And the neighbors came and said 574 00:32:34,449 --> 00:32:36,785 that my husband lying on the field were found ". 575 00:32:38,662 --> 00:32:40,289 In the last 16 years, 576 00:32:40,455 --> 00:32:42,708 there have been more than 250 000 577 00:32:42,875 --> 00:32:45,836 Farmer suicides in India. 578 00:32:46,712 --> 00:32:49,464 That's about a farmer every 30 minutes. 579 00:32:49,631 --> 00:32:53,427 It is the largest wave of suicides that is registered in history. 580 00:33:00,142 --> 00:33:02,477 As the huge impact is evident 581 00:33:02,644 --> 00:33:04,229 which it is fashion in our world, 582 00:33:04,396 --> 00:33:06,023 there is growing research 583 00:33:06,190 --> 00:33:09,484 suggesting that also has an increasing effect on us, 584 00:33:09,651 --> 00:33:11,361 people who buy these clothes. 585 00:33:11,820 --> 00:33:13,989 What we now know, 20 years later 586 00:33:14,156 --> 00:33:15,908 and hundreds of studies later, 587 00:33:16,074 --> 00:33:17,743 It is that the more people focus 588 00:33:17,910 --> 00:33:19,494 in these materialistic values, 589 00:33:19,661 --> 00:33:22,497 the more you say that money and image, 590 00:33:22,664 --> 00:33:26,001 and its status and possessions are important to them, 591 00:33:26,168 --> 00:33:27,211 the less happy they are, 592 00:33:27,377 --> 00:33:30,506 are more depressed, more anxious they are. 593 00:33:30,672 --> 00:33:33,675 We know that all these types of psychological problems 594 00:33:33,842 --> 00:33:37,387 They tend to increase when increasing materialistic values. 595 00:33:37,554 --> 00:33:41,934 Now, that is in total disagreement with the thousands of messages 596 00:33:42,100 --> 00:33:45,854 we receive daily from ads 597 00:33:46,021 --> 00:33:49,441 suggesting that materialism and the pursuit of possessions 598 00:33:49,608 --> 00:33:52,027 and owning things is what will make us happy. 599 00:33:52,402 --> 00:33:56,240 It is important to understand that advertising is a kind, 600 00:33:56,406 --> 00:33:58,325 or category of propaganda. 601 00:33:58,867 --> 00:34:03,497 You think of it as something totalitarian propaganda, very shady, 602 00:34:03,789 --> 00:34:07,334 speakers, crowds chanting and all that, 603 00:34:07,501 --> 00:34:08,669 and we think of Hitler. 604 00:34:08,836 --> 00:34:11,547 We always think of it as something foreign 605 00:34:11,713 --> 00:34:13,799 but it is as American as apple pie. 606 00:34:17,886 --> 00:34:20,931 Well, advertising works because 607 00:34:21,098 --> 00:34:22,975 smart advertisers at least 608 00:34:23,141 --> 00:34:26,812 They are trying to link the consumption of its product 609 00:34:26,979 --> 00:34:30,440 a message that suggests 610 00:34:30,607 --> 00:34:32,985 that their needs will be met 611 00:34:33,151 --> 00:34:35,279 eating this thing. 612 00:34:35,445 --> 00:34:36,905 He wants you to believe 613 00:34:37,072 --> 00:34:39,449 it will look wonderful with that position. 614 00:34:39,616 --> 00:34:41,243 But then he puts it, and feels like: 615 00:34:41,410 --> 00:34:43,829 "No, it looks a little fat with it, is not so well with that, 616 00:34:43,996 --> 00:34:46,456 I regret having bought it, but there's another you can buy. " 617 00:34:49,793 --> 00:34:50,793 Put it NOW 618 00:34:50,836 --> 00:34:52,296 BUY NOW 619 00:35:15,527 --> 00:35:19,406 Think of all the car ads you see that show: 620 00:35:19,573 --> 00:35:22,492 "Well, finally I got it, I'm a competent person 621 00:35:22,659 --> 00:35:26,038 because I drive this BMW or the Audi ". 622 00:35:26,205 --> 00:35:28,832 Or think of all this shampoo that has seen, 623 00:35:28,999 --> 00:35:32,377 where the person now has beautiful hair 624 00:35:32,544 --> 00:35:35,631 and it is loved and appreciated by the people around her. 625 00:35:35,797 --> 00:35:37,674 The basic message is the same: 626 00:35:37,841 --> 00:35:40,427 how to solve the problems of his life, 627 00:35:40,594 --> 00:35:42,304 all have problems in our lives, 628 00:35:42,471 --> 00:35:45,682 how to solve the problems of your life is through consumption. 629 00:35:45,933 --> 00:35:46,934 Hi guys! 630 00:35:47,100 --> 00:35:49,895 Today I bring you lots of clothes! 631 00:35:50,062 --> 00:35:53,607 I went shopping a couple of days ago and literally went crazy 632 00:35:53,774 --> 00:35:55,609 and I bought a lot of things. 633 00:35:55,776 --> 00:35:59,196 My mailbox spam, you know, has literally exploded, 634 00:35:59,363 --> 00:36:01,615 because you want a lot of clothes. 635 00:36:01,782 --> 00:36:03,575 So here it is. 636 00:36:03,742 --> 00:36:07,371 Agree. First, I have some things I bought at H & M. 637 00:36:07,538 --> 00:36:09,623 Then I went to Forever 21 ... 638 00:36:09,790 --> 00:36:12,918 No doubt about it, it was fate, I had to buy it, 639 00:36:13,085 --> 00:36:15,963 if I could levitate to me, I would have levitated. 640 00:36:16,129 --> 00:36:17,506 I bought this skirt, **Like, Share and Follow our Instagram @Layarkaca21indo.id for Support** 641 00:36:18,632 --> 00:36:22,302 bright yellow, and cost $ 8.50. 642 00:36:22,469 --> 00:36:25,430 He is denim with buttons ... 643 00:36:25,597 --> 00:36:28,517 and I just loved it. Loved, loved, loved it! 644 00:36:28,684 --> 00:36:31,478 It is a gray knitted sweater, full of pink hearts. 645 00:36:31,645 --> 00:36:34,106 I loved it. I love the stained clothes. 646 00:36:34,273 --> 00:36:36,483 The garments are dyed tops. 647 00:36:36,650 --> 00:36:39,027 Has a little yin yang in the front. 648 00:36:39,194 --> 00:36:40,487 I love these so much. 649 00:36:40,654 --> 00:36:44,324 And it is this very beautiful light blue sweater. 650 00:36:44,491 --> 00:36:46,493 Not even know if I'll use it, now that I have, 651 00:36:46,660 --> 00:36:47,860 because they do not know if I like both. 652 00:36:47,870 --> 00:36:49,913 I have to stop. 653 00:36:50,873 --> 00:36:54,168 MILAN, ITALY 654 00:36:56,003 --> 00:36:57,421 Try to understand better 655 00:36:57,588 --> 00:37:01,425 why people do not realize that they are becoming increasingly poor. 656 00:37:01,592 --> 00:37:04,011 And I wonder, "Well, but 657 00:37:04,178 --> 00:37:06,555 What has changed from when I was young? " 658 00:37:06,722 --> 00:37:09,766 And fashion is something that has changed dramatically. 659 00:37:09,933 --> 00:37:12,644 You could buy one, two shirts, 660 00:37:12,811 --> 00:37:14,771 four T-shirts, for example, a year. 661 00:37:14,938 --> 00:37:17,900 Now, also my children, they used to buy, 662 00:37:18,066 --> 00:37:20,152 for each party, buy a shirt. 663 00:37:20,319 --> 00:37:24,656 And so I realized that fast fashion is something totally new. 664 00:37:24,823 --> 00:37:29,119 If you have noticed the price has fallen in recent years. 665 00:37:29,286 --> 00:37:33,498 And following the disappearance of the middle class. 666 00:37:33,707 --> 00:37:36,335 So all you people really need 667 00:37:36,502 --> 00:37:38,295 It is very expensive, 668 00:37:38,462 --> 00:37:43,008 like a home, as studies such as life insurance. 669 00:37:43,467 --> 00:37:47,179 Moreover, there is a source of comfort 670 00:37:48,430 --> 00:37:50,015 part of his life. 671 00:37:50,182 --> 00:37:53,852 They can buy a T-shirt, 672 00:37:54,019 --> 00:37:57,105 two shirts for holidays, or finally by day, 673 00:37:58,023 --> 00:38:00,359 although I am very poor and I'm lost. 674 00:38:00,526 --> 00:38:02,778 I lost everything I really needed. 675 00:38:03,195 --> 00:38:04,988 Today we buy more than 80 billion 676 00:38:05,155 --> 00:38:06,990 of wearing new clothes every year. 677 00:38:07,157 --> 00:38:11,370 That's 400% more than the amount they bought just two decades ago. 678 00:38:11,537 --> 00:38:14,414 The way we buy clothes has changed so much, so fast 679 00:38:14,581 --> 00:38:16,625 few people actually stopped to 680 00:38:16,792 --> 00:38:19,586 understand the origin of this new model, or consequences 681 00:38:19,753 --> 00:38:22,840 such unprecedented increase in consumption. 682 00:38:23,006 --> 00:38:26,718 There is an article in Printers' Ink 683 00:38:27,094 --> 00:38:31,098 which is currently the leader in magazine advertising, 684 00:38:31,640 --> 00:38:35,686 a famous writer, called Earnest Elmo Calkins, 685 00:38:35,853 --> 00:38:39,857 he was a great master of the art of copywriting. 686 00:38:40,190 --> 00:38:42,526 It was an article titled "Consumption". 687 00:38:43,735 --> 00:38:47,781 In that article, he says there are two kinds of products. 688 00:38:48,824 --> 00:38:51,410 The class to use, 689 00:38:52,119 --> 00:38:54,872 as washing machines, cars and so on, 690 00:38:55,122 --> 00:38:58,458 the things you buy and use for a long time. 691 00:38:59,376 --> 00:39:01,712 And then there are the things you consume, 692 00:39:02,296 --> 00:39:05,382 as chewing gum, cigarette, and other perishables. 693 00:39:05,924 --> 00:39:09,887 He said that consumerism is getting people 694 00:39:10,053 --> 00:39:12,347 try the things you use, 695 00:39:12,848 --> 00:39:14,683 as things you eat. 696 00:39:14,933 --> 00:39:17,811 With its innovative offer Buy 1, Take 3 Free, 697 00:39:17,978 --> 00:39:19,396 un traje de Jos. A. Bank 698 00:39:19,563 --> 00:39:21,982 It is actually cheaper than paper towels. 699 00:39:22,733 --> 00:39:25,611 And now come these dispensers easy to use. 700 00:39:26,904 --> 00:39:30,032 Four suits for the price of a modest dinner, 701 00:39:30,199 --> 00:39:33,035 I feel good to throw them away when finished. 702 00:39:36,830 --> 00:39:38,707 Just look landfills 703 00:39:38,874 --> 00:39:40,375 and you can see in landfills 704 00:39:40,542 --> 00:39:43,212 that the amount of clothing and textiles that are thrown away, 705 00:39:43,378 --> 00:39:46,548 It has been increasing steadily in the last ten years, 706 00:39:46,715 --> 00:39:49,885 like a dirty shade of the fast fashion industry. 707 00:39:53,180 --> 00:39:56,016 As we move more and more 708 00:39:56,183 --> 00:39:57,935 degradation species, 709 00:39:58,101 --> 00:40:02,189 to destroy the last pristine wilderness we have left, 710 00:40:02,356 --> 00:40:05,776 We seem bent on producing more and more disposable things. 711 00:40:05,943 --> 00:40:07,361 It makes no sense. 712 00:40:07,528 --> 00:40:10,656 Fashion should never and can never be considered 713 00:40:10,822 --> 00:40:12,324 as a disposable product. 714 00:40:12,699 --> 00:40:15,494 After a big change in any sector, 715 00:40:15,661 --> 00:40:18,830 it takes time to feel and smell 716 00:40:18,997 --> 00:40:22,668 dirt coming out of something that is polluting. 717 00:40:22,876 --> 00:40:25,170 So I think there is now a change 718 00:40:25,337 --> 00:40:28,549 because you can not deny 719 00:40:29,049 --> 00:40:30,801 industry Fast Fashion 720 00:40:30,968 --> 00:40:33,554 It has a massive impact on developing countries. 721 00:40:34,054 --> 00:40:36,557 The average American takes 37 kilos 722 00:40:36,723 --> 00:40:38,934 you textile waste each year. 723 00:40:39,101 --> 00:40:42,187 Adding up to more than 11 million tons of textile waste 724 00:40:42,354 --> 00:40:43,981 the EE. UU. only. 725 00:40:44,189 --> 00:40:46,650 Most of these wastes are not biodegradable. 726 00:40:46,817 --> 00:40:49,611 Meaning it stays in landfills 200 years or more, 727 00:40:49,778 --> 00:40:52,489 air while emitting harmful gases. 728 00:40:52,865 --> 00:40:55,868 The large amount of cheap clothes, 729 00:40:56,118 --> 00:40:59,746 although people feel, perhaps somehow, 730 00:41:00,497 --> 00:41:02,875 compensating to donate to charities. 731 00:41:03,208 --> 00:41:06,670 The journey of a shirt donated to charities 732 00:41:06,837 --> 00:41:08,839 It is difficult to accept in itself. 733 00:41:11,967 --> 00:41:12,967 PORT AU PRINCE, HAITI 734 00:41:13,093 --> 00:41:16,096 Pepe is a disease in Haiti. 735 00:41:16,388 --> 00:41:18,223 Not only in Haiti, I think in any 736 00:41:18,390 --> 00:41:20,601 third world country you visit. 737 00:41:20,767 --> 00:41:23,478 It is a problem, it's a huge problem. 738 00:41:24,104 --> 00:41:26,690 Pepe is a lot of clothes, 739 00:41:26,857 --> 00:41:30,027 mostly from the United States, 740 00:41:30,819 --> 00:41:33,363 People will buy a box of clothes ... 741 00:41:33,530 --> 00:41:35,532 They do not even know what they are buying. 742 00:41:35,741 --> 00:41:39,203 It's clothes that people donate to charities, 743 00:41:39,536 --> 00:41:43,749 and these can not sell in their thrift store or whatever, 744 00:41:43,916 --> 00:41:47,961 the packed and shipped to these third countries 745 00:41:48,128 --> 00:41:49,880 and most end here. 746 00:41:50,047 --> 00:41:51,632 It turns out that only 10 percent 747 00:41:51,798 --> 00:41:52,966 We donate clothes 748 00:41:53,133 --> 00:41:55,385 gets sold in thrift stores. 749 00:41:55,761 --> 00:41:58,013 And as we let our clothes faster and faster, 750 00:41:58,180 --> 00:42:00,974 now increasingly discarded in developing countries, 751 00:42:01,141 --> 00:42:02,267 as Haiti. 752 00:42:02,601 --> 00:42:04,019 As the second-hand clothes 753 00:42:04,186 --> 00:42:06,063 into Haiti has increased, 754 00:42:06,230 --> 00:42:08,857 the local textile industry has disappeared. 755 00:42:09,441 --> 00:42:11,693 What once was a sector proudest making garments, 756 00:42:11,860 --> 00:42:14,446 Haiti now produces mainly cheap shirts 757 00:42:14,613 --> 00:42:16,448 to be exported to the United States. 758 00:42:16,907 --> 00:42:20,661 Because earlier when you were working 759 00:42:20,827 --> 00:42:24,414 used to see people coming to learn to sew. 760 00:42:24,581 --> 00:42:28,168 The person could come to learn, and asked me to teach them to sew. 761 00:42:28,335 --> 00:42:29,920 Then he taught them. 762 00:42:30,087 --> 00:42:33,215 And they learned to sew, 763 00:42:33,382 --> 00:42:35,676 You knew they would find a job with that ability. 764 00:42:35,843 --> 00:42:39,805 However, today, the person can learn to sew 765 00:42:39,972 --> 00:42:42,891 but you can not find work or make a living doing that. 766 00:42:46,103 --> 00:42:49,189 I tell people to stop buying things, 767 00:42:49,356 --> 00:42:52,442 that's not right, costs about $ 10, 768 00:42:52,609 --> 00:42:54,987 vas a ir a un baile, 769 00:42:55,153 --> 00:42:57,197 are you going out today. Just you go to a store 770 00:42:57,364 --> 00:42:59,283 and you buy a dress for $ 10. 771 00:42:59,449 --> 00:43:02,077 Because it costs only $ 10, and I can throw it away. 772 00:43:02,244 --> 00:43:03,996 And tomorrow you will do the same, 773 00:43:04,162 --> 00:43:06,123 and again. 774 00:43:08,041 --> 00:43:11,003 While growing awareness of the impact of fashion in the world, 775 00:43:11,170 --> 00:43:13,630 there are key industry leaders who begin to question 776 00:43:13,797 --> 00:43:16,800 the impacts of a model based on production inconsiderate 777 00:43:16,967 --> 00:43:18,510 and endless consumption. 778 00:43:18,677 --> 00:43:22,764 In Patagonia, we hate the word "consumers". 779 00:43:24,224 --> 00:43:27,644 We have to find a better word, we prefer "customers" 780 00:43:27,811 --> 00:43:31,273 and we prefer clients who recognize 781 00:43:31,440 --> 00:43:33,609 the impact of their consumption. 782 00:43:33,775 --> 00:43:38,739 They recognize that, as consumers, are part of the problem. 783 00:43:39,239 --> 00:43:43,785 We hope to encourage our customers to join 784 00:43:43,952 --> 00:43:46,330 to us for questioning consumption. 785 00:43:46,496 --> 00:43:48,540 Because without a reduction in consumption, 786 00:43:48,707 --> 00:43:52,336 we believe that we will not find a collective solution 787 00:43:52,503 --> 00:43:57,549 to the problems we face collectively, year after year, 788 00:43:58,175 --> 00:44:01,887 They are leading to continued deterioration in the health of our planet. 789 00:44:03,597 --> 00:44:05,933 The fashion industry has to think. 790 00:44:06,350 --> 00:44:10,145 You have to stand and watch has been running 791 00:44:10,312 --> 00:44:13,649 in a conventional manner, and to question, challenge him. 792 00:44:13,941 --> 00:44:15,234 For me it is, as a designer, 793 00:44:15,400 --> 00:44:18,028 the most exciting thing I do now. 794 00:44:18,195 --> 00:44:20,989 More exciting to say: "I like this color this season" 795 00:44:21,156 --> 00:44:23,909 or "This is the silhouette, or the hemline." 796 00:44:24,076 --> 00:44:27,329 For me, a much greater challenge and excitement 797 00:44:27,496 --> 00:44:29,790 is actually looking at my industry and say, "You know what? 798 00:44:29,957 --> 00:44:31,375 I will try to do it in a way 799 00:44:31,542 --> 00:44:34,002 it is not as harmful to the planet. " 800 00:44:35,003 --> 00:44:40,300 The companies, through advertising, have made society believe 801 00:44:40,467 --> 00:44:45,097 that happiness is based on things, 802 00:44:45,264 --> 00:44:47,683 that true happiness can only be achieved 803 00:44:47,850 --> 00:44:53,146 with annual, seasonal, weekly gain, daily 804 00:44:53,313 --> 00:44:55,649 in the amount of things that you take your life. 805 00:44:55,816 --> 00:44:58,569 We encourage our customers 806 00:44:58,735 --> 00:45:00,904 to rethink those assumptions, 807 00:45:01,071 --> 00:45:03,532 to understand where they come from. 808 00:45:03,699 --> 00:45:07,077 And to understand it, to know it all together 809 00:45:07,244 --> 00:45:08,495 we can change how. 810 00:45:08,662 --> 00:45:11,540 The customer has to know who is responsible. 811 00:45:11,707 --> 00:45:13,625 Without them, we have no jobs. 812 00:45:13,792 --> 00:45:15,127 And that's really important. 813 00:45:15,294 --> 00:45:17,171 So you do not have to accept it. 814 00:45:17,337 --> 00:45:19,381 If you do not like, you do not have to accept it. 815 00:45:19,965 --> 00:45:22,134 Rajshahi, Bangladesh 816 00:45:23,010 --> 00:45:25,179 I love embroidery, Shantu. 817 00:45:28,015 --> 00:45:29,266 The embroidery is very beautiful. 818 00:45:29,433 --> 00:45:31,894 Do you think we should not put the embroidery on both sides? 819 00:45:32,060 --> 00:45:35,230 I think we should put the embroidery here too. 820 00:45:35,731 --> 00:45:38,400 I think it looks a bit simple if only forward. 821 00:45:38,567 --> 00:45:40,944 So let's put it on the sides as well. 822 00:45:41,778 --> 00:45:43,030 It will not add much cost. 823 00:45:43,197 --> 00:45:44,865 It is not as dense, right? 824 00:45:45,032 --> 00:45:46,950 How about? 825 00:45:50,245 --> 00:45:53,248 Swallows is a fashion company fair trade 826 00:45:53,415 --> 00:45:56,043 but it is also a development partnership. 827 00:45:56,210 --> 00:46:00,214 So it is helping more than 3,000 people in this town. 828 00:46:02,049 --> 00:46:03,634 I come here every four months. 829 00:46:03,800 --> 00:46:05,677 We call them "journeys of production." 830 00:46:05,844 --> 00:46:08,180 And we work with manufacturers, 831 00:46:08,347 --> 00:46:10,349 trying to figure out what the barriers are 832 00:46:10,516 --> 00:46:13,852 to make a great product and make it to market. 833 00:46:14,019 --> 00:46:16,605 And we encourage fair trade capabilities. 834 00:46:16,772 --> 00:46:19,316 So what are the obstacles facing 835 00:46:19,483 --> 00:46:21,568 to provide more social benefits 836 00:46:21,735 --> 00:46:25,864 or improve environmental protection in these areas. 837 00:46:26,031 --> 00:46:27,950 For me, it's partnering. 838 00:46:28,116 --> 00:46:29,993 It's about finding creative solutions, 839 00:46:30,160 --> 00:46:32,621 next to them, with the team here, 840 00:46:32,788 --> 00:46:34,790 and really listen to what their problems 841 00:46:34,957 --> 00:46:37,376 and find together the way they actually work. 842 00:46:47,427 --> 00:46:52,432 I want to invite the best employee of Swallows, 843 00:46:52,724 --> 00:46:57,521 I want to invite a woman representative of Swallows, 844 00:46:57,855 --> 00:47:01,733 to come to London in autumn or next spring. 845 00:47:02,150 --> 00:47:03,986 And I'd like to think 846 00:47:04,152 --> 00:47:06,405 Who would be the best representative. 847 00:47:07,406 --> 00:47:09,324 But I want you to know who your customers are, 848 00:47:09,491 --> 00:47:11,952 and I want you to really understand the market 849 00:47:12,119 --> 00:47:14,288 and come back and tell all your friends. 850 00:47:41,565 --> 00:47:44,359 Or, if you do single thread, simple stitch, 851 00:47:44,526 --> 00:47:46,904 then maybe you need to do denser? 852 00:47:47,070 --> 00:47:48,655 - Good. - More focused? 853 00:48:01,793 --> 00:48:04,254 If it continues for a while, 854 00:48:04,421 --> 00:48:07,174 we will climb the showroom now, PV15. 855 00:48:07,341 --> 00:48:10,886 Can you come and show us the next thing to do? 856 00:48:11,053 --> 00:48:12,054 Yes. 857 00:48:16,350 --> 00:48:19,228 People Tree hoped would not be necessary, 858 00:48:19,394 --> 00:48:23,815 and I hoped we had a trading system to take care 859 00:48:23,982 --> 00:48:26,944 the rights of people and the environment. 860 00:48:27,861 --> 00:48:30,280 But the more I'm involved in the development, 861 00:48:30,447 --> 00:48:31,865 and collaboration with partners, 862 00:48:32,032 --> 00:48:36,453 more dirt and filth I discovered 863 00:48:36,620 --> 00:48:38,247 about business practices 864 00:48:38,413 --> 00:48:40,123 undermine everything we believe in, 865 00:48:40,290 --> 00:48:44,378 and all I know that most people believe and value. 866 00:48:47,381 --> 00:48:49,581 I do not know, People Tree really grew in an organic way. 867 00:48:49,716 --> 00:48:52,427 It grew from a large group of people 868 00:48:52,594 --> 00:48:55,222 who believe passionately that there is a different way of ... 869 00:48:55,556 --> 00:48:58,642 To work, to live, to eat, 870 00:48:58,809 --> 00:49:02,020 to interact with people in a humane way. 871 00:49:05,566 --> 00:49:07,818 I not necessarily think that would be a thousand shops 872 00:49:07,985 --> 00:49:09,486 selling today People Tree, 873 00:49:10,821 --> 00:49:13,031 and I see that there is much more we need to do. 874 00:49:13,198 --> 00:49:15,659 I think not just about creating jobs 875 00:49:15,826 --> 00:49:18,078 for 7000 people working at People Tree. 876 00:49:18,245 --> 00:49:20,998 It also seeks to be a catalyst for change in the sector, 877 00:49:21,164 --> 00:49:23,625 showing, proving that the model works. 878 00:49:35,429 --> 00:49:36,847 When we begin to be organic, 879 00:49:37,014 --> 00:49:38,974 I think we were only two or three at the time, 880 00:49:39,141 --> 00:49:42,186 Marketing Cooperative formed the Texas Organic Cotton, 881 00:49:42,352 --> 00:49:44,855 and the agreement was that they grew and sold it. 882 00:49:45,022 --> 00:49:47,149 So I started going to Jacob Javits 883 00:49:47,316 --> 00:49:50,068 and with all this cotton plants and everything, 884 00:49:50,235 --> 00:49:52,362 we said, "Yes, we have organic cotton" 885 00:49:52,529 --> 00:49:55,741 and people looked at us like we're totally crazy. 886 00:49:57,826 --> 00:50:00,370 Consumers often become aware of ... 887 00:50:00,537 --> 00:50:02,873 Organic milk, or have an allergy. 888 00:50:03,040 --> 00:50:05,417 And, curiously, cotton, 889 00:50:05,584 --> 00:50:06,784 and what they put on the body 890 00:50:06,835 --> 00:50:09,254 although the skin is the body's largest organ, 891 00:50:09,421 --> 00:50:10,589 it is not even important 892 00:50:10,756 --> 00:50:13,217 they do not understand the connection of saying, 893 00:50:13,383 --> 00:50:15,093 "I like this organic apple, 894 00:50:15,260 --> 00:50:17,638 so I'm not getting directly 895 00:50:17,804 --> 00:50:20,724 pesticides or chemicals, or whatever the case. " 896 00:50:20,891 --> 00:50:23,352 But they do not understand the direct connection with clothing. 897 00:50:23,519 --> 00:50:26,772 And so you have to start looking at the broader community level. 898 00:50:26,939 --> 00:50:29,024 This is our air, our world. 899 00:50:29,191 --> 00:50:31,568 This is our planet, our people. 900 00:50:31,735 --> 00:50:34,238 And so that awareness of ... 901 00:50:34,404 --> 00:50:36,657 You may not feel they have a direct impact 902 00:50:36,823 --> 00:50:38,617 buying this organic shirt. 903 00:50:39,535 --> 00:50:41,161 But the impact 904 00:50:41,328 --> 00:50:43,747 It is in the bigger picture, in the world at large, 905 00:50:43,914 --> 00:50:47,042 and especially where the community has grown cotton. 906 00:50:59,513 --> 00:51:01,348 As hard frost arrives, 907 00:51:01,515 --> 00:51:03,559 as organic farmers, we hope that icy 908 00:51:03,809 --> 00:51:08,272 because that literally skims, removes leaves the plant, 909 00:51:08,730 --> 00:51:12,651 so that when harvested, mature capsules are open, 910 00:51:12,943 --> 00:51:14,611 and cotton leaves here, 911 00:51:14,778 --> 00:51:16,738 and you can see what comes in sections. 912 00:51:17,990 --> 00:51:20,951 This machine is called cotton harvester. 913 00:51:21,118 --> 00:51:22,661 And it is called cotton harvester 914 00:51:22,828 --> 00:51:25,497 because literally it comes and starts, 915 00:51:25,873 --> 00:51:27,958 use something like fingers, and literally starts 916 00:51:28,125 --> 00:51:31,628 all capsules of this plant. 917 00:51:32,087 --> 00:51:34,173 So if you look here, you can see 918 00:51:34,381 --> 00:51:37,342 Combine and went out there and has collected all the plants. 919 00:51:48,353 --> 00:51:51,064 I think one of the problems we have in the current model 920 00:51:51,231 --> 00:51:52,831 It is that what matters is profit. 921 00:51:52,983 --> 00:51:58,030 And do not take into account: "This cost, at what price?" 922 00:51:58,197 --> 00:51:59,656 The price of polluting the water, 923 00:51:59,823 --> 00:52:01,575 the price of labor, 924 00:52:01,742 --> 00:52:02,993 the bars on the window, 925 00:52:03,160 --> 00:52:05,704 that people die when a fire in the factory, 926 00:52:05,871 --> 00:52:08,874 the price of farmers who have no access 927 00:52:09,041 --> 00:52:10,959 education and health services. 928 00:52:11,126 --> 00:52:14,671 And so we really have not calculated what the real price. 929 00:52:20,093 --> 00:52:23,722 Kanpur is located along the Ganges River, 930 00:52:23,889 --> 00:52:26,266 which is the most sacred river. 931 00:52:26,433 --> 00:52:31,730 And it is also very important for 800 million Hindus 932 00:52:31,897 --> 00:52:36,401 and also it serves as a way of life for northern India. 933 00:52:36,568 --> 00:52:39,571 Leather factories Kanpur 934 00:52:39,738 --> 00:52:42,866 They are polluting and killing this river. 935 00:52:44,952 --> 00:52:48,205 With the growing demand for inexpensive materials such as leather, 936 00:52:48,372 --> 00:52:51,917 Kanpur is now the capital of leather exports from India. 937 00:53:01,593 --> 00:53:05,472 Every day, more than 50 million liters of toxic wastewater 938 00:53:05,639 --> 00:53:07,224 leaving local tanneries. 939 00:53:07,391 --> 00:53:10,269 Chemical complexes used to treat leather, such as chromium-6, 940 00:53:10,435 --> 00:53:13,313 flow into local agriculture and even drinking water. 941 00:53:14,356 --> 00:53:17,568 In places like Kanpur, hidden in the eyes of the world, 942 00:53:17,734 --> 00:53:20,362 big Western brands get cheaper materials 943 00:53:20,529 --> 00:53:24,283 while avoiding any responsibility for the rising cost to human health 944 00:53:24,741 --> 00:53:26,159 and the environment. 945 00:53:36,044 --> 00:53:41,717 The people in that area is affected by pollution from the tanneries. 946 00:53:42,176 --> 00:53:47,347 The local environment is polluted, the soil is contaminated. 947 00:53:47,514 --> 00:53:50,434 The only source of drinking water, 948 00:53:50,851 --> 00:53:53,937 groundwater is contaminated with chromium. 949 00:53:54,146 --> 00:53:56,064 Agricultural products, 950 00:53:56,231 --> 00:53:59,693 even vegetables and salad products, 951 00:53:59,860 --> 00:54:01,862 They produced there. 952 00:54:02,029 --> 00:54:05,032 The health of people affected. 953 00:54:05,240 --> 00:54:08,493 People have different types of skin problems: 954 00:54:09,453 --> 00:54:12,080 skin rashes, blisters, pustules, 955 00:54:12,247 --> 00:54:13,749 numbness of the limbs. 956 00:54:13,916 --> 00:54:18,670 People have stomach ailments, they may also have cancer. 957 00:54:20,506 --> 00:54:23,091 My daughter suffers from jaundice. 958 00:54:23,258 --> 00:54:27,095 Every year, people in nearly every house in this region 959 00:54:27,262 --> 00:54:28,472 suffers from this disease. 960 00:54:28,639 --> 00:54:31,141 Even my wife had jaundice. 961 00:54:31,308 --> 00:54:34,937 As I said, many people every year have the same problem. 962 00:54:35,103 --> 00:54:39,900 We used all our savings to treat diseases, 963 00:54:40,067 --> 00:54:44,655 because the chromium in the water 964 00:54:44,821 --> 00:54:48,283 attacks the liver, 965 00:54:48,450 --> 00:54:54,081 creates digestive problems, and many people can get jaundice 966 00:54:54,248 --> 00:54:58,418 or liver cancer if we do not take precautions. 967 00:54:59,294 --> 00:55:02,047 You may have the best materials 968 00:55:02,214 --> 00:55:07,052 the market for high-end fashion in Milan or Paris or London. 969 00:55:07,511 --> 00:55:12,015 But there has been so much work behind it, 970 00:55:12,182 --> 00:55:14,184 and they have been used many chemicals, 971 00:55:14,351 --> 00:55:17,271 effluents were discharged into many rivers. 972 00:55:17,437 --> 00:55:20,023 But we're just looking at that moment in time 973 00:55:20,190 --> 00:55:21,859 the finished product. 974 00:55:22,234 --> 00:55:25,028 We have to go back and think about it. 975 00:55:28,448 --> 00:55:31,535 The fashion today is the second most polluting industry 976 00:55:31,702 --> 00:55:34,955 on earth, second only to the oil industry. 977 00:55:35,330 --> 00:55:37,583 The alarming thing is that fashion not only used 978 00:55:37,749 --> 00:55:39,459 a wealth of natural resources, 979 00:55:39,626 --> 00:55:42,004 and make amazing environmental effects, 980 00:55:42,171 --> 00:55:46,049 these natural resources and the impact often are not even measured. 981 00:55:46,216 --> 00:55:49,803 As they have been so abundant these resources, 982 00:55:50,637 --> 00:55:52,973 it is assumed that they will be around forever. 983 00:55:53,515 --> 00:55:55,976 So I think the industry has not justified 984 00:55:56,143 --> 00:55:59,605 because it is only from the 50s 985 00:56:00,022 --> 00:56:04,026 we've really had this industrial expansion 986 00:56:04,193 --> 00:56:08,405 at such a rate that we start to see exponential growth 987 00:56:08,572 --> 00:56:10,991 and exponential use of natural resources. 988 00:56:11,575 --> 00:56:14,494 Our lives depend on the economy first nature. 989 00:56:14,661 --> 00:56:16,622 Nature has an economy. 990 00:56:16,788 --> 00:56:20,501 That economy is enormous. It is not counted. 991 00:56:20,876 --> 00:56:24,004 Then there is the economy of the people, the workers, laborers, 992 00:56:24,171 --> 00:56:25,506 Farmers growing. 993 00:56:25,672 --> 00:56:29,092 That became invisible through this construct, 994 00:56:29,259 --> 00:56:31,929 first the Depression, then during the war years, 995 00:56:32,095 --> 00:56:36,266 the number called GDP, gross domestic product, 996 00:56:36,433 --> 00:56:41,480 that only measures which are traded, 997 00:56:41,688 --> 00:56:43,398 and it has become a commodity. 998 00:56:43,565 --> 00:56:45,317 Many resources 999 00:56:45,484 --> 00:56:49,738 we use to make our clothes have not been justified 1000 00:56:49,905 --> 00:56:53,534 in the production cost of such clothing. 1001 00:56:54,117 --> 00:56:59,414 Then you have the water used to produce clothing, 1002 00:56:59,581 --> 00:57:02,376 land used to grow the fiber, 1003 00:57:03,293 --> 00:57:06,421 chemicals used for dyeing. 1004 00:57:07,214 --> 00:57:11,134 Those things are all inputs. 1005 00:57:11,593 --> 00:57:14,888 And as inputs, they have a cost, 1006 00:57:15,639 --> 00:57:17,891 and also give products 1007 00:57:18,058 --> 00:57:22,187 in some cases, good products, the clothing itself, jobs, 1008 00:57:22,354 --> 00:57:26,275 but in other cases, bad products, such as harmful chemicals, 1009 00:57:26,441 --> 00:57:28,318 or emissions of greenhouse gases, 1010 00:57:28,485 --> 00:57:30,362 and those things also have a cost. 1011 00:57:41,039 --> 00:57:43,750 Sleeping on pillow. 1012 00:57:44,001 --> 00:57:46,336 Do you feel bad leaving Nadia? 1013 00:57:46,503 --> 00:57:50,090 Of course I feel bad, but I can not do anything. 1014 00:57:50,257 --> 00:57:54,344 Working here, I am forced to leave the village. 1015 00:57:54,511 --> 00:57:56,972 In the past two months, he did not sit with their books. 1016 00:57:57,139 --> 00:57:58,640 Just watch TV and cartoons. 1017 00:57:58,807 --> 00:58:00,017 And music videos. 1018 00:58:00,184 --> 00:58:02,519 But if he stays in the village, you can not do that. 1019 00:58:02,686 --> 00:58:05,147 He goes to school in the morning, again at noon 1020 00:58:05,314 --> 00:58:08,150 and 3 pm will tutoring. 1021 00:58:08,317 --> 00:58:09,526 That's not possible here. 1022 00:58:12,112 --> 00:58:14,489 What do you do with Nadia now? 1023 00:58:14,656 --> 00:58:17,367 Sometimes I leave with the neighbor, 1024 00:58:17,534 --> 00:58:22,289 Sometimes his father used to take care of it. 1025 00:58:22,456 --> 00:58:24,625 And I took my works sometimes. 1026 00:58:24,791 --> 00:58:26,710 I took her to the factory yesterday. 1027 00:58:31,465 --> 00:58:34,051 The same low wages that make places like Bangladesh 1028 00:58:34,218 --> 00:58:36,470 so attractive for brands to do business, 1029 00:58:36,637 --> 00:58:40,015 have left millions of workers working long hours, 1030 00:58:40,182 --> 00:58:42,392 unable to afford to keep their children with them, 1031 00:58:42,559 --> 00:58:45,187 even in the poorest slums. 1032 00:58:45,354 --> 00:58:47,397 To give their children an education, 1033 00:58:47,564 --> 00:58:50,400 and the chance for a better life in future factories, 1034 00:58:50,567 --> 00:58:54,404 many textile workers here, as Shima, leave their children 1035 00:58:54,571 --> 00:58:57,908 to raise them family or friends in villages far from the city, 1036 00:58:58,075 --> 00:59:00,994 and only see once or twice a year. 1037 00:59:44,204 --> 00:59:46,290 This is my dad, 1038 00:59:46,456 --> 00:59:49,585 over a year since I saw him. 1039 00:59:49,751 --> 00:59:52,337 Sometimes I talk to him by phone, 1040 00:59:52,504 --> 00:59:56,133 but over a year since I saw him. 1041 00:59:57,885 --> 00:59:59,803 This is my mom, 1042 01:00:01,597 --> 01:00:04,141 a year ago he has not seen. 1043 01:00:04,474 --> 01:00:08,979 I talk to her on the phone too, but do not see often. 1044 01:00:48,727 --> 01:00:52,022 The struggle of the workers of Bangladesh has no limits. 1045 01:00:52,189 --> 01:00:55,359 Each day we woke up early in the morning, 1046 01:00:55,526 --> 01:00:59,613 we go to the factory, and we work very hard all day. 1047 01:00:59,780 --> 01:01:03,700 And we do all the hard work clothes. 1048 01:01:03,867 --> 01:01:08,747 And that's what people use. 1049 01:01:08,956 --> 01:01:15,337 People have no idea how hard it is for us to do the laundry. 1050 01:01:15,504 --> 01:01:18,632 Only buy and use it. 1051 01:01:18,799 --> 01:01:21,593 I think these clothes are produced with our blood. 1052 01:01:21,844 --> 01:01:26,723 Many textile workers die in separate accidents. 1053 01:01:26,890 --> 01:01:31,562 About a year ago, there was a cave in Rana Plaza. 1054 01:01:31,728 --> 01:01:35,023 Many workers died there. 1055 01:01:35,190 --> 01:01:39,361 It is very painful for us. 1056 01:01:39,778 --> 01:01:43,323 I do not want anyone seen anything, 1057 01:01:43,490 --> 01:01:45,742 to occur with our blood. 1058 01:01:45,909 --> 01:01:48,871 We want better working conditions, so that all are aware. 1059 01:01:49,037 --> 01:01:53,041 I do not want another owner as Rana Square 1060 01:01:53,208 --> 01:01:57,546 run that risk and force workers 1061 01:01:57,713 --> 01:02:01,216 to work in such conditions. 1062 01:02:01,383 --> 01:02:04,553 Lest they die more workers as well. 1063 01:02:04,720 --> 01:02:08,473 For there is no more mothers who lost their children as well. 1064 01:02:08,640 --> 01:02:12,603 I do not want this, I want that the owners are a little more aware 1065 01:02:12,769 --> 01:02:14,396 and take care of us. 1066 01:02:20,986 --> 01:02:22,946 You know? Really hit profits 1067 01:02:23,113 --> 01:02:28,118 their need to work, to use as slaves. 1068 01:02:28,285 --> 01:02:31,955 And I'm not saying that ... We have to give them work, 1069 01:02:32,122 --> 01:02:36,460 but they must be treated with the same respect 1070 01:02:36,627 --> 01:02:39,713 with which we treat our children, our friends. 1071 01:02:39,880 --> 01:02:41,632 They are not different from us. 1072 01:02:41,924 --> 01:02:44,301 Livia Firth has called for major changes 1073 01:02:44,468 --> 01:02:45,552 in the fashion industry. 1074 01:02:45,719 --> 01:02:47,221 She made headlines for starting something 1075 01:02:47,387 --> 01:02:49,097 called "The Challenge of Green Carpet" 1076 01:02:49,264 --> 01:02:50,974 urging famous and great designers 1077 01:02:51,141 --> 01:02:53,852 to participate in more fashion conscious ways. 1078 01:02:54,061 --> 01:02:56,897 Sustainability runs a consultancy called Eco Age, 1079 01:02:57,064 --> 01:02:59,066 and he has been invited to speak at a conference 1080 01:02:59,233 --> 01:03:00,692 about the future of fashion. 1081 01:03:00,943 --> 01:03:03,028 If there fast fashion, 1082 01:03:03,320 --> 01:03:05,781 no need to have a summit in Copenhagen 1083 01:03:05,948 --> 01:03:09,743 to try to solve the disaster of the destruction of the environment, 1084 01:03:09,910 --> 01:03:13,163 destruction of social justice, which has been caused 1085 01:03:13,330 --> 01:03:16,750 in the last 15 or 20 years of its existence. 1086 01:03:16,917 --> 01:03:19,253 Fast Fashion wants to produce fast, 1087 01:03:19,628 --> 01:03:23,882 so the textile worker has to produce faster and cheaper. 1088 01:03:24,049 --> 01:03:28,011 So the textile worker is the only point of the supply chain 1089 01:03:28,178 --> 01:03:30,097 where margins are compressed. 1090 01:03:30,264 --> 01:03:33,934 And we have these huge companies 1091 01:03:34,101 --> 01:03:35,686 They are going to the factory in Bangladesh, 1092 01:03:35,853 --> 01:03:38,188 They make an order for 1.5 million jeans 1093 01:03:38,355 --> 01:03:42,109 30 cents each, 50 cents each ... 1094 01:03:42,276 --> 01:03:43,986 How can it be ethical? 1095 01:03:44,152 --> 01:03:45,362 I do not know. 1096 01:03:46,572 --> 01:03:48,699 But also, from the point of view of the consumer, 1097 01:03:48,866 --> 01:03:52,202 Is it really democratic buy a shirt for $ 5 1098 01:03:52,369 --> 01:03:54,830 or pay $ 20 for their jeans? 1099 01:03:54,997 --> 01:03:57,708 Or are we kidding? 1100 01:03:58,208 --> 01:04:01,879 Because they are making us believe that we are rich or wealthy 1101 01:04:02,045 --> 01:04:03,964 because we can buy many things. 1102 01:04:04,131 --> 01:04:06,758 But we actually are getting poorer. 1103 01:04:06,925 --> 01:04:09,553 And the only person who is getting richer 1104 01:04:09,720 --> 01:04:12,389 It is the brand owner of Fast Fashion. 1105 01:04:12,723 --> 01:04:15,267 So that angers me a little. 1106 01:04:22,983 --> 01:04:25,736 You spoke of a commitment 1107 01:04:25,903 --> 01:04:31,408 promise to try to basic subsistence wages. 1108 01:04:32,034 --> 01:04:33,452 What does that mean? 1109 01:04:33,827 --> 01:04:37,289 How fair subsistence wages defined in Bangladesh? 1110 01:04:37,748 --> 01:04:41,210 You know? What does that mean? 1111 01:04:41,376 --> 01:04:44,213 "Having a pilot project in three factories" 1112 01:04:44,379 --> 01:04:49,051 and by 2018, 15% of their factories are going to have that? 1113 01:04:49,218 --> 01:04:51,470 That is not enough. it is not. 1114 01:04:51,929 --> 01:04:54,765 For us it is very clear that what is a living wage, 1115 01:04:54,932 --> 01:04:57,309 It is something that workers should say, 1116 01:04:57,476 --> 01:05:01,730 and that is incorporated into our way of working. 1117 01:05:01,897 --> 01:05:03,106 How much is it? 1118 01:05:03,273 --> 01:05:05,275 And we are not who should say how much, 1119 01:05:05,442 --> 01:05:07,736 but we do assessments all the time. 1120 01:05:07,903 --> 01:05:08,903 How much is it? 1121 01:05:08,946 --> 01:05:13,367 And to ensure that covers the basic needs of workers. 1122 01:05:13,825 --> 01:05:16,995 I can show it later. 1123 01:05:17,162 --> 01:05:19,748 H & M has dominated the fast fashion model, 1124 01:05:19,915 --> 01:05:23,168 becoming the second largest clothing company in history. 1125 01:05:23,335 --> 01:05:26,505 With annual revenues of over $ 18 billion dollars, 1126 01:05:26,880 --> 01:05:29,466 Now they are one of the largest producers of clothes 1127 01:05:29,633 --> 01:05:32,094 in Bangladesh and Cambodia. 1128 01:05:32,344 --> 01:05:35,764 Unfortunately, like other large retailers who asked, 1129 01:05:35,931 --> 01:05:38,851 They refused to grant an interview for this film. 1130 01:05:45,732 --> 01:05:49,152 PHNOM PENH, CAMBODIA 1131 01:05:53,490 --> 01:05:56,285 In Cambodia, the garment workers are tired. 1132 01:05:56,451 --> 01:05:57,828 They recently took the streets 1133 01:05:57,995 --> 01:06:00,747 to demand a minimum wage increase in the country. 1134 01:06:06,336 --> 01:06:09,631 To continue the protests were met with violent repression, 1135 01:06:09,798 --> 01:06:13,302 as police opened fire with live ammunition. 1136 01:06:33,322 --> 01:06:35,782 A woman died and several people were injured 1137 01:06:35,949 --> 01:06:38,076 in clashes between workers of textile mills 1138 01:06:38,243 --> 01:06:40,204 and riot police in Cambodia. 1139 01:07:13,529 --> 01:07:17,991 For two days, Cambodia was a battleground. 1140 01:07:18,200 --> 01:07:19,993 The city of Phnom Penh. 1141 01:07:20,244 --> 01:07:24,206 They brought to the police, paratroopers 1142 01:07:24,373 --> 01:07:28,877 as if there were a war in the streets of Phnom Penh. 1143 01:07:29,044 --> 01:07:32,840 Why? Because workers in the textile industry 1144 01:07:33,006 --> 01:07:34,758 still required 1145 01:07:35,092 --> 01:07:37,970 a minimum wage of at least $ 160. 1146 01:07:41,139 --> 01:07:43,809 The government violently repressed us, and as a result 1147 01:07:43,976 --> 01:07:46,186 five workers, 23 died were arrested, 1148 01:07:46,353 --> 01:07:48,647 and more than 40 wounded. 1149 01:07:48,814 --> 01:07:51,108 And actually we are not asking for much money. 1150 01:07:51,275 --> 01:07:56,572 We just want a proper wage to a decent life with dignity. 1151 01:07:56,738 --> 01:08:01,285 But the government does not care how poor we are 1152 01:08:01,451 --> 01:08:03,537 or how much suffering we endured. 1153 01:08:03,704 --> 01:08:05,706 They do not care workers at all. 1154 01:08:05,873 --> 01:08:11,003 So we continue to demand $ 160 1155 01:08:11,170 --> 01:08:13,463 a monthly minimum wage. 1156 01:08:15,716 --> 01:08:21,471 Today is the funeral of a factory worker. 1157 01:08:21,847 --> 01:08:25,309 He was beaten to death. 1158 01:08:25,893 --> 01:08:31,648 She had suffered greatly before dying this morning. 1159 01:08:31,899 --> 01:08:35,694 And he had not done anything wrong. 1160 01:08:35,861 --> 01:08:39,781 He, among his colleagues, 1161 01:08:40,949 --> 01:08:44,703 I wanted to have better living conditions. 1162 01:09:11,146 --> 01:09:14,816 Continue their fight 1163 01:09:15,692 --> 01:09:19,696 for all Cambodian workers 1164 01:09:19,863 --> 01:09:23,909 have decent living conditions. 1165 01:09:25,369 --> 01:09:27,037 Thank you sir. 1166 01:09:35,587 --> 01:09:38,590 The Cambodian government, like other developing countries, 1167 01:09:38,757 --> 01:09:42,553 desperately you need the business they bring multinational retailers. 1168 01:09:43,011 --> 01:09:44,888 By the constant threat of these brands 1169 01:09:45,055 --> 01:09:47,766 on the relocation of production to other low-cost countries, 1170 01:09:47,933 --> 01:09:49,810 the government keeps down wages, 1171 01:09:49,977 --> 01:09:52,855 systematically avoiding compliance with local labor laws. 1172 01:09:53,105 --> 01:09:56,191 But how are you officially marks do not employ workers, 1173 01:09:56,358 --> 01:09:59,027 or they own any factories where they produce, 1174 01:09:59,194 --> 01:10:01,071 they can make huge profits, 1175 01:10:01,238 --> 01:10:03,615 while remaining free of responsibility 1176 01:10:03,782 --> 01:10:06,910 the effects of precarious employment, Disaster factories, 1177 01:10:07,077 --> 01:10:10,080 and continued violent treatment of workers. 1178 01:10:10,289 --> 01:10:12,541 The whole system begins to seem 1179 01:10:12,708 --> 01:10:14,710 as a perfectly designed nightmare 1180 01:10:14,877 --> 01:10:17,296 for workers trapped inside. 1181 01:10:19,631 --> 01:10:24,219 They can not deceive, and exploit our human resources, 1182 01:10:24,386 --> 01:10:25,804 exploit our workers. 1183 01:10:25,971 --> 01:10:28,223 Workers continue rising. 1184 01:10:28,724 --> 01:10:32,019 I ask the international brands 1185 01:10:32,477 --> 01:10:38,066 to turn this fight in dollars, 1186 01:10:38,233 --> 01:10:40,986 in pounds, euros. 1187 01:10:41,737 --> 01:10:45,282 It translates into human capital. 1188 01:10:45,657 --> 01:10:49,995 It translates in social responsibility 1189 01:10:50,162 --> 01:10:51,705 of these large companies, 1190 01:10:51,872 --> 01:10:55,167 It translates into economic justice. 1191 01:10:55,334 --> 01:10:58,712 When everything is concentrated on making profits 1192 01:10:58,879 --> 01:11:00,422 for large companies, 1193 01:11:00,589 --> 01:11:02,132 we see that human rights, 1194 01:11:02,299 --> 01:11:05,594 the environment, labor rights are completely lost. 1195 01:11:05,761 --> 01:11:08,472 We see that workers are increasingly exploited 1196 01:11:08,639 --> 01:11:12,267 because it brings down the price lower all increasing, 1197 01:11:12,434 --> 01:11:16,188 simply to satisfy this urge to accumulate capital. 1198 01:11:16,355 --> 01:11:18,357 And that is deeply problematic, 1199 01:11:18,524 --> 01:11:20,943 because it leads to massive impoverishment 1200 01:11:21,109 --> 01:11:24,279 hundreds of millions of people worldwide. 1201 01:11:25,572 --> 01:11:27,908 If you write to any of these companies, 1202 01:11:28,075 --> 01:11:29,701 they send its Code of Conduct. 1203 01:11:29,868 --> 01:11:33,956 And it's beautiful, and says: "Yes, we take responsibility 1204 01:11:34,122 --> 01:11:36,834 conditions under which our product is made, 1205 01:11:37,000 --> 01:11:38,335 the product you buy. 1206 01:11:38,502 --> 01:11:40,212 In all the factories where we produce, 1207 01:11:40,379 --> 01:11:44,383 we require them to abide by minimum wage laws, 1208 01:11:44,550 --> 01:11:46,343 all laws of the country, 1209 01:11:46,510 --> 01:11:49,721 respect women and not hire children, 1210 01:11:50,514 --> 01:11:52,349 no forced labor, 1211 01:11:53,392 --> 01:11:56,854 no excessive overtime, "all those things. 1212 01:11:58,647 --> 01:12:03,277 But when we introduced a bill in Congress a few years ago, 1213 01:12:03,443 --> 01:12:05,821 or we work with people to do it, 1214 01:12:05,988 --> 01:12:10,033 we call it "Law of decent working conditions and fair competition", 1215 01:12:10,200 --> 01:12:12,953 the companies responded with one voice, 1216 01:12:13,120 --> 01:12:15,789 "No! It would be an impediment to free trade. 1217 01:12:15,956 --> 01:12:19,585 There can be no rules. We can not pamper you! " 1218 01:12:19,751 --> 01:12:22,921 They want to keep with voluntary codes of conduct. 1219 01:12:23,505 --> 01:12:25,632 They have fought, and won, 1220 01:12:25,799 --> 01:12:29,887 by laws protecting their belongings and their interests, 1221 01:12:30,345 --> 01:12:32,014 but what about the workers? 1222 01:12:32,181 --> 01:12:34,433 There are only voluntary codes of conduct. 1223 01:12:34,600 --> 01:12:38,812 And what we see in case after case after case, 1224 01:12:38,979 --> 01:12:41,064 is that these voluntary codes of conduct 1225 01:12:43,567 --> 01:12:47,112 We must recognize, particularly in the fashion sector, 1226 01:12:47,279 --> 01:12:50,657 that human capital is part of this miracle formula. 1227 01:12:51,867 --> 01:12:55,412 Without human capital, not cheap labor, 1228 01:12:55,579 --> 01:12:56,955 female hand cheap labor, 1229 01:12:57,122 --> 01:13:00,167 I would not be generating the profits it generates. 1230 01:13:01,418 --> 01:13:04,880 That has to be recognized, must be addressed, 1231 01:13:05,047 --> 01:13:08,467 and those people need to be rewarded and not exploited. 1232 01:13:08,634 --> 01:13:10,302 Where's your piece of the pie? 1233 01:13:10,469 --> 01:13:12,721 That is what we must constantly ask. 1234 01:13:12,888 --> 01:13:16,808 Are these immoral buyers? Or just not ... Or are they immoral? 1235 01:13:17,100 --> 01:13:19,561 The system for working and the system that allows 1236 01:13:19,728 --> 01:13:21,146 companies do it is amoral. 1237 01:13:21,313 --> 01:13:24,024 The persons concerned are merely products of that system 1238 01:13:24,191 --> 01:13:26,485 and they have to take it to its logical conclusion. 1239 01:13:26,652 --> 01:13:30,322 What we have to do is change how these businesses operate. 1240 01:13:30,656 --> 01:13:33,575 Operating in a system that only measures benefits, 1241 01:13:33,742 --> 01:13:35,911 companies have little incentive to do 1242 01:13:36,078 --> 01:13:38,997 nothing else to do that this quarter is better than the last. 1243 01:13:39,164 --> 01:13:41,875 Regardless of the damage to the road. 1244 01:13:42,251 --> 01:13:44,920 As companies in the global fashion industry, 1245 01:13:45,087 --> 01:13:47,881 leading brands, and seed and chemical companies, 1246 01:13:48,048 --> 01:13:51,802 today grow to a size and unprecedented global power. 1247 01:13:51,969 --> 01:13:55,722 This term profit at all costs, is beginning to be opposed 1248 01:13:55,889 --> 01:13:58,517 openly to the values ​​we share. 1249 01:13:59,935 --> 01:14:01,395 Richard Wolff es un economista, 1250 01:14:01,562 --> 01:14:05,148 that after graduating from Harvard, Stanford and Yale, 1251 01:14:05,315 --> 01:14:07,276 he was convinced that the real problem 1252 01:14:07,442 --> 01:14:09,278 it is within the system itself. 1253 01:14:09,444 --> 01:14:13,240 So the United States became a peculiar country. 1254 01:14:13,448 --> 01:14:15,284 You could criticize the educational system 1255 01:14:15,450 --> 01:14:16,535 to improve schools. 1256 01:14:16,702 --> 01:14:18,579 You could criticize the transport system 1257 01:14:18,745 --> 01:14:19,872 to work best. 1258 01:14:20,038 --> 01:14:20,789 You could crit ... 1259 01:14:20,956 --> 01:14:23,750 But you could not fault the economic system. 1260 01:14:23,917 --> 01:14:25,711 That had free pass. 1261 01:14:26,086 --> 01:14:27,462 You could not criticize ... 1262 01:14:28,213 --> 01:14:30,716 And if not critical thing for 50 years, 1263 01:14:30,883 --> 01:14:33,343 it rots, it decomposes. 1264 01:14:33,760 --> 01:14:35,554 One of the ways that a healthy society works 1265 01:14:35,721 --> 01:14:39,641 It is subjected to criticism of its component systems, 1266 01:14:39,808 --> 01:14:42,269 to discuss it and hopefully fix it, 1267 01:14:42,436 --> 01:14:44,271 or improve it or make it better. 1268 01:14:44,438 --> 01:14:46,982 You could not question capitalism. 1269 01:14:47,149 --> 01:14:48,275 Capitalism is the reason 1270 01:14:48,442 --> 01:14:51,361 whereby the fashion industry is as today. 1271 01:14:51,528 --> 01:14:54,990 It is the reason why so little is paid to workers in Bangladesh. 1272 01:14:55,157 --> 01:14:57,868 Because if you're operating in a capitalist system, 1273 01:14:58,035 --> 01:15:00,996 the most important thing to do is to create benefits 1274 01:15:01,163 --> 01:15:04,666 and you need to create more profits than its competitors. 1275 01:15:04,833 --> 01:15:06,627 And this is what drives companies 1276 01:15:06,793 --> 01:15:09,880 to keep wages low and getting lower. 1277 01:15:10,047 --> 01:15:13,884 But companies do not go ... The fashion retailers 1278 01:15:14,051 --> 01:15:18,639 They do not go to places like Bangladesh for no other reason except 1279 01:15:18,805 --> 01:15:21,475 they can get cheaper labor can work. 1280 01:15:21,642 --> 01:15:24,019 No collective rights in Bangladesh, 1281 01:15:24,186 --> 01:15:25,646 no trade union rights, 1282 01:15:25,812 --> 01:15:27,689 There is a very, very low minimum wage, 1283 01:15:27,856 --> 01:15:30,901 no maternity benefits, no pensions, 1284 01:15:31,068 --> 01:15:33,362 It is why the fashion industry is in Bangladesh 1285 01:15:33,529 --> 01:15:36,740 because you can get the most benefits from these people 1286 01:15:36,907 --> 01:15:38,617 they are making clothes for them. 1287 01:15:38,784 --> 01:15:42,079 Before you can solve a problem, you have to admit you have it 1288 01:15:42,246 --> 01:15:44,331 and before going to fix an economic system 1289 01:15:44,498 --> 01:15:47,584 it is working in this way, and producing such stresses 1290 01:15:47,751 --> 01:15:51,421 and inequalities and problems in our community, 1291 01:15:51,588 --> 01:15:55,425 we have to face the real extent of the problem we have, 1292 01:15:55,592 --> 01:15:58,053 with the overall system. 1293 01:15:58,220 --> 01:15:59,429 And at least 1294 01:15:59,596 --> 01:16:02,140 we have to open a national debate on the subject, 1295 01:16:02,307 --> 01:16:05,727 and at most, I think we have to think long and hard 1296 01:16:05,894 --> 01:16:08,647 on alternative systems that might work better. 1297 01:16:08,814 --> 01:16:12,025 For the environment, the big threat is that capital 1298 01:16:12,192 --> 01:16:16,405 You should continue to expand infinitely to survive. 1299 01:16:16,572 --> 01:16:20,200 You can not have any limit to its expansion and growth. 1300 01:16:20,367 --> 01:16:22,870 The natural world clearly has limits. 1301 01:16:23,036 --> 01:16:26,540 There are definite limits on how it can support the world 1302 01:16:26,707 --> 01:16:29,042 in terms of production, in terms of trade, 1303 01:16:29,209 --> 01:16:31,461 in terms of transport and distribution. 1304 01:16:31,628 --> 01:16:34,006 And it is clear that we have already exceeded 1305 01:16:34,173 --> 01:16:37,259 Many of these limits, that is why we are seeing so much tension 1306 01:16:37,426 --> 01:16:39,845 in the natural world right now. 1307 01:16:40,012 --> 01:16:43,390 Most people do not want to live in a system like this. 1308 01:16:43,599 --> 01:16:46,518 I think it's a system that makes most people very unhappy, 1309 01:16:46,685 --> 01:16:49,938 and I do not think people want to live on a planet that is dying slowly 1310 01:16:50,105 --> 01:16:53,066 or be exploiting their neighbors. 1311 01:16:53,317 --> 01:16:56,737 I think we need a huge systemic change. 1312 01:16:57,196 --> 01:16:59,656 If the system does not change, 1313 01:16:59,823 --> 01:17:02,367 It is being left intact 1314 01:17:02,534 --> 01:17:05,579 decisions of these companies, 1315 01:17:05,746 --> 01:17:08,957 meaning that a small group of executives and shareholders 1316 01:17:09,124 --> 01:17:11,502 They will be working on the same system, 1317 01:17:11,668 --> 01:17:14,546 subject to the same pattern of rewards and punishments, 1318 01:17:14,713 --> 01:17:18,133 that sooner or later it makes impose again, 1319 01:17:18,300 --> 01:17:19,635 there or elsewhere, 1320 01:17:19,801 --> 01:17:22,221 the same conditions against which they are fighting. 1321 01:17:22,387 --> 01:17:25,682 So leave it to improve their conditions, 1322 01:17:25,849 --> 01:17:29,770 do against the computer or otherwise do not speak seriously. 1323 01:17:29,978 --> 01:17:33,065 Our economic system is consumer capitalism, 1324 01:17:33,232 --> 01:17:37,819 and so the government needs to have consumption 1325 01:17:37,986 --> 01:17:39,530 at very high levels, 1326 01:17:39,947 --> 01:17:41,865 like companies, of course, 1327 01:17:42,032 --> 01:17:44,910 and so at some level, most people accept. 1328 01:17:45,410 --> 01:17:47,730 I've lost count of the people I spoke to said: 1329 01:17:47,829 --> 01:17:52,543 "Well, if we become less materialistic economy would collapse." 1330 01:17:52,709 --> 01:17:57,589 Well, they're right in a sense, because our economy 1331 01:17:57,756 --> 01:18:03,303 is based on materialism, it is based on such securities. 1332 01:18:03,470 --> 01:18:06,223 That's what it needs to survive. 1333 01:18:06,390 --> 01:18:08,475 That's part of the fuel it needs. 1334 01:18:09,226 --> 01:18:11,937 The problem is that it has a high price. 1335 01:18:12,187 --> 01:18:15,274 Black Friday is here we go, please? 1336 01:18:15,440 --> 01:18:18,360 Go, go, go buy, buy, buy 1337 01:18:18,527 --> 01:18:19,820 Black Friday Hysteria 1338 01:18:19,987 --> 01:18:22,155 continues in shopping centers. 1339 01:18:22,322 --> 01:18:24,199 In some parts of the country tonight, 1340 01:18:24,366 --> 01:18:25,659 It is as if someone announced 1341 01:18:25,826 --> 01:18:27,703 we are in danger of running out of things, 1342 01:18:27,870 --> 01:18:30,581 and those who need something have to go out and buy now 1343 01:18:30,747 --> 01:18:32,416 because it will disappear forever. 1344 01:18:32,583 --> 01:18:35,419 Walmart, she made more than 10 million transactions 1345 01:18:35,586 --> 01:18:37,588 in the first four hours of hysteria. 1346 01:18:37,754 --> 01:18:43,177 A record 15 000 people at Macy's in New York, buyers resist. 1347 01:18:43,343 --> 01:18:46,638 Black Friday is the longest day of the year sales. 1348 01:18:46,805 --> 01:18:50,225 Certainly in the case of Macy's. We'll have more sales this day 1349 01:18:50,434 --> 01:18:52,936 than any other day of the year. 1350 01:18:53,103 --> 01:18:58,025 This Christmas shopping spree shows that the country rose! 1351 01:18:58,192 --> 01:19:00,903 We are once again ... Yes! 1352 01:19:01,445 --> 01:19:02,946 Yes! 1353 01:19:03,780 --> 01:19:07,618 We are once again spending money we do not have 1354 01:19:07,784 --> 01:19:11,246 things that do not need to give people we do not like. 1355 01:19:13,874 --> 01:19:18,712 ¡IN. IT.! ¡IN. IT.! ¡IN. IT.! ¡IN. IT.! 1356 01:19:24,259 --> 01:19:25,844 OMG! 1357 01:21:31,136 --> 01:21:33,722 They love her 1358 01:21:33,889 --> 01:21:36,058 and possibly take care of it better than me. 1359 01:21:36,225 --> 01:21:38,519 However, one thing makes me sad. 1360 01:21:38,685 --> 01:21:40,646 No matter how much someone wants it, 1361 01:21:40,896 --> 01:21:43,774 no one can love a child's parents. 1362 01:21:44,399 --> 01:21:47,611 I feel heartbroken. 1363 01:22:00,958 --> 01:22:07,756 I do not want my daughter to have to work in a garment factory like me. 1364 01:22:08,257 --> 01:22:13,428 I feel bad, but I think I'll be happy one days 1365 01:22:13,595 --> 01:22:16,348 when she has a good future. 1366 01:22:16,515 --> 01:22:20,143 It will be a good human being and people will say, 1367 01:22:20,310 --> 01:22:23,146 although Shima worked in a garment factory 1368 01:22:23,313 --> 01:22:26,441 and he stayed in Dhaka, away from her daughter, 1369 01:22:26,608 --> 01:22:28,277 He gave him a good education to her daughter 1370 01:22:28,443 --> 01:22:29,903 and raised her as a good human being. 1371 01:22:30,070 --> 01:22:33,365 If you get a good job in government, or marries a good man, 1372 01:22:33,532 --> 01:22:39,496 then people will say and I will be very proud of that. 1373 01:22:39,955 --> 01:22:42,332 Yes, I fought, 1374 01:22:42,499 --> 01:22:45,252 but I did my best not to let her go through this. 1375 01:22:45,419 --> 01:22:48,005 As well screams. 1376 01:22:51,925 --> 01:22:55,637 I grew up on a farm, I married a guy who grew up on a farm, 1377 01:22:55,804 --> 01:22:59,766 and those who live on the farm, we live there, 1378 01:22:59,933 --> 01:23:02,477 It has to be safe for us too. 1379 01:23:02,644 --> 01:23:04,313 And the new chemicals 1380 01:23:04,479 --> 01:23:08,525 and intensity of use, continued to rise. 1381 01:23:08,692 --> 01:23:13,155 And then in 2005, 1382 01:23:15,199 --> 01:23:18,202 Terry began to have loss of fine motor skills, 1383 01:23:18,368 --> 01:23:20,204 and this and that, and she discovered 1384 01:23:20,370 --> 01:23:23,999 I had glioblastoma multiforme, a brain tumor in stage 4 1385 01:23:25,083 --> 01:23:28,629 and in the fullness of his 47 years. 1386 01:23:30,047 --> 01:23:31,715 He died at age 50. 1387 01:23:32,090 --> 01:23:34,510 We got six months, we had two and a half years, 1388 01:23:34,676 --> 01:23:38,680 and the neurosurgeon who operated on him, Lubbock, 1389 01:23:38,847 --> 01:23:43,769 It has immense cancer clinics and a medical center. 1390 01:23:44,520 --> 01:23:47,281 We did not have to go elsewhere for that brain tumor operate. 1391 01:23:47,314 --> 01:23:49,066 We could stay here 1392 01:23:49,233 --> 01:23:51,151 because it makes many operations. 1393 01:23:51,318 --> 01:23:55,072 He said that this type of tumor found in men, 45 to 65, 1394 01:23:55,239 --> 01:23:59,910 working in agriculture, or oilfields. 1395 01:24:00,202 --> 01:24:03,622 And although I have no hard evidence, no blood test to tell 1396 01:24:03,789 --> 01:24:08,961 The use of cotton chemicals, agricultural chemicals, 1397 01:24:09,127 --> 01:24:11,463 led directly to the death of my husband, 1398 01:24:11,630 --> 01:24:14,174 there are too many connections with the death of his father. 1399 01:24:14,341 --> 01:24:16,718 He grew up on a farm with intensive use of chemicals, 1400 01:24:16,885 --> 01:24:19,638 We live amid 1.2 million hectares of cotton, 1401 01:24:19,805 --> 01:24:21,431 using many chemicals. 1402 01:24:21,598 --> 01:24:23,934 And those moments, 1403 01:24:24,852 --> 01:24:27,187 organic was no longer important to me, 1404 01:24:28,397 --> 01:24:29,773 it was imperative. 1405 01:24:29,940 --> 01:24:32,359 It is imperative that we change agriculture. 1406 01:24:32,526 --> 01:24:35,988 It is imperative, if we talk about the long-term sustainability 1407 01:24:36,154 --> 01:24:38,657 and welfare of our lives on this planet, 1408 01:24:38,824 --> 01:24:40,742 and the lives of our children on the planet, 1409 01:24:40,909 --> 01:24:42,995 we have to change. 1410 01:25:06,435 --> 01:25:08,353 It is the beginning of a turning point, 1411 01:25:08,520 --> 01:25:11,023 not only for a responsible fashion to make way, 1412 01:25:11,190 --> 01:25:13,066 but a new form of capitalism, 1413 01:25:13,233 --> 01:25:15,194 for a new form of economy. 1414 01:25:15,569 --> 01:25:20,657 I'm sure we'll see a significant change 1415 01:25:20,824 --> 01:25:22,576 over the next ten years. 1416 01:25:22,993 --> 01:25:25,537 If you arrive on time or not it is another matter. 1417 01:25:27,539 --> 01:25:29,333 Martin Luther King Jr., 1418 01:25:29,499 --> 01:25:31,877 in a speech at a church in Brooklyn, he said 1419 01:25:32,044 --> 01:25:35,422 what America needed was a revolution of values. 1420 01:25:35,589 --> 01:25:38,342 She had to stop treating people as things. 1421 01:25:38,634 --> 01:25:41,803 She had to stop treating people in a way 1422 01:25:41,970 --> 01:25:43,514 it was just about profits. 1423 01:25:43,680 --> 01:25:47,976 And however treat people in a real and human way. 1424 01:25:48,393 --> 01:25:51,271 OMG! We can make things better! 1425 01:25:51,438 --> 01:25:56,902 If we want to disseminate, and I would say yes, 1426 01:25:57,069 --> 01:26:00,906 industry spread throughout the world, not concentrate in one place. 1427 01:26:01,073 --> 01:26:05,327 Allow benefits are shared globally, 1428 01:26:05,494 --> 01:26:10,958 then let's do it in an orderly fashion, reasonable, carefully. 1429 01:26:11,124 --> 01:26:14,002 We must recognize that capital is only money. 1430 01:26:14,503 --> 01:26:15,671 Money is a means, 1431 01:26:15,879 --> 01:26:18,674 and people should be accountable for how it is used. 1432 01:26:18,841 --> 01:26:23,637 We have to celebrate the creative power of human beings. 1433 01:26:23,804 --> 01:26:25,556 And we talk about the creative work, 1434 01:26:25,722 --> 01:26:27,808 We should stop talking about labor. 1435 01:26:28,016 --> 01:26:32,354 We have to look at the earth not as a commodity, 1436 01:26:32,980 --> 01:26:35,107 with which it is speculated and markets, 1437 01:26:35,274 --> 01:26:38,694 but as the very basis of our life, as Mother Earth. 1438 01:26:38,986 --> 01:26:42,030 It becomes all consumer activists, 1439 01:26:42,531 --> 01:26:44,616 all consumers make ethical questions, 1440 01:26:44,783 --> 01:26:47,911 all consumers do very simple questions about 1441 01:26:48,078 --> 01:26:49,621 where it comes from his clothes, 1442 01:26:49,788 --> 01:26:51,039 all consumers say: 1443 01:26:51,206 --> 01:26:55,169 "Sorry, it is not acceptable for someone to die while working". 1444 01:26:55,335 --> 01:26:58,505 We can not turn around and say. "Yeah, go do whatever you want." 1445 01:26:58,672 --> 01:27:01,383 It is too important, the sector is too important. 1446 01:27:01,550 --> 01:27:06,013 Have too much impact and effect on millions of people around the world, 1447 01:27:06,180 --> 01:27:08,015 and common resources. 1448 01:27:13,979 --> 01:27:16,106 We continue seeking happiness 1449 01:27:16,273 --> 01:27:18,233 consumption of thing? 1450 01:27:19,067 --> 01:27:22,613 Are we going to be satisfied with a system that makes us feel rich, 1451 01:27:22,779 --> 01:27:25,490 while leaving our desperately poor world? 1452 01:27:25,991 --> 01:27:27,826 Will we continue to turn a blind eye 1453 01:27:27,993 --> 01:27:30,329 to the lives of those who are behind our clothes? 1454 01:27:30,495 --> 01:27:33,749 Or will there be a turning point, a new chapter in our history, 1455 01:27:33,916 --> 01:27:36,960 when together we begin to make a real change, 1456 01:27:37,127 --> 01:27:42,049 to remember that all the clothes we wear was made by human hands? 1457 01:27:42,758 --> 01:27:45,594 Amidst all the challenges we face today, 1458 01:27:45,761 --> 01:27:48,138 despite all the problems that seem to excel 1459 01:27:48,305 --> 01:27:50,015 and beyond our control, 1460 01:27:50,182 --> 01:27:51,767 maybe we could start here, 1461 01:27:52,100 --> 01:27:53,685 clothing. 1462 01:27:56,396 --> 01:28:01,318 **Like, Share and Follow our Instagram @Layarkaca21indo.id for Support**