1
00:00:46,922 --> 00:00:50,176
I watch my 16-month-old son,
and he's fearless,

2
00:00:50,300 --> 00:00:54,146
and he wants to just walk out
into the shore break.

3
00:00:56,807 --> 00:00:59,105
I mean, there's something
so interesting about that,

4
00:00:59,226 --> 00:01:02,196
to watch him just stare at the ocean,
stare at waves coming in,

5
00:01:02,312 --> 00:01:06,533
and watch them just crash on the shore,
and that's super entertaining.

6
00:01:12,072 --> 00:01:14,700
So much of it is just, you know,
you put your feet in the water,

7
00:01:14,825 --> 00:01:19,126
and you feel your toes sink
into the sand, and to feel that draw,

8
00:01:19,246 --> 00:01:23,467
the pull of the tides
and the surge of the shore break...

9
00:01:23,584 --> 00:01:25,586
You know, and you want to go out deeper.

10
00:01:42,603 --> 00:01:46,858
You could live for three months
on 100 bucks.

11
00:01:46,982 --> 00:01:49,110
We didn't think of it
as any kind of a culture.

12
00:01:49,234 --> 00:01:52,613
We just thought of it as like,
"Aren't we lucky to be doing this?"

13
00:01:59,244 --> 00:02:01,417
There was less than 15 chairlifts
in the world,

14
00:02:01,580 --> 00:02:04,675
and I bought my first pair of skis
for two dollars.

15
00:02:11,798 --> 00:02:14,768
We were kind of disenfranchised
from society.

16
00:02:14,885 --> 00:02:18,389
I mean, we had totally different
lifestyles than our parents.

17
00:02:23,477 --> 00:02:26,356
It was obvious
that this was going to go someplace,

18
00:02:26,521 --> 00:02:30,401
but, man, we were like broke hippies.

19
00:02:35,322 --> 00:02:39,043
We were kind of on the low rung
of the totem pole.

20
00:02:39,201 --> 00:02:44,549
You were kind of an outlaw,
kind of an outcast.

21
00:02:45,582 --> 00:02:48,085
And there was no future in that.

22
00:03:28,542 --> 00:03:35,266
You're 100% focused on what
you're doing right now, this instant.

23
00:03:35,424 --> 00:03:39,270
This instant is the most
important thing in all of your life.

24
00:03:41,596 --> 00:03:45,942
The past is the past, and the future...
Well, who knows what's coming?

25
00:05:29,830 --> 00:05:34,427
Somehow, every time you do it,
at whatever level,

26
00:05:34,543 --> 00:05:37,968
I mean, whether it's your first day

27
00:05:38,088 --> 00:05:40,887
or you've been doing it
your whole life...

28
00:05:41,883 --> 00:05:47,515
It somehow manages to free you
from a lot of the things in life

29
00:05:47,639 --> 00:05:51,485
that are going to try and sink you,
try and drag you down,

30
00:05:51,601 --> 00:05:56,653
that are going to try and make you
unhappy or negative.

31
00:05:57,941 --> 00:06:00,785
It somehow allows you
to leave all that behind

32
00:06:00,902 --> 00:06:06,784
for maybe just a moment,
but sometimes that moment's enough.

33
00:06:12,372 --> 00:06:16,718
It's a basic instinct of a human
being, his search for freedom.

34
00:06:16,835 --> 00:06:22,558
And still the search for freedom
is within all of us.

35
00:06:25,010 --> 00:06:28,514
Whether you're young or old,
male or female, it's the same thing.

36
00:06:28,638 --> 00:06:30,766
It's that thrill of the first ride,

37
00:06:30,891 --> 00:06:34,612
and once it gets under your skin,
you can never stop.

38
00:06:37,188 --> 00:06:42,160
We would all be in prison. I think.

39
00:06:42,986 --> 00:06:45,080
If you're kind of a misfit kid
and you want to rebel,

40
00:06:45,196 --> 00:06:47,290
you need a place to do that
in a positive way.

41
00:06:47,449 --> 00:06:49,417
Some guys grab skateboards and did it.

42
00:06:49,534 --> 00:06:52,663
Other guys grabbed climbing ropes
and came up here.

43
00:06:55,999 --> 00:06:59,469
My number-one goal
was to cover the Earth with bikes.

44
00:06:59,586 --> 00:07:02,430
You know, it's going to happen.
This is going to happen.

45
00:07:02,547 --> 00:07:04,766
There's no doubt.
It's just a matter of time.

46
00:07:13,934 --> 00:07:17,063
To me, being in the wilderness
is what it's all about.

47
00:07:17,187 --> 00:07:21,363
Wilderness is the battery
that recharges all of your energy.

48
00:07:21,524 --> 00:07:23,902
Gives us life, gives us inspiration.

49
00:07:24,027 --> 00:07:29,204
You're touching it. You're feeling it.
You're a part of the cliff.

50
00:07:30,200 --> 00:07:36,628
You understand the power of this thing
that you're interacting with.

51
00:07:41,169 --> 00:07:43,843
I think what motivated me
when I was young

52
00:07:43,964 --> 00:07:47,138
and what motivates me now
are basically the same things.

53
00:07:47,258 --> 00:07:51,559
That sense of glide,
and that sense of weightlessness.

54
00:07:51,680 --> 00:07:54,274
There's a host of sports now
that didn't used to exist,

55
00:07:54,391 --> 00:07:56,268
and they all have that same sensation

56
00:07:56,393 --> 00:08:00,023
that is sort of core
to a lot of people's nature.

57
00:08:02,565 --> 00:08:04,863
Adventure, to me,

58
00:08:04,985 --> 00:08:08,910
is just getting out of your comfort zone
and going into the unknown.

59
00:08:09,030 --> 00:08:17,165
That's where I feel every emotion
of life and feel the most alive.

60
00:08:25,422 --> 00:08:29,052
Most sports are a form of art.
It's no different than an artist

61
00:08:29,175 --> 00:08:32,054
having a big piece of canvas
and a paintbrush.

62
00:08:32,178 --> 00:08:36,399
Having a skateboard and going out
in the city is a similar thing.

63
00:08:36,558 --> 00:08:39,027
Skateboarding happens
to be one of those sports

64
00:08:39,144 --> 00:08:42,239
that allows you to push pretty far
into a creative place.

65
00:08:55,285 --> 00:08:58,164
Well, I just wanted to see what it felt
like to be fifth gear, pinned,

66
00:08:58,288 --> 00:09:00,336
and just sail in the air
as long as I could.

67
00:09:00,457 --> 00:09:03,210
It just seemed like such a great idea.

68
00:09:21,144 --> 00:09:24,148
When I started surfing,
there were maybe, you know,

69
00:09:24,272 --> 00:09:27,867
not more than a thousand or two surfers
in the world, for sure.

70
00:09:27,984 --> 00:09:30,237
So we felt very, very elite

71
00:09:30,361 --> 00:09:35,162
because we knew about this thing
that the mainstream had no idea existed.

72
00:09:37,077 --> 00:09:41,423
Surfing was the antithesis of organized
social behavior when it began.

73
00:09:42,874 --> 00:09:45,593
See all those guys in their cars
leaving for their nine-to-five?

74
00:09:45,710 --> 00:09:47,633
Who's got it right, them or us?

75
00:09:48,505 --> 00:09:52,726
And that was the question.
That was the question.

76
00:10:05,897 --> 00:10:12,872
A bum is somebody who won't work,
and I've never worked, so that fits.

77
00:10:14,072 --> 00:10:18,498
If you love what you're doing,
it isn't work. It's fun.

78
00:10:18,660 --> 00:10:22,290
I made my first movie in '49, '50.

79
00:10:22,413 --> 00:10:25,917
I did all the photography,
all the editing, stole the music,

80
00:10:26,042 --> 00:10:30,343
booked the shows, got the ski clubs
to put it on, designed the posters.

81
00:10:31,339 --> 00:10:34,468
I showed up on time, set up
the projector, set up the screen,

82
00:10:34,634 --> 00:10:37,183
set up the microphone and the PA system,

83
00:10:37,303 --> 00:10:40,022
and narrated the show live.

84
00:10:40,140 --> 00:10:41,687
110 cities in one year.

85
00:11:04,122 --> 00:11:06,875
I made movies of people skiing.

86
00:11:07,000 --> 00:11:09,298
Now, of course they said,
"Who is going to watch that?"

87
00:11:09,419 --> 00:11:12,673
They were right in a lot of cases,
because there was many times,

88
00:11:12,797 --> 00:11:14,265
I can't tell you how many,

89
00:11:14,382 --> 00:11:18,478
where I showed up in a high school
auditorium, 1,000 seats, 1200 seats,

90
00:11:18,595 --> 00:11:21,269
and there'd be eight or ten people there
and that was all.

91
00:11:21,431 --> 00:11:24,230
But those eight or ten people,
I really screwed up their lives,

92
00:11:24,350 --> 00:11:28,071
because at least two or three of them
took up skiing.

93
00:12:47,141 --> 00:12:50,190
We all tried to figure out
something we could do

94
00:12:50,311 --> 00:12:53,315
that we could stay at the beach
and live how we wanted to live.

95
00:12:55,817 --> 00:12:57,945
I mean, obviously, like,
a surfer would rather live

96
00:12:58,069 --> 00:13:01,164
in an expand-o trailer
on a perfect point break

97
00:13:01,281 --> 00:13:03,124
than have a mansion in Beverly Hills

98
00:13:03,241 --> 00:13:05,790
with 45 servants and eight Rolls Royces.

99
00:13:05,910 --> 00:13:08,914
I mean, it's just
where your priorities are.

100
00:13:10,206 --> 00:13:14,882
At the time, if you go, "I'm a surfer,"
they go, "Oh, God, poor guy."

101
00:13:15,003 --> 00:13:18,974
The high school I went to had 3,000
kids, and I was the only surfer.

102
00:13:19,090 --> 00:13:21,809
- And where was that?
- That was in Long Beach.

103
00:13:24,846 --> 00:13:27,474
In 1959, the movie "Gidget" came out,

104
00:13:27,640 --> 00:13:33,318
and surfing went from just a small
amount of surfers, trace amount,

105
00:13:33,438 --> 00:13:36,487
to several million by '63.

106
00:13:36,607 --> 00:13:41,864
The Endless Summer came out in 1964,
'65, and opened in Kansas City.

107
00:13:41,988 --> 00:13:43,706
And there were guys driving cars around

108
00:13:43,865 --> 00:13:46,744
with surfboards sticking out the trunk
that had never seen the ocean.

109
00:13:55,001 --> 00:13:57,129
"Endless Summer"
showed the rest of the world

110
00:13:57,253 --> 00:13:58,550
what surfing was really like,

111
00:13:58,671 --> 00:14:01,766
and it was correct
for the people that were in it.

112
00:14:01,924 --> 00:14:03,972
It entertained a general audience

113
00:14:04,135 --> 00:14:06,604
who didn't know
anything about the sport.

114
00:14:06,721 --> 00:14:08,723
It's just a home movie.
You just shoot it,

115
00:14:08,890 --> 00:14:12,645
and then when you get home,
you look at the footage and edit it.

116
00:14:12,769 --> 00:14:14,237
But that's what I'd always done.

117
00:14:14,354 --> 00:14:21,329
We shot, edited, narrated,
not because I thought I was good at it.

118
00:14:21,444 --> 00:14:25,574
It was the only one I could afford
that would work for 50 cents an hour.

119
00:14:27,116 --> 00:14:30,711
Every time a new movie would
come out, you'd go to the opening,

120
00:14:30,870 --> 00:14:33,749
and it was a gathering of the clan.

121
00:14:33,915 --> 00:14:36,759
What the surfers found in them
that was so compelling

122
00:14:36,876 --> 00:14:39,755
was what other good surfers looked
like, what they were doing.

123
00:14:39,921 --> 00:14:42,765
So they were the basic form
of communication.

124
00:14:42,924 --> 00:14:46,269
And the surf magazines came along
in the early '60s,

125
00:14:46,386 --> 00:14:48,730
and it was the beginning
of the lifestyle culture.

126
00:14:48,930 --> 00:14:51,353
It was the first time
they'd had a language

127
00:14:51,474 --> 00:14:56,401
and a dress code and behavior
that left where you did it

128
00:14:56,521 --> 00:14:58,944
and was taken to school,
or wherever you went.

129
00:14:59,065 --> 00:15:01,784
And then the funny thing
about surfing is,

130
00:15:01,901 --> 00:15:03,619
is that it spawned skateboarding.

131
00:15:03,736 --> 00:15:07,661
And then skateboarding urbanized
and came back and influenced surfing.

132
00:15:07,782 --> 00:15:11,912
So there's all kinds
of cultural cross-pollination.

133
00:15:12,912 --> 00:15:16,166
The clothing industry caught hold
in the early '70s,

134
00:15:16,290 --> 00:15:18,839
and this thing went ballistic.

135
00:15:22,296 --> 00:15:24,799
If you were to ask me back
then if we were going to have

136
00:15:24,966 --> 00:15:28,846
the largest surf-skate-snow
industry company ever,

137
00:15:29,011 --> 00:15:33,016
I'd tell you, no, not a chance, no way.

138
00:15:35,059 --> 00:15:38,233
It's really not about any one person,
never has been.

139
00:15:38,354 --> 00:15:41,608
I always call myself just a humble
board short maker so here we are.

140
00:15:41,732 --> 00:15:43,951
Let's talk a little bit about you.

141
00:15:44,068 --> 00:15:45,661
OK.

142
00:15:46,696 --> 00:15:49,950
I lived in a little house in Newport.
We had no money.

143
00:15:50,074 --> 00:15:52,918
I had a Volkswagen van. That was
our biggest asset in the company.

144
00:15:53,035 --> 00:15:56,380
At least we could drive around
and make things happen.

145
00:15:56,497 --> 00:15:58,670
I had no business being in business.

146
00:15:58,833 --> 00:16:00,881
I had no idea how to start something.

147
00:16:01,043 --> 00:16:04,422
I thought my business experience would
be to just go to work for somebody

148
00:16:04,547 --> 00:16:06,015
and get a paycheck and learn.

149
00:16:06,174 --> 00:16:09,599
So we really had to make it up
as we went along,

150
00:16:09,719 --> 00:16:13,519
just driving around town all day long
finding fabric, Velcro, snaps.

151
00:16:13,639 --> 00:16:17,519
We'd get about 24 pairs
out of production every day.

152
00:16:17,643 --> 00:16:19,361
I'd put the snaps in every pair.

153
00:16:19,479 --> 00:16:23,985
And we'd put them in my Volkswagen van,
and drive to an account

154
00:16:24,108 --> 00:16:26,031
who would take
as many as we could supply.

155
00:16:27,653 --> 00:16:29,576
I thought,
"All right, well, this sounds fun."

156
00:16:29,697 --> 00:16:33,497
I can hang out at the beach.
I can keep surfing.

157
00:16:33,618 --> 00:16:36,588
I have this little project,
do it for a year or two,

158
00:16:36,704 --> 00:16:39,207
and then I'm going to go
to graduate school. That was my plan.

159
00:16:54,263 --> 00:16:57,688
You know, when I was young,
climbing saved our lives.

160
00:16:57,808 --> 00:17:00,357
We had nothing to do
with corporate America.

161
00:17:00,478 --> 00:17:04,073
I mean, this is the '60s.
We just said no to a lot of that stuff.

162
00:17:04,190 --> 00:17:08,320
We had a counterculture lifestyle
and made our own way.

163
00:17:08,444 --> 00:17:10,367
We really were proud of the fact

164
00:17:10,488 --> 00:17:13,583
that climbing had
no economic value in society.

165
00:17:13,699 --> 00:17:15,701
That was great.

166
00:17:44,772 --> 00:17:47,446
When we were doing big walls
in Yosemite and stuff,

167
00:17:47,567 --> 00:17:50,992
hardly anything had been done.
So you didn't repeat routes.

168
00:17:51,153 --> 00:17:54,327
I mean, why repeat a route
when you can go do a new route?

169
00:17:58,244 --> 00:18:00,463
I think the curious common bond
that we all had

170
00:18:00,580 --> 00:18:04,551
is a passion to do something
with no outside motivation.

171
00:18:04,667 --> 00:18:05,964
It was more from the inside.

172
00:18:06,127 --> 00:18:08,801
Because you weren't going
to get famous about it.

173
00:18:08,921 --> 00:18:12,425
You weren't going to get paid for it,
no way, no how.

174
00:18:15,094 --> 00:18:17,938
When you first started
coming into this place,

175
00:18:18,097 --> 00:18:20,850
it was really intriguing about
the lifestyle and the characters.

176
00:18:20,975 --> 00:18:22,818
It just seemed
like an array of characters.

177
00:18:22,935 --> 00:18:24,983
You've got to remember,
it was in the early '70s.

178
00:18:25,146 --> 00:18:28,491
There was a whole revolution of things
going on in mainstream society

179
00:18:28,608 --> 00:18:33,364
of protesting wars, you know,
hippie generation and all that.

180
00:18:33,487 --> 00:18:35,785
It seemed like everything
was an adventure around here.

181
00:18:35,906 --> 00:18:39,456
Every step you were taking
had an inspiration of the unknown

182
00:18:39,577 --> 00:18:41,579
and the excitement just to be here.

183
00:18:52,965 --> 00:18:55,809
If you go back
in the history of bicycles,

184
00:18:55,926 --> 00:18:59,430
over 100 years ago,
people rode nothing but unpaved roads.

185
00:18:59,555 --> 00:19:00,522
So one could say,

186
00:19:00,640 --> 00:19:04,895
"Well, off-road riding,
that started when bicycles started,"

187
00:19:05,019 --> 00:19:07,397
which now everybody takes for granted.

188
00:19:07,563 --> 00:19:12,535
But back in the '60s, '70s,
it was a radical proposition.

189
00:19:16,530 --> 00:19:20,080
There was this whole place
where people would go to, this shrine,

190
00:19:20,242 --> 00:19:24,497
where it was so close
to a major crazy city, San Francisco,

191
00:19:24,622 --> 00:19:29,469
yet at the same time
you could get so far away.

192
00:19:29,585 --> 00:19:33,886
The golden key was this thing
called a balloon tire bike,

193
00:19:34,006 --> 00:19:37,260
and originally it was, you know,
found objects.

194
00:19:37,385 --> 00:19:40,855
It was bikes that were found
in second-hand stores

195
00:19:40,971 --> 00:19:44,521
and, you know, the Goodwill or dumps.

196
00:19:46,602 --> 00:19:49,025
What happened here was
a mongrelized bike.

197
00:19:49,230 --> 00:19:52,279
I mean, some people,
half the people would spit on it

198
00:19:52,441 --> 00:19:54,990
and say, "This is a piece of junk.
Are you out of your mind?"

199
00:19:55,111 --> 00:20:00,242
And the other half would say, "That's
what I want! I need that thing."

200
00:20:07,123 --> 00:20:08,215
I was lucky enough

201
00:20:08,332 --> 00:20:11,757
to have met a couple of the first
windsurfers in Hawaii in 1974.

202
00:20:11,877 --> 00:20:16,348
I wasn't big enough or strong enough
to get the sail out of the water.

203
00:20:16,465 --> 00:20:18,763
I was 11 years old,
weighed, like, 72lbs.

204
00:20:23,556 --> 00:20:25,308
I graduated from high school in 1981,

205
00:20:25,433 --> 00:20:28,152
and that's the year
the sport turned pro.

206
00:20:28,269 --> 00:20:30,692
So I deferred admissions to university.

207
00:20:30,813 --> 00:20:33,612
I said, OK, I'll see what being
a pro windsurfer might be,

208
00:20:33,733 --> 00:20:35,485
because there weren't any at that point.

209
00:20:38,279 --> 00:20:41,078
When you first started skating,
especially in the '80s,

210
00:20:41,240 --> 00:20:45,711
or even the '70s,
skaters were outcasts. It wasn't cool.

211
00:20:45,828 --> 00:20:48,502
When I was in high school,
I got ridiculed for skating.

212
00:20:48,664 --> 00:20:50,632
There were only
two other skaters in my school.

213
00:20:50,750 --> 00:20:52,423
We just kept our head down, did our work

214
00:20:52,543 --> 00:20:54,341
and bolted as soon as the bell rang.

215
00:21:03,679 --> 00:21:10,483
I got into it in its early days
from before we had bindings,

216
00:21:10,644 --> 00:21:12,988
before it was allowed at ski resorts.

217
00:21:13,105 --> 00:21:14,857
The vibe in the early days was like,

218
00:21:14,982 --> 00:21:16,655
"You can never make a living
doing that."

219
00:21:16,776 --> 00:21:21,122
There was no such thing as a snowboard
industry or a pro snowboarder.

220
00:21:50,893 --> 00:21:53,567
I left school and the whole thing.

221
00:21:53,687 --> 00:21:59,114
Left at 16 to come up here.
I did not feel like I was smart.

222
00:21:59,235 --> 00:22:02,079
That was some of the side effects
of being in a situation

223
00:22:02,196 --> 00:22:06,167
where you're being given
an A, B, C, D, or F.

224
00:22:08,369 --> 00:22:13,921
And you convince yourself that you're
not as good as, you're less than.

225
00:22:14,041 --> 00:22:17,966
But at the same time, I realized
something very curious for myself,

226
00:22:18,087 --> 00:22:20,840
that I had a very strong connection
to nature.

227
00:22:23,342 --> 00:22:26,687
Basically, rock climbing
became a way of life.

228
00:22:28,556 --> 00:22:30,274
Now, who would have thought?

229
00:23:13,267 --> 00:23:14,234
I was a youth.

230
00:23:14,393 --> 00:23:16,942
What I recognize is you're willing
to almost do anything

231
00:23:17,062 --> 00:23:19,030
to just know who you are
and where you're at.

232
00:23:19,148 --> 00:23:20,491
And with youthful enthusiasm,

233
00:23:20,608 --> 00:23:22,906
they're willing to try it
just for the adventure of it,

234
00:23:23,027 --> 00:23:25,405
for the initiation
into something that...

235
00:23:25,529 --> 00:23:28,282
Who knows what it is?
It might be a gang. I don't know.

236
00:23:38,083 --> 00:23:40,506
And I tell them that you had to do
something to get in here,

237
00:23:40,628 --> 00:23:42,050
even to get locked up.

238
00:23:44,965 --> 00:23:47,593
Now you know where you're at.
What are you going to do about it?

239
00:23:50,679 --> 00:23:53,603
What I got to experience as a kid
on a 20-day backpacking trip,

240
00:23:53,724 --> 00:23:55,692
hiking to the top of peaks and things,

241
00:23:55,809 --> 00:24:00,440
is that somehow your imagination
will catch something,

242
00:24:00,606 --> 00:24:05,032
and you might get that miracle of life
that is "anything's possible."

243
00:24:18,958 --> 00:24:20,551
All right, gentlemen.

244
00:24:20,668 --> 00:24:22,670
- Have fun.
- Good luck riding!

245
00:24:22,795 --> 00:24:25,594
I fell in love with skateboarding
and surfing early on.

246
00:24:25,714 --> 00:24:28,467
Just getting to the beach
was a huge adventure.

247
00:24:28,592 --> 00:24:33,598
Oftentimes, it was hitchhike
45 minutes away, hide in the bushes,

248
00:24:33,722 --> 00:24:35,770
sleep on the beach
so you're there in the morning.

249
00:24:35,891 --> 00:24:40,362
I was seeking out
the optimal places to surf and skate,

250
00:24:40,521 --> 00:24:45,743
and had those adventurous ethos
from the beginning.

251
00:24:52,741 --> 00:24:55,620
Going into these places,

252
00:24:55,786 --> 00:24:58,414
you fill your backpack with everything
you think you might need,

253
00:24:58,580 --> 00:25:01,880
and you walk into the wilderness.

254
00:25:03,127 --> 00:25:07,428
And to go out there and really walk
through these mountains,

255
00:25:07,589 --> 00:25:10,593
one wrong call
could have dire consequences.

256
00:25:10,718 --> 00:25:14,689
It's super important
to be really present-moment.

257
00:25:26,316 --> 00:25:28,739
And it is a process
getting into the flow,

258
00:25:28,861 --> 00:25:30,955
to, like, really, really
get into the flow.

259
00:25:32,072 --> 00:25:34,700
I'm really firing on all cylinders,

260
00:25:34,825 --> 00:25:40,707
and reading, like, every little nuance
that the mountains are doing.

261
00:25:44,251 --> 00:25:46,879
And when I come back
from time in the mountains,

262
00:25:47,004 --> 00:25:52,261
whether it's a day or a week
or a month, I respect life,

263
00:25:52,384 --> 00:25:55,888
but I feel like
it's really important to live life.

264
00:26:32,382 --> 00:26:38,640
Every day, I'm involved in a pathway
that's a critical pathway.

265
00:26:38,764 --> 00:26:43,611
Someone's life depends on the decisions
and the actions that I take.

266
00:26:46,980 --> 00:26:50,826
And I saw myself
on a predetermined pathway.

267
00:26:50,943 --> 00:26:54,914
There is a medicine career pathway.

268
00:26:55,030 --> 00:27:00,412
And when I was taken
into the wilderness for the first time,

269
00:27:00,536 --> 00:27:04,336
that disrupted my pathway.
It disrupted my life.

270
00:27:04,456 --> 00:27:08,632
It was a liberating circumstance
that just happened

271
00:27:08,752 --> 00:27:16,261
to explode my comfortable life
into a million little pieces.

272
00:27:18,178 --> 00:27:22,684
The wilderness opened up
a whole new possibility for me.

273
00:27:22,850 --> 00:27:25,649
It alerted me to the fact that there was

274
00:27:25,769 --> 00:27:32,323
another, deeper, more multidimensional
person inside this doctor.

275
00:27:37,531 --> 00:27:40,660
I get inspired by an idea

276
00:27:40,784 --> 00:27:44,209
and the challenge, the excitement for me

277
00:27:44,329 --> 00:27:49,381
is to make the idea,
the vision, a reality.

278
00:27:52,921 --> 00:27:54,969
I wanted to jump off, base jump,

279
00:27:55,132 --> 00:27:57,430
the highest cliff in the world,
the great Trango Tower.

280
00:28:07,019 --> 00:28:13,117
For me, all adventure is a metaphor
for the journey inside yourself,

281
00:28:13,233 --> 00:28:19,912
getting to know the darkest, remotest
corners of your own psyche.

282
00:28:21,575 --> 00:28:25,205
Sometimes that means going way,
way, way outside your comfort zone.

283
00:28:27,247 --> 00:28:33,550
So I started to pursue fear,
the mastery of fear.

284
00:28:40,802 --> 00:28:42,349
The thing that I've looked at,

285
00:28:42,471 --> 00:28:46,351
which is on a poster my sister gave
to me when I was a young kid,

286
00:28:46,475 --> 00:28:49,228
was a picture of a really big wave,
and there was a surfer on there.

287
00:28:49,394 --> 00:28:51,271
It said, "Face your fears,
live your dreams."

288
00:28:51,438 --> 00:28:56,069
That sat above my bed
from my early teens till I left home.

289
00:29:01,198 --> 00:29:04,372
That inspired me to work
the last 20 years of my life.

290
00:29:04,493 --> 00:29:07,667
Almost killed myself,
but facing my fears.

291
00:29:07,829 --> 00:29:14,508
My fears were fears of acceptance,
you know, and being worthy.

292
00:29:16,004 --> 00:29:21,056
I was someone that was always pushed
to "100% is all that's acceptable."

293
00:29:31,645 --> 00:29:34,524
Having that drive
to always push for the top,

294
00:29:34,648 --> 00:29:38,403
it's driven me to want
to jump further than anyone else.

295
00:29:42,698 --> 00:29:45,497
As a child I was the one in the block

296
00:29:45,659 --> 00:29:48,503
where the parents didn't want
their kids to hang out with me

297
00:29:48,620 --> 00:29:49,667
because I was crazy.

298
00:29:49,871 --> 00:29:53,091
But one thing I liked doing
was riding motorbikes.

299
00:29:53,208 --> 00:29:56,803
I was four years old
when I got my first motorcycle.

300
00:29:58,046 --> 00:30:01,095
And that became the next ten years.
We just traveled the circuit.

301
00:30:01,216 --> 00:30:02,968
We were doing all the state rounds,

302
00:30:03,093 --> 00:30:05,346
and eventually
the national championships.

303
00:30:09,266 --> 00:30:13,316
My dream has always been to jump
big jumps on my motorcycle.

304
00:30:14,563 --> 00:30:20,161
I've always looked to the top of
the pyramid as, like, that's the goal.

305
00:30:22,321 --> 00:30:24,198
I went to Evel Knievel's funeral.

306
00:30:24,323 --> 00:30:27,918
It was something that I just really
wanted to go to and pay my respects

307
00:30:28,035 --> 00:30:31,630
because I really felt
that we had some kind of tie.

308
00:30:31,747 --> 00:30:34,000
I stood in line to go up
and just kind of say a prayer

309
00:30:34,124 --> 00:30:37,219
and stood in front of him,
and, you know, kind of bowed my head.

310
00:30:37,336 --> 00:30:39,555
I just said, "Evel,
I want to follow in your footsteps

311
00:30:39,671 --> 00:30:42,675
and take the torch where you've left
it, and take it to a greater height

312
00:30:42,841 --> 00:30:44,718
and I want to do that
with your blessing."

313
00:30:44,885 --> 00:30:47,934
And when I said that,
there was this crazy rush of cold air.

314
00:30:48,055 --> 00:30:51,150
I can feel my hair on my whole body
standing up right now.

315
00:30:51,266 --> 00:30:53,485
It's like I feel like
I got the Knievel spirit in me.

316
00:30:53,602 --> 00:30:56,651
It's just like
I felt like he gave me his blessing.

317
00:31:10,702 --> 00:31:13,421
When we all got out of school,
it was like our skate gang.

318
00:31:13,538 --> 00:31:15,791
There was no age discrimination

319
00:31:15,957 --> 00:31:18,176
other than what my brother tried
to put on me.

320
00:31:18,293 --> 00:31:21,547
It was always an uphill battle to get
his approval for me to be around.

321
00:31:22,964 --> 00:31:24,807
Then I would also have
to impress his friends

322
00:31:24,966 --> 00:31:29,392
for them to also, you know, to stand me,
to be OK to be in the crew.

323
00:31:30,472 --> 00:31:33,100
So that drove me
to push myself quite a bit.

324
00:31:34,684 --> 00:31:37,904
When I was a kid, I used to sit
in class and draw ramps all the time,

325
00:31:38,021 --> 00:31:40,991
and I always had this vision
that ramps could be a lot bigger.

326
00:31:41,108 --> 00:31:43,236
You know, why were they
the size they were?

327
00:31:43,360 --> 00:31:46,739
I would sit there and brainstorm
new ideas of things I could do

328
00:31:46,905 --> 00:31:49,454
when I got out of school
on the ramp that day.

329
00:31:49,574 --> 00:31:52,544
When I think of a trick,
when I'm sitting at my house,

330
00:31:52,661 --> 00:31:54,129
I come down here and learn it.

331
00:31:55,247 --> 00:31:56,419
A lot of what I'm doing today,

332
00:31:56,540 --> 00:31:59,760
I fantasized about it
as a kid quite often.

333
00:32:02,379 --> 00:32:06,850
I was a bit of a daredevil as a kid.
Combine that with the creativity,

334
00:32:07,008 --> 00:32:09,852
and that's really the formula
of what makes me tick.

335
00:32:15,851 --> 00:32:18,400
When I started snowboarding,
I quit everything for it,

336
00:32:18,520 --> 00:32:20,272
and it was the only thing
I thought about.

337
00:32:20,397 --> 00:32:22,866
I was gonna move to Whistler,
be a professional snowboarder.

338
00:32:23,024 --> 00:32:26,244
Every decision I made was for that goal.

339
00:32:26,361 --> 00:32:28,489
I don't think I had that feeling
with anything else.

340
00:32:30,240 --> 00:32:31,583
So there was no B plan.

341
00:32:31,700 --> 00:32:34,294
There was no, "If it doesn't work out,
what's going to happen?"

342
00:32:34,411 --> 00:32:36,539
That was just the plan,
and it was going to work out.

343
00:33:03,523 --> 00:33:07,403
I don't know how to say it.
It's like I'm almost breathing.

344
00:33:08,403 --> 00:33:13,876
Like the best breath you can take
of full bliss and happiness.

345
00:33:15,285 --> 00:33:16,787
It's like magic.

346
00:33:23,001 --> 00:33:27,848
I do tow-in surfing, kite surfing.

347
00:33:28,006 --> 00:33:33,433
Surfing, stand-up surfing
and wind surfing.

348
00:33:56,660 --> 00:34:02,087
I've been riding with Kai Lenny
since he was nine years old

349
00:34:02,249 --> 00:34:06,220
and helping him through
the whole process of becoming a pro,

350
00:34:06,378 --> 00:34:09,973
and now being, basically,
the best in the world at stand-up,

351
00:34:10,131 --> 00:34:12,634
you know, an incredible windsurfer,
kiter, surfer.

352
00:34:12,759 --> 00:34:14,887
He's kind of like me,
where he does everything.

353
00:34:15,053 --> 00:34:18,648
You know, Robby, since
I was young, would always tell me,

354
00:34:18,807 --> 00:34:20,525
you're a product of your environment.

355
00:34:20,642 --> 00:34:23,896
I always knew what I wanted to do,
what I wanted to be.

356
00:34:54,134 --> 00:34:57,729
Looking at Robby for inspiration,
he's old enough to be my dad

357
00:34:57,846 --> 00:35:01,100
and he's still going,
stronger than ever.

358
00:35:01,224 --> 00:35:05,229
And he sometimes... I sometimes
feel like he's younger than me.

359
00:35:40,180 --> 00:35:41,523
Most people grow up.

360
00:35:41,640 --> 00:35:43,893
You get out of high school
and they stop playing.

361
00:35:44,017 --> 00:35:47,772
They lose that aspect of falling down
and getting back up

362
00:35:47,896 --> 00:35:51,275
and brushing yourself off
and doing it again as an adult.

363
00:35:51,399 --> 00:35:53,902
And I've never lost that.

364
00:35:54,027 --> 00:35:58,203
I'm still doing the same thing
that I was when I was 12 or 16 or 20.

365
00:35:58,323 --> 00:35:59,870
I think it's good for you.

366
00:36:12,921 --> 00:36:15,390
I like riding bikes.
Man, I like riding bikes.

367
00:36:15,507 --> 00:36:18,556
I was the thorough addict.
I was a road racer.

368
00:36:18,677 --> 00:36:20,554
And when I was 12 years old,

369
00:36:20,679 --> 00:36:25,025
I told myself, "I will never stop
doing this, no matter what."

370
00:36:29,938 --> 00:36:31,906
I wanted to spread this thing everywhere

371
00:36:32,023 --> 00:36:37,530
because I knew that we could just make
a lot of people so happy.

372
00:36:38,655 --> 00:36:44,003
The first year, we made 160 bikes.
The second year, we made 1,000 bikes.

373
00:36:44,119 --> 00:36:46,338
People lined up out the door.

374
00:36:47,997 --> 00:36:53,504
In 1983, for the first time in history,
you could walk into a bike shop

375
00:36:53,628 --> 00:36:56,757
and walk out with this fat-tired thing
called a mountain bike.

376
00:36:58,758 --> 00:37:01,602
In another ten years,
when someone would say "bike,"

377
00:37:01,720 --> 00:37:04,519
they'd actually mean a mountain bike.

378
00:38:26,554 --> 00:38:27,931
You go to this amazing park,

379
00:38:28,097 --> 00:38:31,692
there are two gigantic,
awesome artificial turf soccer fields.

380
00:38:31,810 --> 00:38:35,610
There's a gigantic, beautiful dirt
and grass baseball field.

381
00:38:35,730 --> 00:38:38,483
There's basketball courts.
There's a full swimming facility.

382
00:38:38,608 --> 00:38:40,110
Then there's a gigantic skate park.

383
00:38:40,235 --> 00:38:43,114
I think that says a lot
about the evolution of everything.

384
00:38:43,238 --> 00:38:46,993
In this kind of community, all those
sports are kind of at the same level.

385
00:38:47,992 --> 00:38:50,211
Skating is such an important part
of this community.

386
00:38:50,370 --> 00:38:53,419
So many kids are doing it,
we have to include that in our park.

387
00:39:06,386 --> 00:39:08,263
Action sports have become mainstream

388
00:39:08,429 --> 00:39:11,524
because as soon as we step
on a skateboard, on a surfboard,

389
00:39:11,641 --> 00:39:15,862
a motorcycle, a bike, it's on.

390
00:39:51,139 --> 00:39:55,064
I noticed that contemporary
youth adored and respected

391
00:39:55,184 --> 00:39:59,030
and revered these pro athletes,
pro skateboarders,

392
00:39:59,147 --> 00:40:03,118
in the same manner that they felt
about mainstream athletes.

393
00:40:03,234 --> 00:40:06,283
Whether it be a Michael Jordan
or a Tiger Woods.

394
00:40:07,864 --> 00:40:11,664
You now have, at least
at a competitive level,

395
00:40:11,784 --> 00:40:14,003
a ton of parallels
to these traditional...

396
00:40:14,120 --> 00:40:17,169
Whether it's soccer, football,
you name it.

397
00:40:17,290 --> 00:40:18,837
Today we watch the Olympics,

398
00:40:18,958 --> 00:40:24,431
and the number-one rated event at
the Olympics is halfpipe snowboarding.

399
00:40:24,547 --> 00:40:27,892
I don't think anyone thought
it would grow to that size.

400
00:40:29,636 --> 00:40:31,354
Now you have the first,

401
00:40:31,512 --> 00:40:33,731
or probably second by now,
generation of people

402
00:40:33,848 --> 00:40:36,852
whose expectations are
"I want to be a pro athlete."

403
00:40:38,019 --> 00:40:40,818
Ladies and gentlemen, you've just seen
some magnificent surfing

404
00:40:40,939 --> 00:40:43,783
out here in the Pacific Ocean
and Santa Clara River Mouth.

405
00:40:43,900 --> 00:40:45,902
Here with me I have Kelly Slater.

406
00:40:47,362 --> 00:40:50,536
Kelly comes along. He's this
beautiful little kid from Florida.

407
00:40:50,657 --> 00:40:53,752
We met him when he was...
I don't know, 15 or 16 years old.

408
00:40:53,868 --> 00:40:55,791
Walked up to us
at the trade show and says,

409
00:40:55,912 --> 00:40:58,085
"I'm going to be the best surfer
in the world one day."

410
00:40:58,247 --> 00:40:59,749
And we just looked at him. "Really?"

411
00:40:59,874 --> 00:41:03,174
Then other people told us that this is
the guy, and we're like, "OK."

412
00:41:18,851 --> 00:41:21,855
I think he stands head and shoulders
above anybody else.

413
00:41:21,980 --> 00:41:24,779
He was the guy that took it
from a core activity

414
00:41:24,899 --> 00:41:27,402
to a mainstream consciousness.

415
00:41:29,988 --> 00:41:32,332
Probably by the time
I was about ten or 12,

416
00:41:32,490 --> 00:41:36,211
I was pretty sure I'd be a pro surfer.
That's what I wanted to be.

417
00:41:36,327 --> 00:41:38,625
You know, I didn't know how,

418
00:41:38,746 --> 00:41:41,545
or if it was going to make a living
for me or anything like that,

419
00:41:41,666 --> 00:41:43,794
but I knew that was what I wanted to do.

420
00:41:51,009 --> 00:41:52,101
I woke up this morning

421
00:41:52,218 --> 00:41:55,392
and realized I had this long dream
about a barrel all night.

422
00:41:55,596 --> 00:41:57,143
And it's just... it's my passion.

423
00:41:57,265 --> 00:42:01,190
I don't know if there's anything
I would have been as passionate about.

424
00:42:15,825 --> 00:42:18,920
11-time World Champion
paddling in. He's up.

425
00:42:19,037 --> 00:42:21,961
There he goes, Kelly Slater in the pipe.

426
00:42:22,081 --> 00:42:24,459
Riding in the barrel, can he come out?

427
00:42:34,886 --> 00:42:36,729
It's basically a desire, you know?

428
00:42:36,846 --> 00:42:40,350
Having a passion for it
and having the desire to keep learning.

429
00:42:48,232 --> 00:42:49,950
No matter how much you think you know,

430
00:42:50,068 --> 00:42:53,322
there's a lot more that you don't know
than you do know,

431
00:42:53,446 --> 00:42:56,165
and if you keep that idea in your head,

432
00:42:56,282 --> 00:43:00,037
if you perceive surfing that way,
then you're always going to have fun.

433
00:43:00,161 --> 00:43:02,163
You're always going to keep
learning things.

434
00:43:07,251 --> 00:43:09,219
I mean, you look
at the young generation of kids

435
00:43:09,337 --> 00:43:13,092
and they're surfing a lot better
than we were at that age.

436
00:43:17,011 --> 00:43:20,641
With video and film, they could sit
there on a rainy day when it's flat

437
00:43:20,765 --> 00:43:22,688
and literally watch surfing all day.

438
00:43:22,809 --> 00:43:25,904
By watching something,
it's learning by example, you know.

439
00:43:26,020 --> 00:43:28,239
You're getting taught visually.

440
00:44:46,934 --> 00:44:49,232
As far as, like, videos,
that is so important.

441
00:44:49,353 --> 00:44:55,235
I think just as important, if not more
important as winning any contest.

442
00:44:55,359 --> 00:44:59,330
That's really where the progression
of skateboarding gets pushed to.

443
00:45:01,032 --> 00:45:04,411
People, they devote years
to making a video part.

444
00:45:04,535 --> 00:45:05,752
That's how important it is.

445
00:45:05,870 --> 00:45:09,170
All their efforts of skateboarding,
as a pro skater,

446
00:45:09,290 --> 00:45:12,590
if they're not competing, are going
to making an amazing video part,

447
00:45:12,752 --> 00:45:15,005
and breaking themselves off
in the process.

448
00:45:24,513 --> 00:45:28,188
That's what kids ask,
"How do you do this trick every try?"

449
00:45:28,309 --> 00:45:32,109
I go out there and I do it
every single day for this many years.

450
00:45:32,230 --> 00:45:35,109
You're eventually going to be able
to do it almost every single try.

451
00:45:35,233 --> 00:45:37,076
And, I mean, obviously it takes failing.

452
00:45:37,193 --> 00:45:41,118
It takes falling a lot to be able
to get to that point, you know,

453
00:45:41,239 --> 00:45:44,413
falling a lot, and falling hard,
and getting hurt, and all those things.

454
00:45:44,533 --> 00:45:46,752
But that's just part of the game.

455
00:46:01,259 --> 00:46:03,603
Yes! Finally.

456
00:46:05,346 --> 00:46:08,225
We're definitely
in the age of the sports vid.

457
00:46:08,349 --> 00:46:12,479
And I think it's changed
the sports big time.

458
00:46:12,603 --> 00:46:15,277
If you look at the films,
they are the history books.

459
00:46:15,398 --> 00:46:18,493
They do show you
what the progression is.

460
00:46:18,609 --> 00:46:24,616
The most important part of documenting
these sports are watching the films.

461
00:47:57,083 --> 00:48:01,429
What we've seen happen
probably in the last ten years

462
00:48:01,587 --> 00:48:04,966
is what we're living in right now,
the digital revolution.

463
00:48:05,091 --> 00:48:07,890
You never know you're inside
a revolution when you're living in it.

464
00:48:08,010 --> 00:48:09,728
Now, if you look back,

465
00:48:09,929 --> 00:48:14,184
it'll be like we're living
in the Wild West of the Internet.

466
00:48:14,308 --> 00:48:17,562
Cameras are shrinking
and getting better every day.

467
00:48:29,532 --> 00:48:31,580
The reason those shots are so amazing

468
00:48:31,700 --> 00:48:36,547
is because it truly puts you
in the perspective of the athlete.

469
00:48:36,664 --> 00:48:41,386
It just became the staple of how people
shared their sport adventures.

470
00:49:20,416 --> 00:49:23,215
When everything
got blown apart by the Internet,

471
00:49:23,335 --> 00:49:28,387
everybody started doing their web clips
and stuff, it became very different.

472
00:49:28,507 --> 00:49:31,306
It was more like the experience
of out on the road and traveling.

473
00:49:31,427 --> 00:49:34,727
The riding wasn't
the most intense or the craziest,

474
00:49:34,847 --> 00:49:39,068
but it was accessibility, and it was
about something anyone could do.

475
00:49:58,287 --> 00:50:00,210
It started when I was, like...

476
00:50:00,331 --> 00:50:03,961
The summer of, like, sixth grade
going into seventh grade.

477
00:50:04,084 --> 00:50:07,714
I wanted to surf every day that summer
to get better.

478
00:50:07,838 --> 00:50:10,091
Once the summer was over,
there was only 30 days left.

479
00:50:10,216 --> 00:50:12,810
I'm like, "OK, well, I'll make
it 100 days," and so I did 100 days.

480
00:50:13,010 --> 00:50:18,858
Then I decided, like, a year,
and then it was two years,

481
00:50:19,016 --> 00:50:22,737
and now I just did 1,000 days,
so I want to do three years now.

482
00:50:28,609 --> 00:50:30,236
Even if it's bad, I still have fun.

483
00:50:30,361 --> 00:50:35,458
Surfing just makes me so happy,
so it's good. Every day is a good day.

484
00:51:13,654 --> 00:51:16,203
We were in the water,
growing up, every single day,

485
00:51:16,323 --> 00:51:17,745
all day long, as much as we could.

486
00:51:17,866 --> 00:51:19,709
My parents never really
forced us to surf.

487
00:51:19,827 --> 00:51:23,582
It was just like, "Here's the beach,
do whatever you want."

488
00:51:23,706 --> 00:51:26,175
Here's some surfboards, boogie boards,
some sand toys.

489
00:51:26,292 --> 00:51:28,260
Like, basically, just have fun.

490
00:51:28,377 --> 00:51:31,802
And that's kind of where it started,
just sandcastles on the beach.

491
00:51:43,767 --> 00:51:46,566
I think my limits are a little
different than other people's limits.

492
00:51:46,687 --> 00:51:50,237
Other people's limits are maybe surf
bigger waves, surf more often,

493
00:51:50,357 --> 00:51:52,200
or, you know, learn new tricks.

494
00:51:52,318 --> 00:51:56,789
I just like to keep surfing the way
I like it, and that's just to have fun.

495
00:52:00,242 --> 00:52:02,870
For me, I think
pushing myself in my sport

496
00:52:02,995 --> 00:52:05,464
is maybe more about teaching people,

497
00:52:05,623 --> 00:52:08,046
and showing people
this amazing thing that we do,

498
00:52:08,208 --> 00:52:10,051
and putting a smile on their face.

499
00:52:10,169 --> 00:52:14,720
That's pushing my sport for me,
I guess. That's what it means to me.

500
00:52:16,300 --> 00:52:18,473
I remember the first wave I ever caught.

501
00:52:18,594 --> 00:52:23,020
You know, still to this day,
if I could explain the feeling,

502
00:52:23,182 --> 00:52:25,981
it would be like
what it feels like for me now,

503
00:52:26,143 --> 00:52:28,316
dropping into a huge wave at Jaws.

504
00:52:37,196 --> 00:52:42,498
Basically, you instantly feel like
nothing else in the world exists.

505
00:52:42,618 --> 00:52:47,340
Nothing else matters.
You're living in the moment.

506
00:52:52,336 --> 00:52:54,088
Big waves are relative, you know.

507
00:52:54,254 --> 00:52:58,475
I think everyone's a big-wave surfer
if the waves seem big to you.

508
00:52:58,592 --> 00:53:01,061
You know, that's... It's all relative.

509
00:53:05,933 --> 00:53:09,528
You just want to feel it again,
and you want to keep driving,

510
00:53:09,645 --> 00:53:13,570
keep going just to keep feeling
the same emotion every time,

511
00:53:13,691 --> 00:53:15,318
every time you skate.

512
00:53:16,652 --> 00:53:18,120
It's fun.

513
00:53:18,278 --> 00:53:22,328
I mean, I keep saying that,
but it really is that fun.

514
00:53:22,449 --> 00:53:27,580
And it's... I just can't describe it.

515
00:53:29,873 --> 00:53:36,381
You just feel like you're in the groove,
and you're just going with it.

516
00:53:36,505 --> 00:53:37,722
It's the best.

517
00:54:29,767 --> 00:54:32,611
I really don't put that much thought
about what I really want to do.

518
00:54:32,728 --> 00:54:38,861
I'm just trying to skate and have fun
and keep progressing the sport.

519
00:54:38,984 --> 00:54:42,909
I don't really know what to do
right now, because I'm just kind of...

520
00:54:43,071 --> 00:54:45,574
It's kind of the off-season
I guess, right now.

521
00:54:45,699 --> 00:54:49,704
There's really no off-season.
Just kind of always skating.

522
00:54:54,541 --> 00:54:58,136
When you're a kid, you get asked
this one particular question a lot.

523
00:54:59,505 --> 00:55:01,678
It really gets kind of annoying.

524
00:55:03,967 --> 00:55:06,971
"What do you want to be
when you grow up?"

525
00:55:07,095 --> 00:55:10,725
Now, adults are hoping for answers
like, "I want to be an astronaut."

526
00:55:10,849 --> 00:55:13,898
Or "I want to be a neurosurgeon."

527
00:55:14,019 --> 00:55:16,693
You adults and your imaginations.

528
00:55:16,814 --> 00:55:20,444
Kids, they're most likely to answer
with "pro skateboarder,"

529
00:55:20,609 --> 00:55:22,737
"surfer," or "Minecraft player."

530
00:55:22,861 --> 00:55:26,240
I asked my little brother, and he said,
"Seriously, dude? I'm ten."

531
00:55:26,406 --> 00:55:29,660
"I have no idea. Probably a pro skier.
Let's go get some ice cream."

532
00:55:31,411 --> 00:55:34,836
See, us kids are going to answer
with something we're stoked on,

533
00:55:34,957 --> 00:55:38,461
what we think is cool,
what we have experience with.

534
00:55:38,585 --> 00:55:42,055
But if you ask a little kid,
sometimes you'll get the best answer,

535
00:55:42,172 --> 00:55:45,767
something so simple, so obvious,
and really profound.

536
00:55:47,344 --> 00:55:49,972
"When I grow up, I want to be happy."

537
00:55:58,647 --> 00:56:04,154
This is where I'm really happy.
Powder days. Skiing, to me, is freedom.

538
00:56:05,237 --> 00:56:08,207
I look at this
and see a thousand possibilities,

539
00:56:08,365 --> 00:56:10,993
and it's a good metaphor for my life.

540
00:56:20,419 --> 00:56:24,970
People are celebrating
just what action sports really entail,

541
00:56:25,090 --> 00:56:27,513
much more than just the technical side.

542
00:56:27,634 --> 00:56:31,480
It's just more about the opportunity
it gives you to be out on the mountains,

543
00:56:31,597 --> 00:56:34,441
be out in the oceans.
It's just an amazing experience.

544
00:56:42,024 --> 00:56:45,619
At the center of the whole industry,
there is still that core,

545
00:56:45,736 --> 00:56:48,285
that very limited,
very small group of people

546
00:56:48,447 --> 00:56:52,077
who really continue to push progression
and really take us to the next level.

547
00:56:52,200 --> 00:56:54,953
Because that's really,
at the end of the day,

548
00:56:55,078 --> 00:56:58,048
that's really where
a lot of the new ideas are born.

549
00:57:22,147 --> 00:57:24,525
You always kind of have
in the back of your mind

550
00:57:24,691 --> 00:57:28,070
what your biggest passions are,
and your biggest goals,

551
00:57:28,195 --> 00:57:29,447
and that's what you live for.

552
00:57:29,571 --> 00:57:33,997
And for people like me,
that's jumping off stuff,

553
00:57:34,117 --> 00:57:36,290
sliding down snow as fast as I can,

554
00:57:36,453 --> 00:57:40,174
finding interesting, creative ways
to have fun in the mountains.

555
00:57:46,838 --> 00:57:48,761
Skis, normally,
are the fattest at the tip

556
00:57:48,882 --> 00:57:50,475
and they get skinny under your foot,

557
00:57:50,592 --> 00:57:53,311
and then they get fat again at the tail,
and these are the opposite.

558
00:57:53,470 --> 00:57:56,269
They're fattest in the middle
and they get skinnier at the top.

559
00:57:56,390 --> 00:58:00,236
I took that shape idea
from water sports,

560
00:58:00,352 --> 00:58:02,980
from surfboards and from wake-boards
and from water skis.

561
00:58:04,231 --> 00:58:06,029
So finally I just decided, you know,

562
00:58:06,149 --> 00:58:09,494
I'd grab these water skis
and mount them up.

563
00:58:09,611 --> 00:58:11,989
These are jumping water skis
from the '70s.

564
00:58:42,853 --> 00:58:44,025
I put those things on,

565
00:58:44,146 --> 00:58:48,822
and then all of a sudden
these huge double doors just went...

566
00:58:49,860 --> 00:58:53,114
And I was like, "Look what we can
do now. Look what I can do!"

567
00:58:58,201 --> 00:59:01,831
To be successful,
you've got to be learning new stuff.

568
00:59:01,955 --> 00:59:03,127
You've got to be inventing.

569
00:59:03,248 --> 00:59:08,550
You've got to be pushing the boundaries,
going bigger, flipping more,

570
00:59:08,670 --> 00:59:12,300
spinning more, going higher.
That's the way you make your mark.

571
00:59:35,906 --> 00:59:41,083
I think that is solely what drives me,
the land of the infinite possibility,

572
00:59:41,244 --> 00:59:44,214
knowing if I go to work today, I can do
something I've never done before.

573
00:59:48,293 --> 00:59:52,514
Just like skateboarding as a sport,
when the physical aspect of it evolves,

574
00:59:52,714 --> 00:59:54,887
I believe that the environments
that we skate on

575
00:59:55,008 --> 00:59:58,308
also should evolve
with the skateboarding itself.

576
00:59:58,428 --> 01:00:01,307
The ultimate goal is to get to
where motocross and snowboarding's at,

577
01:00:01,431 --> 01:00:04,355
as far as magnitude of jumps
and distance and heights,

578
01:00:04,476 --> 01:00:06,945
and the caliber and scale
of the air time.

579
01:00:11,149 --> 01:00:14,119
There's no boundary. There's no limit.
We haven't found it yet.

580
01:00:34,131 --> 01:00:42,016
It's crazy because I'd always watch
the videos of Tony doing 900s.

581
01:00:42,139 --> 01:00:45,484
It only took just one person
to have the great idea

582
01:00:45,642 --> 01:00:48,361
to try to take it up a notch each time.

583
01:00:48,478 --> 01:00:52,324
I guess I was that person on this one.

584
01:01:11,793 --> 01:01:14,763
Somebody asked me, like, ten years ago,

585
01:01:14,880 --> 01:01:17,053
what's the biggest advance
in the mountain bike?

586
01:01:17,174 --> 01:01:18,892
I said, "The trail."

587
01:01:19,009 --> 01:01:23,560
That whole technique, artistry,

588
01:01:23,722 --> 01:01:28,193
has seeped out and is
just starting to cover the Earth.

589
01:01:35,233 --> 01:01:39,454
The ultimate trail-building started out
of Vancouver and the B.C. area.

590
01:01:39,571 --> 01:01:40,914
The trail builders up there,

591
01:01:41,031 --> 01:01:44,376
some of them have become
sort of like underground cult heroes.

592
01:02:44,302 --> 01:02:46,225
When I'm not working at the hospital,

593
01:02:46,346 --> 01:02:54,481
I practice the same procedural basis
to go and do wingsuiting, climbing.

594
01:02:55,438 --> 01:02:59,284
I change the outfit of clothes
that I wear, I change the look,

595
01:02:59,401 --> 01:03:04,282
but the underlying process,
I think, is very similar.

596
01:03:12,122 --> 01:03:18,175
There is a thrill-seeking gene,
the DRD4 gene on chromosome 11.

597
01:03:18,295 --> 01:03:21,515
You can have
between two and 11 copies of that gene.

598
01:03:21,631 --> 01:03:24,726
If you have two copies,
you're a low-sensation seeker.

599
01:03:24,843 --> 01:03:29,144
If you have 11 copies,
you're a high-sensation seeker.

600
01:03:29,264 --> 01:03:31,141
And that's me. That's Heather.

601
01:03:31,266 --> 01:03:35,988
We've done the tests.
We have 11 copies of the DRD4 gene.

602
01:03:37,105 --> 01:03:43,408
It's a whole difference
in our essential brain neurochemistry.

603
01:03:43,528 --> 01:03:48,625
A lot of the behaviors that we think
are environmentally determined,

604
01:03:48,742 --> 01:03:53,168
in fact, many of them have
a genetic predisposition.

605
01:03:55,874 --> 01:03:59,219
And I don't consider myself
to be an extreme sports person.

606
01:03:59,336 --> 01:04:04,092
I consider myself to be
somebody who's experiencing things.

607
01:04:32,619 --> 01:04:35,498
Skydiving, it started as a way
to save your ass

608
01:04:35,622 --> 01:04:38,341
when you got out of a plane
that was falling out of the sky.

609
01:04:40,377 --> 01:04:43,130
And then it became a sport.

610
01:04:43,254 --> 01:04:47,885
People wanted to prolong the amount
of free-fall time that they had,

611
01:04:48,009 --> 01:04:50,808
so they started building suits
that gave them wings,

612
01:04:51,012 --> 01:04:54,983
that prolonged the amount of time
that you could interact with the air,

613
01:04:55,141 --> 01:04:57,360
interact with that new environment.

614
01:04:57,477 --> 01:05:00,947
And that technology is getting better
and better all the time.

615
01:06:05,712 --> 01:06:09,967
That's a nice climb right there, too,
that little tiny thin crack.

616
01:06:12,051 --> 01:06:14,474
It's funny how that works,
because in your youthful times,

617
01:06:14,596 --> 01:06:16,894
you play the risk, in a way.
It's more exciting.

618
01:06:17,056 --> 01:06:19,855
As you get past that, and you realize
that you don't live forever...

619
01:06:19,976 --> 01:06:22,354
- When you're 19, you'll live forever.
- Yeah.

620
01:06:22,479 --> 01:06:26,029
But when you're my young age of 56,
you're like, "Dang, you don't."

621
01:06:31,154 --> 01:06:34,909
I'm only 16, but I've been
through a lot of stuff.

622
01:06:35,074 --> 01:06:40,331
Like, from 2011 to now,
I've been locked up probably, like...

623
01:06:43,791 --> 01:06:45,668
Like 20 times.

624
01:06:47,921 --> 01:06:52,518
Since I'm 18 now, if I keep
continuing this path I walk on,

625
01:06:52,634 --> 01:06:55,387
it's going to lead down
to destruction and all that.

626
01:06:56,930 --> 01:07:02,812
Time makes you think. It really does.
Just sitting in there, you think.

627
01:07:04,646 --> 01:07:09,447
Yep. That's right.
It goes around that way.

628
01:07:09,567 --> 01:07:12,116
Underneath, and then back out.

629
01:07:14,948 --> 01:07:17,417
Don't even think about it.
Just start going, yeah.

630
01:07:17,534 --> 01:07:21,129
Put your foot right inside that crack.
Yeah, like that. Exactly.

631
01:07:23,706 --> 01:07:28,837
- Keep going. Motivation.
- Lift this one up, down.

632
01:07:28,962 --> 01:07:33,513
Yeah. Focus. Just use the rope a bit,
and go up there and grab it.

633
01:07:33,633 --> 01:07:36,557
Pull up, and we'll pull you up.

634
01:07:36,719 --> 01:07:40,519
Got you, we got you.
Just jump. Yeah, bro. Yeah!

635
01:07:40,640 --> 01:07:42,062
Yeah, yeah.

636
01:07:42,183 --> 01:07:43,400
It's so interesting.

637
01:07:43,518 --> 01:07:46,692
We call it, when we're underneath
a friend, you "spot" him.

638
01:07:46,813 --> 01:07:49,441
So that's what we're kind of doing
for each other now

639
01:07:49,566 --> 01:07:50,692
in these moves we're making.

640
01:07:50,817 --> 01:07:53,661
Those kids are sharing how they feel
and I'm sharing how I feel.

641
01:07:53,778 --> 01:07:57,783
We're spotting each other in life,
helping each other to the next move.

642
01:08:01,244 --> 01:08:02,496
- You're holding me.
- Yeah.

643
01:08:02,620 --> 01:08:04,463
My life's in your hands.

644
01:08:25,310 --> 01:08:28,564
Every definition of adventure
in "Webster's"

645
01:08:28,688 --> 01:08:30,690
has an element of risk.

646
01:08:31,941 --> 01:08:33,193
If you take the risk out,

647
01:08:33,318 --> 01:08:36,447
you take a lot of the values
that you get out of it.

648
01:08:40,617 --> 01:08:43,621
When you're doing these risk sports
you try to live right on the edge,

649
01:08:43,745 --> 01:08:46,294
and try to push that envelope
all the time,

650
01:08:46,414 --> 01:08:48,166
push the edge away all the time.

651
01:08:48,291 --> 01:08:51,386
But you never go over,
because if you go over, you're dead.

652
01:09:04,932 --> 01:09:07,731
I know going into it
that there's a really good chance

653
01:09:07,852 --> 01:09:11,026
that, unless everything is perfect,
I'm going to pull the plug.

654
01:09:13,858 --> 01:09:17,203
I start out the day going,
"There's 20 nos."

655
01:09:17,320 --> 01:09:21,541
"Unless I turn those into yeses,
I'm bailing on this thing."

656
01:09:21,658 --> 01:09:26,459
Sometimes that means I've made it
three quarters of the way up a mountain,

657
01:09:26,579 --> 01:09:30,425
and I can't get that 20th "yes,"
and I'm pulling the plug.

658
01:09:38,383 --> 01:09:39,885
If I can just leave this thing

659
01:09:40,009 --> 01:09:43,809
that I've spent three weeks
trying everything I have into it,

660
01:09:43,971 --> 01:09:45,598
and I can walk away from it,

661
01:09:45,723 --> 01:09:49,728
then that's when I know
I'm making the right decisions.

662
01:09:57,694 --> 01:09:59,571
I think the time
when you're most stressed

663
01:09:59,696 --> 01:10:03,667
is when you do your most important work,
and that's how it's been for me.

664
01:10:03,783 --> 01:10:05,831
I've overcome
some of the gnarliest injuries,

665
01:10:05,952 --> 01:10:08,000
broken backs, necks,
and punctured lungs,

666
01:10:08,121 --> 01:10:11,250
and nearly ruptured my aorta.

667
01:10:11,374 --> 01:10:15,470
I've had over 40 broken bones
and none of them I'm proud of,

668
01:10:15,586 --> 01:10:17,088
but they've all taught me lessons,

669
01:10:17,296 --> 01:10:19,390
and they've molded me
into the person I am today.

670
01:10:23,344 --> 01:10:26,689
When you put your helmet on
and it comes down to the night,

671
01:10:26,806 --> 01:10:30,902
you screw in the throttle and hope for
the best, but it's a calculated risk.

672
01:10:31,018 --> 01:10:33,362
There's been a lot of planning
going in place.

673
01:10:41,779 --> 01:10:45,784
In my biggest jumps, I've actually
sat there before and been...

674
01:10:45,908 --> 01:10:47,410
it sounds crazy to say this,

675
01:10:47,577 --> 01:10:49,921
but it's the daredevil nature,
being like, you know what?

676
01:10:50,037 --> 01:10:52,381
However this works out
is how it's meant to be,

677
01:10:52,498 --> 01:10:55,251
and however it does go down,
I'm just going to embrace it.

678
01:10:55,376 --> 01:10:57,845
If I'm falling from a ten-storey
building and it's the end,

679
01:10:58,004 --> 01:10:59,881
I'm just going to give into it
and just let it be,

680
01:11:00,047 --> 01:11:03,551
and not scream on my way down.
You know, just... just take it.

681
01:11:14,395 --> 01:11:17,649
For the Arc de Triomphe,
the fear was definitely killing myself.

682
01:11:17,774 --> 01:11:20,744
Like, I was really worried
about not making it

683
01:11:20,860 --> 01:11:22,737
and seeing the new year come in.

684
01:11:24,697 --> 01:11:27,120
Part of me wanted to just quit
there and then.

685
01:11:27,283 --> 01:11:31,004
But that childhood dream of mine
was that little echo going,

686
01:11:31,120 --> 01:11:33,464
"You've got to do this
for that kid in you,

687
01:11:33,581 --> 01:11:35,754
the one that dreamed like that
all through school,

688
01:11:35,875 --> 01:11:38,094
who wanted to do that.
How's the opportunity."

689
01:11:38,211 --> 01:11:40,213
"You going to walk out now? Coward?"

690
01:12:01,859 --> 01:12:05,909
You could feel it in everyone.
You could see people were nervous.

691
01:12:06,030 --> 01:12:08,658
Everyone around me,
the whole team was, like, on edge.

692
01:12:08,783 --> 01:12:10,456
It was such a tense moment.

693
01:12:15,122 --> 01:12:18,422
I worked out and faced my fears
in myself,

694
01:12:18,543 --> 01:12:22,514
and I faced the fear of that jump
months before I even got there.

695
01:12:42,400 --> 01:12:45,700
You're scared of hurting yourself,
of hucking off that ledge.

696
01:12:45,820 --> 01:12:50,917
You're scared of that giant wave
that's barreling down on you.

697
01:12:51,033 --> 01:12:53,832
Riding the edge of that fear

698
01:12:53,953 --> 01:13:00,336
and what is that fine line between
reckless abandon and calculated risk,

699
01:13:00,459 --> 01:13:03,679
to where you're doing something,
you don't even think twice about it.

700
01:13:05,423 --> 01:13:08,393
I just saw the snow under my feet
break up.

701
01:13:08,509 --> 01:13:10,978
I knew right away what was happening.

702
01:13:11,095 --> 01:13:15,896
Thankfully I was really calm that day,
and I was able to keep my speed

703
01:13:16,017 --> 01:13:19,146
and focus on what I needed
to do to get out of it.

704
01:13:26,277 --> 01:13:27,904
Learning to deal with fear

705
01:13:28,070 --> 01:13:32,792
and talking yourself down from things
you're scared of really helps.

706
01:13:32,909 --> 01:13:35,913
It really helps you deal with other
situations for the rest of your life.

707
01:13:36,037 --> 01:13:39,883
Because then nothing becomes
that big of a deal,

708
01:13:39,999 --> 01:13:43,424
since you've put yourself in
a situation where you were so scared.

709
01:13:49,216 --> 01:13:51,810
You're always negotiating
with the fear of something

710
01:13:51,928 --> 01:13:53,430
to know how to protect yourself.

711
01:13:53,554 --> 01:13:56,603
If you feel the fear come in,
that's just a sign. "What are you doing?"

712
01:13:56,724 --> 01:13:58,852
And as a rock climber,
you go the other way, I think.

713
01:13:58,976 --> 01:14:00,444
When fear comes, you calm down

714
01:14:00,561 --> 01:14:02,814
and you think clearly,
"OK, what do I need to do?"

715
01:14:02,939 --> 01:14:04,816
You don't panic and start shaking
and wing it

716
01:14:04,941 --> 01:14:06,784
and start going for it
and see what happens.

717
01:14:06,901 --> 01:14:11,782
So I think that fear is
a very interesting friend

718
01:14:11,948 --> 01:14:15,669
that's there for you to help you,
protect you, make you consider.

719
01:14:32,843 --> 01:14:37,849
There's no words to describe how scared
I was on my first base jump.

720
01:14:39,225 --> 01:14:44,698
Every animal on the planet has a fear
system that's basically the same.

721
01:14:44,814 --> 01:14:46,612
It's there to protect you.

722
01:14:46,732 --> 01:14:49,861
But what can happen
is it can get out of hand.

723
01:14:49,986 --> 01:14:51,784
It can start firing off

724
01:14:51,904 --> 01:14:55,499
when you're having thoughts about
doing the things that you want to do.

725
01:15:00,913 --> 01:15:03,382
The fear of death
is the fear of the unknown.

726
01:15:03,499 --> 01:15:07,720
It's the fear that is probably
the strongest in all of us,

727
01:15:07,837 --> 01:15:14,265
and to confront that and run off
a cliff into the unknown,

728
01:15:14,427 --> 01:15:21,982
every cell in your body is on fire
screaming, "Don't do it."

729
01:15:28,149 --> 01:15:31,028
When you know that you've undergone
the proper training

730
01:15:31,152 --> 01:15:33,405
to get to the edge of this cliff,

731
01:15:33,571 --> 01:15:38,077
then you use that understanding,
that reason and logic

732
01:15:38,200 --> 01:15:43,081
to cut through
the screaming chatter and do it.

733
01:16:02,058 --> 01:16:06,029
We both went into a tumble
due to the thin air

734
01:16:06,145 --> 01:16:11,242
and the heavy 16mm old
clunky cameras that we had.

735
01:16:11,358 --> 01:16:16,364
I hadn't expected that.
I thought I had pushed it too far.

736
01:17:15,047 --> 01:17:18,893
These sports used to be
real rebel, counter-society,

737
01:17:19,009 --> 01:17:21,228
"don't go near them" sort of activities,

738
01:17:21,345 --> 01:17:24,269
to now they're readily acceptable,

739
01:17:24,390 --> 01:17:29,567
although the extreme part of it is
getting more and more extreme.

740
01:18:18,694 --> 01:18:24,167
These guys have a crazy switch,
and they can't wait to get there.

741
01:18:24,283 --> 01:18:27,503
They live for it. So they're pushing it,
and by them pushing it,

742
01:18:27,620 --> 01:18:30,089
the next group wants to go bigger
and higher,

743
01:18:30,206 --> 01:18:32,959
and it's just been pushed
and pushed and pushed.

744
01:18:33,083 --> 01:18:37,714
It's the inherent DNA of these
performers. They want to go big.

745
01:19:06,784 --> 01:19:12,211
There's a point where, intuitively,
you really do hit the red line

746
01:19:12,331 --> 01:19:15,005
on where you're getting
to the point of taking serious risk,

747
01:19:15,125 --> 01:19:19,255
and that is injury or death
or whatever it is.

748
01:19:19,380 --> 01:19:22,975
There's a point where that's reality.
There's a threshold there

749
01:19:23,092 --> 01:19:25,311
unless you're really ready
to go that far to risk,

750
01:19:25,427 --> 01:19:28,772
and you can digest
the consequences, you know?

751
01:20:17,813 --> 01:20:21,317
I could keep pushing myself
to be the best in the world,

752
01:20:21,442 --> 01:20:24,241
but realistically it's not possible.

753
01:20:26,280 --> 01:20:29,124
I honestly feel like this lifestyle,
the motorcycle lifestyle,

754
01:20:29,241 --> 01:20:32,245
has taught me what I needed to know.

755
01:20:34,288 --> 01:20:36,757
I'm able to let go
of that wild daredevil side

756
01:20:36,915 --> 01:20:39,509
that needs to prove to the world
that I can do the craziest things.

757
01:20:39,626 --> 01:20:42,345
I really don't feel
I need to prove that any more.

758
01:20:55,351 --> 01:20:56,477
The fears I've had to face,

759
01:20:56,602 --> 01:21:00,152
I've really had to kind of face myself
and find out who I am,

760
01:21:00,272 --> 01:21:04,322
and the only way to do that is to sit
in a quiet room and sit it out.

761
01:21:06,070 --> 01:21:08,368
It's a hard thing to do.
I still struggle with it.

762
01:21:08,489 --> 01:21:11,459
But that's when I find the biggest joy.

763
01:21:13,952 --> 01:21:16,455
I had to do some crazy things
to find that.

764
01:21:37,267 --> 01:21:38,610
Since the beginning,

765
01:21:38,727 --> 01:21:41,230
there's been monumental change
in action sports.

766
01:21:41,397 --> 01:21:43,900
At its core, the thing that remains
absolutely the same

767
01:21:44,024 --> 01:21:48,154
is that experience,
that calling that people have.

768
01:21:48,278 --> 01:21:51,532
This is something
that I'm completely dedicated to,

769
01:21:51,698 --> 01:21:54,577
and it's who I am, and it's something
I'm going to do my entire life.

770
01:22:15,097 --> 01:22:18,601
You get to the summit.
There's no summit. It's just flat.

771
01:22:18,725 --> 01:22:21,148
There's nothing up there.
There's nobody meeting you.

772
01:22:21,270 --> 01:22:23,773
There's no wise man up there
telling you the secret of life.

773
01:22:23,939 --> 01:22:25,111
There's nothing.

774
01:22:25,232 --> 01:22:28,611
You realize, you know what?
It's all about the process.

775
01:22:36,618 --> 01:22:38,791
It's a fine line
when you're forcing something

776
01:22:38,954 --> 01:22:40,752
and you're learning to flow
with something.

777
01:22:40,873 --> 01:22:42,500
You're becoming a part of something,

778
01:22:42,624 --> 01:22:45,127
or you're just trying to grope
your way through something

779
01:22:45,252 --> 01:22:46,504
with just strength.

780
01:22:53,135 --> 01:22:55,229
There's a place I go to by myself a lot

781
01:22:55,387 --> 01:22:57,435
where it's just a horizontal traverse,

782
01:22:57,556 --> 01:22:59,399
I just try to learn to move
with the moment

783
01:22:59,516 --> 01:23:00,688
and be focused on my breath.

784
01:23:00,809 --> 01:23:03,437
I might go across the traverse
and just think about breathing.

785
01:23:05,314 --> 01:23:08,193
I might go through it just thinking
about my hands, or my feet,

786
01:23:08,317 --> 01:23:12,367
or, you know, how you're moving
your shoulders, whatever, and practice.

787
01:23:18,744 --> 01:23:20,121
By going out and rock climbing,

788
01:23:20,245 --> 01:23:23,089
you have to face everything
about yourself, and it's all up to you.

789
01:23:23,207 --> 01:23:25,426
You take your hands and feet,
you put them on the rock.

790
01:23:25,542 --> 01:23:28,216
You pull yourself up.
You are 100% responsible for yourself.

791
01:23:28,337 --> 01:23:30,214
You've got to know
that knot's tied right.

792
01:23:30,339 --> 01:23:33,388
You've got to know who your partner is.
You need the trust of a partner.

793
01:23:37,471 --> 01:23:38,814
I bring that up to our youngsters.

794
01:23:38,931 --> 01:23:41,059
I say, "Rock climbing
is like what you guys do."

795
01:23:41,225 --> 01:23:44,195
"if you get yourself into something,
how are you going to get out?"

796
01:23:47,523 --> 01:23:50,868
I think for me, sometimes it's just
to see the potential in something

797
01:23:51,026 --> 01:23:52,494
and try to bring it out.

798
01:24:59,219 --> 01:25:05,101
Trying to grab surfing is like
trying to hold a snowflake.

799
01:25:05,225 --> 01:25:08,525
You know, the minute you try to hold it
and possess it, it melts.

800
01:25:14,735 --> 01:25:19,036
The wave is forming in front of you.
The wave is over your head.

801
01:25:19,239 --> 01:25:20,866
Your wake is disappearing.

802
01:25:20,991 --> 01:25:22,959
Your footprints are washed
from the beach.

803
01:25:23,118 --> 01:25:28,420
There's no material production
from having done it.

804
01:25:28,540 --> 01:25:30,918
There's no depletion,
there's no creation.

805
01:25:31,043 --> 01:25:33,842
It's just an aesthetic instant.

806
01:26:13,251 --> 01:26:19,258
And out there, when all that
holds you back is the horizon,

807
01:26:19,383 --> 01:26:21,010
that's real freedom.

808
01:27:47,763 --> 01:27:52,189
Subtitles: BTI Studios