1 00:01:19,800 --> 00:01:23,500 Once upon a time, in the heart of Africa, 2 00:01:23,510 --> 00:01:26,410 there was a lake of fire. 3 00:01:30,660 --> 00:01:33,485 The lake's water burned with color, 4 00:01:33,828 --> 00:01:36,685 scarlet and crimson, 5 00:01:38,457 --> 00:01:42,580 and in its stillness, held heaven's reflection. 6 00:02:04,370 --> 00:02:08,742 After months without rain, there came a season of drought. 7 00:02:09,330 --> 00:02:13,730 And the lake dried and turned white as ash. 8 00:02:24,257 --> 00:02:29,320 But in the desolation came the promise of another season. 9 00:02:30,200 --> 00:02:36,428 A season of color and life, a season of beginning. 10 00:04:13,440 --> 00:04:16,360 Lake Natron, in northern Tanzania, 11 00:04:16,380 --> 00:04:20,542 lies at the very center of East Africa's Great Rift Valley. 12 00:04:21,340 --> 00:04:25,110 This is a raw and unfinished land. 13 00:04:33,600 --> 00:04:37,771 Ol Doinyo Lengai rises from the lake's southern shore, 14 00:04:38,257 --> 00:04:42,400 a living volcano, restless and impatient. 15 00:04:54,520 --> 00:04:57,200 Hidden deep in its dark core, 16 00:04:57,428 --> 00:05:01,320 a chamber of magma burns with primeval energy. 17 00:05:37,970 --> 00:05:40,100 For the local Masai tribe, 18 00:05:40,140 --> 00:05:43,610 Lengai is simply where God lives. 19 00:05:51,590 --> 00:05:55,340 Natron is a vast, shallow lake, 20 00:05:55,360 --> 00:05:59,850 40 miles long and no more than six feet deep 21 00:06:00,000 --> 00:06:05,500 and so toxic with soda salt that almost nothing can live in its water. 22 00:06:07,890 --> 00:06:11,180 But each year, For only a few weeks, 23 00:06:11,420 --> 00:06:13,300 rain comes to Natron... 24 00:06:15,480 --> 00:06:19,060 and a grand act of creation takes place, 25 00:06:19,100 --> 00:06:22,857 one of Africa's last great mysteries. 26 00:06:45,000 --> 00:06:48,610 And with the rain come the flamingos. 27 00:06:59,371 --> 00:07:03,940 Somehow, they know the time has come to return to Natron. 28 00:07:04,700 --> 00:07:08,490 They have abandoned a dozen other lakes along the Rift Valley 29 00:07:08,510 --> 00:07:13,860 and flown hundreds, even thousands, of miles to be here. 30 00:09:19,040 --> 00:09:21,980 Each bird has its own story, 31 00:09:22,050 --> 00:09:24,490 its own secret life. 32 00:09:26,040 --> 00:09:30,030 And each story is one that began here at Natron, 33 00:09:30,257 --> 00:09:31,571 with the rain. 34 00:09:45,950 --> 00:09:49,457 The rain triggers the growth of algae in the water. 35 00:09:49,950 --> 00:09:53,571 When the flamingos eat the algae, they transform. 36 00:09:54,314 --> 00:09:58,790 Their feathers, eyes and legs flush with crimson. 37 00:10:17,285 --> 00:10:21,400 It is their color they find most attractive about each other. 38 00:10:22,342 --> 00:10:26,230 After all, this is why they have come to Natron, 39 00:10:26,800 --> 00:10:28,190 to find a mate. 40 00:11:19,257 --> 00:11:23,257 Slowly, almost politely, they begin. 41 00:11:31,790 --> 00:11:35,300 Every movement, part of a courtship. 42 00:11:35,657 --> 00:11:37,057 A choreography. 43 00:11:40,290 --> 00:11:43,285 A growing dervish of desire. 44 00:16:10,770 --> 00:16:14,520 One by one, the flamingos find each other. 45 00:16:16,240 --> 00:16:18,914 A pairing to last the season. 46 00:16:21,520 --> 00:16:24,828 A pairing that begins with a moment. 47 00:16:44,690 --> 00:16:46,960 There is a myth told by the Masai 48 00:16:47,240 --> 00:16:50,330 that the flamingos are made from the water's salt. 49 00:16:51,720 --> 00:16:55,070 That they are the children of the lake. 50 00:16:56,070 --> 00:16:58,960 But the truth is no less extraordinary, 51 00:16:59,210 --> 00:17:02,828 and something that only happens here at Natron. 52 00:17:08,430 --> 00:17:12,040 A secret island emerges from the middle of the lake. 53 00:17:18,890 --> 00:17:20,630 As the rainy season ends 54 00:17:20,930 --> 00:17:23,850 and the furnace sun resumes its rule, 55 00:17:24,100 --> 00:17:27,980 Water evaporates so quickly that a residue of salt 56 00:17:28,200 --> 00:17:30,040 forms on the surface. 57 00:17:39,880 --> 00:17:42,790 Each day, the sun bears down 58 00:17:42,971 --> 00:17:45,630 and the salt thickens into sheets, 59 00:17:45,828 --> 00:17:50,740 like plates of salt ice that shift and grind in the wind. 60 00:18:55,250 --> 00:18:56,920 The sheets drift, 61 00:18:57,130 --> 00:19:00,800 blending into a series of small islands as they go. 62 00:19:01,900 --> 00:19:05,980 The wind pushes the islands towards the center of the lake. 63 00:19:10,330 --> 00:19:13,540 After several weeks of intense evaporation, 64 00:19:13,790 --> 00:19:18,200 the water in the center of the lake is only a few inches deep. 65 00:19:18,890 --> 00:19:23,310 The floating salt islands run aground on the emerging mud 66 00:19:23,657 --> 00:19:28,280 and soon accumulate into a single island of salt, 67 00:19:28,460 --> 00:19:30,440 ten miles wide. 68 00:19:31,990 --> 00:19:36,140 Here, remnant water congeals into sulfurous pools, 69 00:19:36,340 --> 00:19:41,160 and the temperature regularly rises above 130 degrees. 70 00:19:47,400 --> 00:19:51,771 No land animal could travel Or survive here. 71 00:19:52,550 --> 00:19:56,570 But to the flamingos, this strange, new world 72 00:19:56,780 --> 00:19:57,790 is a gift. 73 00:19:59,580 --> 00:20:03,230 There are two million lesser flamingos in East Africa, 74 00:20:03,450 --> 00:20:09,010 and every one of them is born here on Natron's secret salt island. 75 00:20:26,620 --> 00:20:31,028 The expectant parents build their nests from the salty lake mud. 76 00:20:34,600 --> 00:20:37,280 Even though the salt island is vast, 77 00:20:37,540 --> 00:20:42,714 as social birds, the flamingos prefer to group closely together 78 00:20:42,857 --> 00:20:46,570 and define the boundaries of their chosen nest sites. 79 00:20:56,470 --> 00:20:59,150 The nests are almost a foot high, 80 00:20:59,342 --> 00:21:03,970 Drier and a few degrees cooler than the floor of the salt island. 81 00:21:04,900 --> 00:21:09,628 The salt bakes, bleaches and hardens into a cradle. 82 00:21:21,885 --> 00:21:25,228 After the nest, comes the egg. 83 00:21:28,428 --> 00:21:32,400 And then, there is nothing to do but wait... 84 00:21:38,310 --> 00:21:41,990 for one, long, hot month. 85 00:22:42,040 --> 00:22:45,914 Finally, a small but determined beginning. 86 00:22:50,390 --> 00:22:54,170 A new life, one that will start today, 87 00:22:54,628 --> 00:22:59,270 and might, if she's lucky, last for 40 years. 88 00:23:01,514 --> 00:23:03,914 A whole new story. 89 00:23:30,510 --> 00:23:33,314 Her very first cries are unique. 90 00:23:33,800 --> 00:23:37,285 This is her own voice, and how she and her parents 91 00:23:37,571 --> 00:23:40,485 will always be able to recognize each other. 92 00:24:06,630 --> 00:24:11,080 Within a few hours, Her down dries in the hot sun, 93 00:24:11,270 --> 00:24:13,290 and she tries to stand. 94 00:24:29,028 --> 00:24:32,857 Something that will take only a little more practice. 95 00:25:03,500 --> 00:25:05,485 Then it's time for food, 96 00:25:05,990 --> 00:25:09,640 a high-energy liquid made from the lake's algae, 97 00:25:09,860 --> 00:25:13,810 but also containing traces of her parent's own blood. 98 00:25:44,100 --> 00:25:47,410 For these first days, she has the constant presence 99 00:25:47,428 --> 00:25:49,742 of one or other of her parents. 100 00:25:50,685 --> 00:25:53,942 This is a time of bonding and intimacy. 101 00:26:16,771 --> 00:26:19,580 The dark hollow Under her mother's wing 102 00:26:19,657 --> 00:26:23,000 is a favorite place to hide from the fierce sun. 103 00:27:01,400 --> 00:27:05,371 While still small, the chicks stay in their parent's shadows 104 00:27:05,800 --> 00:27:07,940 Or on their nest mounds. 105 00:27:08,230 --> 00:27:10,650 Anything to stay cool. 106 00:28:36,100 --> 00:28:39,650 At about a week old, her legs are strong enough, 107 00:28:40,085 --> 00:28:44,000 and, with a little encouragement, 108 00:28:44,100 --> 00:28:46,480 she decides to leave the nest. 109 00:29:19,290 --> 00:29:24,628 Her world expands, one unsteady step at a time. 110 00:29:31,760 --> 00:29:35,570 Now that she can walk, Her relationship with her parents 111 00:29:35,685 --> 00:29:39,770 will become more and more about separation. 112 00:29:47,490 --> 00:29:49,130 Like every other chick, 113 00:29:49,440 --> 00:29:52,290 Her inclination is to be with others. 114 00:29:52,914 --> 00:29:56,542 The comfort and familiarity of her kind. 115 00:29:57,550 --> 00:30:00,970 For a life that is not so much about the individual, 116 00:30:01,200 --> 00:30:02,370 but a collective. 117 00:30:19,370 --> 00:30:22,028 Up to half a million adults and chicks 118 00:30:22,150 --> 00:30:26,140 live in this season's noisy and boisterous nursery. 119 00:31:11,210 --> 00:31:15,490 But the island can also be harsh and unkind. 120 00:31:15,657 --> 00:31:19,830 An impermanent place of salt and extreme heat. 121 00:31:25,290 --> 00:31:28,900 When the chicks walk through the puddles of thick, salty water 122 00:31:28,914 --> 00:31:34,600 that are all around, a thin band of salt sometimes forms on their ankles. 123 00:31:39,770 --> 00:31:43,290 If it does or not seems a matter of luck. 124 00:31:43,510 --> 00:31:46,290 But the more these chicks wade into the water, 125 00:31:46,750 --> 00:31:51,285 the more the salt accumulates and hardens into a cement shackle 126 00:31:51,400 --> 00:31:52,990 that cannot be broken. 127 00:32:16,490 --> 00:32:20,480 High above the colonies, the marabou storks appear, 128 00:32:20,680 --> 00:32:23,771 circling like storybook witches. 129 00:32:27,640 --> 00:32:30,142 They have come from far beyond the lake 130 00:32:30,260 --> 00:32:34,828 with their own mysterious knowledge of what happens at Natron. 131 00:32:38,160 --> 00:32:39,428 Very quickly... 132 00:32:42,828 --> 00:32:45,228 their intentions become clear. 133 00:34:15,610 --> 00:34:18,560 Almost insatiable, a few marabous 134 00:34:18,571 --> 00:34:20,600 can kill hundreds of chicks, 135 00:34:21,228 --> 00:34:24,420 scattering and scaring off the parents. 136 00:35:49,742 --> 00:35:52,300 With their gentle, curved beaks, 137 00:35:52,371 --> 00:35:56,171 the flamingos are no match for the marabous. 138 00:35:59,610 --> 00:36:01,190 But every once in a while, 139 00:36:01,400 --> 00:36:04,314 a parent wins a reprieve for her chick. 140 00:36:29,000 --> 00:36:32,110 One day, the chicks have had enough. 141 00:36:35,257 --> 00:36:38,860 Perhaps some instinct tells them of a better place. 142 00:36:40,300 --> 00:36:42,820 Somewhere beyond the salt. 143 00:36:55,740 --> 00:36:59,090 Suddenly, in their hundreds of thousands, 144 00:36:59,730 --> 00:37:01,914 they abandon their nursery. 145 00:38:09,130 --> 00:38:11,371 Guardian birds lead them away 146 00:38:11,430 --> 00:38:14,514 and out across the miles of the salt island, 147 00:38:14,685 --> 00:38:18,680 perhaps on routes they took themselves when they were chicks. 148 00:39:01,650 --> 00:39:03,890 But there are those who are left behind, 149 00:39:04,180 --> 00:39:07,350 too weak or too injured to make the journey. 150 00:39:16,870 --> 00:39:20,010 Stories that barely began. 151 00:40:21,590 --> 00:40:26,680 Each day, the surviving chicks continue on across the burning miles. 152 00:40:42,750 --> 00:40:47,660 Though they are reunited each evening with their parents for rest and food, 153 00:40:47,771 --> 00:40:51,657 it is the guardian birds who lead this daytime march 154 00:40:52,485 --> 00:40:55,860 and make sure even the smallest find their way. 155 00:41:15,228 --> 00:41:17,960 But the group can't wait for everyone. 156 00:41:51,685 --> 00:41:54,380 The chicks burdened with salt shackles 157 00:41:54,628 --> 00:41:57,600 fall further and further behind. 158 00:42:54,914 --> 00:42:58,200 But, for the hundreds of chicks who die, 159 00:42:58,542 --> 00:43:00,514 thousands will make it. 160 00:43:20,460 --> 00:43:22,942 How far they've come. 161 00:43:30,080 --> 00:43:33,200 The groups merge and gather momentum 162 00:43:33,885 --> 00:43:38,580 as if, at last, they sense the destination. 163 00:43:49,940 --> 00:43:52,885 And, reaching the edge of the salt island, 164 00:43:53,028 --> 00:43:57,571 find the lake with its cool, blue water. 165 00:44:10,380 --> 00:44:12,542 And she has made it, too. 166 00:44:39,190 --> 00:44:40,930 Cautiously at first... 167 00:44:42,600 --> 00:44:43,660 but then... 168 00:45:26,228 --> 00:45:27,485 up ahead... 169 00:45:29,200 --> 00:45:30,942 there are the others. 170 00:46:20,260 --> 00:46:22,171 Leaving the salt island, 171 00:46:22,340 --> 00:46:25,480 the chicks enter the wider kingdom of the lake. 172 00:46:30,428 --> 00:46:33,770 Here, a very different world awaits them. 173 00:46:36,600 --> 00:46:38,200 A living landscape, 174 00:46:38,542 --> 00:46:40,600 complex and animate. 175 00:47:49,620 --> 00:47:53,800 The Rift's escarpment rises a thousand feet above the lake, 176 00:47:54,010 --> 00:47:56,960 a rock wall severed by deep canyons. 177 00:48:00,300 --> 00:48:02,940 Here, amid the shadows and the swifts, 178 00:48:03,114 --> 00:48:06,542 water gushes out from hundreds of underground springs. 179 00:48:07,971 --> 00:48:10,828 The water is rich in sodium carbonate, 180 00:48:11,142 --> 00:48:14,571 a mineral that creates the salty chemistry of the lake. 181 00:49:20,600 --> 00:49:24,628 Dozens of springs and rivers feed into a series of marshes 182 00:49:24,620 --> 00:49:28,800 that border the lake. Almost all of Natron's life 183 00:49:28,914 --> 00:49:33,710 depends upon the relatively fresh water of this abundant green maze. 184 00:49:34,570 --> 00:49:39,680 And, for the next few months, so too will the chicks. 185 00:50:40,930 --> 00:50:43,720 Each morning, the parents leave their chicks 186 00:50:43,740 --> 00:50:46,485 on the muddy shore below the marsh. 187 00:50:48,228 --> 00:50:51,920 They spend the day almost completely unsupervised. 188 00:51:28,940 --> 00:51:31,150 They learn to feed themselves. 189 00:51:31,342 --> 00:51:35,040 Their beaks are developing the filters and distinctive shape 190 00:51:35,085 --> 00:51:39,240 that will allow them to separate the algae they need from the mud and silt 191 00:51:39,257 --> 00:51:40,285 of the marsh. 192 00:51:53,230 --> 00:51:56,640 Her super soft down is the perfect insulation 193 00:51:56,650 --> 00:51:58,250 against the strong sun. 194 00:51:58,742 --> 00:52:01,250 But it requires frequent grooming, 195 00:52:01,314 --> 00:52:06,228 not only to keep it healthy, but to encourage the growth of adult feathers. 196 00:52:29,350 --> 00:52:33,400 Without those feathers, she can't fly... 197 00:52:33,771 --> 00:52:36,230 no matter how hard she tries. 198 00:52:51,150 --> 00:52:54,714 There are plenty of things to want to fly away from. 199 00:53:00,942 --> 00:53:04,371 The mongoose that lives in the marsh, for instance. 200 00:53:49,820 --> 00:53:52,030 As the chicks change and grow, 201 00:53:52,257 --> 00:53:54,514 life in the marsh goes on. 202 00:53:56,457 --> 00:53:59,800 Routine, yet quietly full of wonder. 203 00:55:15,670 --> 00:55:17,520 At three months old, 204 00:55:17,685 --> 00:55:20,330 she has grown more sure of herself 205 00:55:20,514 --> 00:55:22,580 and her place in the marsh. 206 00:55:37,300 --> 00:55:42,080 Now, her down has transformed into a juvenile plumage. 207 00:55:43,314 --> 00:55:45,220 And one by one, 208 00:55:46,057 --> 00:55:48,840 her wing feathers have fledged. 209 00:56:20,730 --> 00:56:24,714 The day comes when she discovers Her wings are strong enough, 210 00:56:27,760 --> 00:56:30,628 and a whole new way of being 211 00:56:30,742 --> 00:56:32,628 is suddenly possible. 212 00:56:33,685 --> 00:56:38,390 A flight that at first stays close to the lake and the marsh, 213 00:56:38,580 --> 00:56:41,000 the familiar places of her life. 214 00:56:41,900 --> 00:56:44,800 But a flight that will soon release her 215 00:56:45,514 --> 00:56:49,342 above the earth, above everything she has known. 216 00:57:34,410 --> 00:57:36,220 No longer a chick, 217 00:57:36,520 --> 00:57:40,142 but a young bird whose wings have given her 218 00:57:40,228 --> 00:57:42,514 the whole Rift Valley. 219 00:58:01,840 --> 00:58:05,400 Every 30 years, Lengai erupts. 220 00:58:09,420 --> 00:58:12,440 Deep in the volcano's molten core, 221 00:58:12,600 --> 00:58:15,571 lava is pulverized by pressure 222 00:58:15,630 --> 00:58:19,550 into ash and thrown upward into the air. 223 00:58:23,830 --> 00:58:26,657 The ash contains sodium carbonate, 224 00:58:26,800 --> 00:58:30,628 the exact mineral in the lake's water and soil. 225 00:58:31,485 --> 00:58:35,028 It is as if each aspect of the lake's landscape 226 00:58:35,090 --> 00:58:37,657 is simply a different form. 227 00:58:37,710 --> 00:58:42,260 A different incarnation of the same basic element. 228 00:58:44,100 --> 00:58:46,520 Natron is one place, 229 00:58:46,790 --> 00:58:49,930 water, earth and air. 230 00:59:16,730 --> 00:59:20,914 And the flamingos born on the lake's salt island, 231 00:59:20,950 --> 00:59:24,040 transformed by its salt water, 232 00:59:24,457 --> 00:59:27,560 embody Natron in a living form. 233 01:00:41,990 --> 01:00:46,914 The flamingo's ceaseless journeys among the many lakes of the Rift Valley 234 01:00:46,950 --> 01:00:49,571 are nomadic rather than migratory. 235 01:00:49,570 --> 01:00:53,250 For the flamingos move of their own accord. 236 01:01:00,160 --> 01:01:03,542 Natron, Bogoria, Embakai. 237 01:01:04,060 --> 01:01:07,428 Magadi, Nakuru, Manyara. 238 01:01:08,060 --> 01:01:10,800 They come and go as they want. 239 01:01:10,880 --> 01:01:15,090 Their presence, the sudden and complete possession of a lake. 240 01:02:12,840 --> 01:02:16,885 But every lake has its storybook witches. 241 01:04:39,880 --> 01:04:42,630 This time, she keeps her story. 242 01:04:42,890 --> 01:04:45,480 She keeps her secret life. 243 01:04:53,640 --> 01:04:56,314 Just as they arrived at Natron, 244 01:04:56,542 --> 01:05:01,200 like a magic act, the flamingos suddenly disappear. 245 01:05:52,880 --> 01:05:56,470 Born of salt, they possess the sky, 246 01:05:56,628 --> 01:05:58,770 they absorb the color of the water 247 01:05:59,050 --> 01:06:03,070 and their feathers burnish crimson as the phoenix. 248 01:06:05,010 --> 01:06:08,590 Their lives are continual transformation. 249 01:06:08,810 --> 01:06:13,630 And even in death, their forms shift to something other. 250 01:06:14,960 --> 01:06:17,771 Their feathers, bones, color, 251 01:06:17,870 --> 01:06:20,820 their life force returned to the lake. 252 01:06:50,380 --> 01:06:55,400 As the seasons change, microscopic life in the water blooms. 253 01:06:55,470 --> 01:06:58,514 Natron becomes a lake of fire. 254 01:07:30,340 --> 01:07:33,860 After six months without a single drop of rain, 255 01:07:34,685 --> 01:07:37,600 the color fades and bleaches. 256 01:08:05,371 --> 01:08:07,500 The ash of the volcano blends 257 01:08:07,510 --> 01:08:11,160 with the salt of the lake and the dust of the earth, 258 01:08:11,380 --> 01:08:15,857 scattering in the restless dry season wind. 259 01:08:21,710 --> 01:08:24,200 Natron's elements shape-shift, 260 01:08:24,542 --> 01:08:26,700 one into the other. 261 01:08:26,971 --> 01:08:30,828 Ash, dust and salt. 262 01:08:55,260 --> 01:08:59,140 But even this season of silence will pass. 263 01:09:12,730 --> 01:09:16,820 The story of the bird is a promise to us. 264 01:09:17,514 --> 01:09:19,485 Nature's affirmation. 265 01:09:32,428 --> 01:09:34,885 In winter or in death, 266 01:09:35,570 --> 01:09:40,142 in times of desolation, the rain will arrive. 267 01:09:41,430 --> 01:09:44,710 The call of the birds will be heard. 268 01:09:45,257 --> 01:09:50,228 And everything, everything can begin again. 269 01:10:30,390 --> 01:10:32,030 Lightning bird. 270 01:10:32,340 --> 01:10:35,520 Fire bird. Phoenix. 271 01:10:36,060 --> 01:10:39,080 She will return on crimson wings 272 01:10:39,114 --> 01:10:41,571 and make a nest among the ashes. 273 01:10:48,285 --> 01:10:51,971 And the children of the lake will be reborn. 274 01:13:35,600 --> 01:13:39,428 Once upon a time, in the heart of Africa, 275 01:13:39,714 --> 01:13:42,085 there was a lake of fire.