0 00:00:11,000 --> 00:00:20,000 INDOXXI Support dengan like & share :) 1 00:00:33,400 --> 00:00:37,269 - Time doesn't wait for anybody. 2 00:00:37,304 --> 00:00:40,105 None of us has any time to waste. 3 00:00:44,144 --> 00:00:45,811 They say time is money 4 00:00:48,515 --> 00:00:53,251 but the things you can buy with money are cheap. 5 00:00:53,286 --> 00:00:55,087 Time you can pay for, 6 00:00:55,755 --> 00:00:57,623 but you can't buy any. 7 00:01:02,596 --> 00:01:06,732 In spite of all our modern conveniences and technologies, 8 00:01:08,768 --> 00:01:11,103 everybody tells you they don't have 9 00:01:11,138 --> 00:01:13,605 time for this or time for that. 10 00:01:15,909 --> 00:01:18,810 Well, of course they don't, 11 00:01:18,845 --> 00:01:22,881 because they lose their perspective of the present. 12 00:01:22,916 --> 00:01:25,784 The present is just a fleeting moment. 13 00:01:25,819 --> 00:01:28,353 It comes, and then it's gone, 14 00:01:29,623 --> 00:01:32,424 maybe without even being noticed. 15 00:01:37,497 --> 00:01:40,165 We think about the past, 16 00:01:40,200 --> 00:01:42,401 and nostalgia makes us sad, 17 00:01:43,904 --> 00:01:46,438 or we worry about the future, 18 00:01:47,574 --> 00:01:51,110 and are too anxious to be in the present. 19 00:01:52,712 --> 00:01:56,148 The past and the future are just concepts 20 00:01:56,183 --> 00:01:58,317 that exist in the present. 21 00:02:04,691 --> 00:02:06,591 There's nowhere to go. 22 00:02:06,626 --> 00:02:08,427 Nothing happens next. 23 00:02:10,430 --> 00:02:12,231 You are already here. 24 00:02:14,901 --> 00:02:16,435 - Good afternoon. - Hello. 25 00:02:17,571 --> 00:02:21,706 How do you say cowboy, yeah, yeah, cowboy. 26 00:02:50,971 --> 00:02:53,772 - There's a tough question. 27 00:02:54,874 --> 00:02:56,641 Your hands numb yet? 28 00:02:56,676 --> 00:02:58,810 - Yeah, it's cold. 29 00:03:01,348 --> 00:03:03,281 - It's snowing, dude. 30 00:03:03,316 --> 00:03:05,250 Here we go Craig, it's snowing. 31 00:03:05,285 --> 00:03:06,851 - Here's the hunt for Red October. 32 00:03:06,886 --> 00:03:08,820 It's like, how long would your body last 33 00:03:08,855 --> 00:03:10,333 if you just ran out there in a Speedo 34 00:03:10,357 --> 00:03:11,590 and a pair of swim fins. 35 00:03:11,625 --> 00:03:14,226 Swam all the way out and back. 36 00:04:17,524 --> 00:04:19,557 - Um, we came all the way from warm Hawaii 37 00:04:19,592 --> 00:04:23,262 to come and surf in freezing cold Scotland. 38 00:04:29,803 --> 00:04:31,670 - That's the quote of the trip right there. 39 00:04:31,705 --> 00:04:32,705 - For sure. 40 00:04:40,046 --> 00:04:41,513 I surfed in Alaska once, 41 00:04:41,548 --> 00:04:44,750 but I never remember a thing like that. 42 00:04:51,024 --> 00:04:52,601 - You know, check in a couple times a year, 43 00:04:52,625 --> 00:04:54,603 and just think to yourself, what do you want to do. 44 00:04:54,627 --> 00:04:56,472 - Wait, when did you win your first world title? 45 00:04:56,496 --> 00:04:57,429 - 92. 46 00:04:57,464 --> 00:04:59,698 - The year I was born. 47 00:04:59,733 --> 00:05:03,001 - Yeah, just a little jump on you there. 48 00:06:22,148 --> 00:06:23,859 - I remember what, being in like my early 20s 49 00:06:23,883 --> 00:06:25,683 and catching waves on backdoor and pipe 50 00:06:25,718 --> 00:06:26,929 thinking that there's no way in hell 51 00:06:26,953 --> 00:06:28,564 I'll ever catch a wave better than that. 52 00:06:28,588 --> 00:06:30,922 The bar's set so high now. 53 00:06:30,957 --> 00:06:32,001 Whether or not I've already caught 54 00:06:32,025 --> 00:06:34,993 the best wave of my life is, is the question that... 55 00:06:35,028 --> 00:06:36,105 - You don't want to know. 56 00:06:36,129 --> 00:06:37,896 - I don't really want to know the answer to, 57 00:06:37,931 --> 00:06:39,831 I always want to be asking the question. 58 00:06:39,866 --> 00:06:41,633 That's the question I've been asking myself 59 00:06:41,668 --> 00:06:43,768 since I was a little kid. 60 00:06:49,776 --> 00:06:52,010 - I feel like contests are so natural to me. 61 00:06:52,045 --> 00:06:54,012 I can just show up, go to my work, 62 00:06:54,047 --> 00:06:55,980 do my thing, and leave, 63 00:06:56,015 --> 00:06:58,116 but knowing that I'm going on a trip with Dave, 64 00:06:58,151 --> 00:07:00,552 yeah, I'm definitely a little bit nervous about this 65 00:07:00,587 --> 00:07:03,855 because this is not really my specialty. 66 00:07:04,891 --> 00:07:07,025 - From my own travels and meeting people, 67 00:07:07,060 --> 00:07:09,194 it's just purely my own experience but, 68 00:07:09,229 --> 00:07:12,597 it's that we don't really acknowledge each other 69 00:07:12,632 --> 00:07:14,732 beyond just that accomplishment. 70 00:07:14,767 --> 00:07:17,135 I feel like, great, you won that contest, 71 00:07:17,170 --> 00:07:19,604 or great, you surfed this wave. 72 00:07:19,639 --> 00:07:20,850 You don't go, hey, you know like, 73 00:07:20,874 --> 00:07:22,640 the way you smile when you surf 74 00:07:22,675 --> 00:07:25,076 lights up the whole line, that's so cool. 75 00:07:25,111 --> 00:07:26,010 Thank you for doing that. 76 00:07:26,046 --> 00:07:27,490 And you're just like, well that's just me, 77 00:07:27,514 --> 00:07:28,847 I'm just doing that. 78 00:07:28,882 --> 00:07:30,159 - When I look at photos, I'm like, 79 00:07:30,183 --> 00:07:32,684 why am I smiling all the time? 80 00:07:32,719 --> 00:07:34,196 Instantly, like as soon as I'm paddling out, 81 00:07:34,220 --> 00:07:36,221 I'm just like, go out, this is sick. 82 00:07:36,256 --> 00:07:38,122 It's like, yeah. 83 00:07:38,157 --> 00:07:39,991 - I've always wanted to know if that was 84 00:07:40,026 --> 00:07:42,193 something you think about, and it just is happening. 85 00:07:42,228 --> 00:07:43,761 - Yeah, it just happens. 86 00:07:45,665 --> 00:07:46,965 - This is the winner here. 87 00:07:47,000 --> 00:07:47,832 - Here we go, let's go. 88 00:07:47,868 --> 00:07:49,211 - Alright, ready? - Let's do it. 89 00:07:49,235 --> 00:07:50,068 This is real race. 90 00:07:50,103 --> 00:07:50,935 - Go! 91 00:07:50,970 --> 00:07:51,736 - Go. 92 00:07:51,771 --> 00:07:53,505 - Mine is light and nimble. 93 00:07:53,540 --> 00:07:55,540 - Yeah, but his legs are shorter 94 00:07:55,575 --> 00:07:56,842 than Tom Carold. 95 00:07:57,810 --> 00:07:59,677 - What the fuck. 96 00:07:59,712 --> 00:08:01,713 You know what I think? 97 00:08:03,816 --> 00:08:04,827 That's what I think about that crap. 98 00:08:04,851 --> 00:08:08,854 - That's a full brotherly tantrum right there. 99 00:08:13,793 --> 00:08:14,559 - I didn't even think about that, 100 00:08:14,594 --> 00:08:15,838 that we hadn't done a trip before. 101 00:08:15,862 --> 00:08:17,006 - We haven't done a trip, huh? 102 00:08:17,030 --> 00:08:18,730 We've just like surfed around and, 103 00:08:18,765 --> 00:08:20,732 well I know we like the same kind of waves. 104 00:08:20,767 --> 00:08:22,200 - Wait, do you still get nervous? 105 00:08:22,235 --> 00:08:23,067 - In contests? 106 00:08:23,102 --> 00:08:23,935 - Yeah. 107 00:08:23,970 --> 00:08:24,802 - Sometimes. 108 00:08:24,838 --> 00:08:27,672 Just, if I don't feel confident, I do. 109 00:08:27,707 --> 00:08:30,708 - There's an expression in the psychology world. 110 00:08:30,743 --> 00:08:32,944 If you spot it, you got it. 111 00:08:34,080 --> 00:08:36,214 The judgments you make of others 112 00:08:36,249 --> 00:08:39,718 are quite often reflections of yourself. 113 00:08:52,298 --> 00:08:54,766 - If you get to a spiritual place within yourself 114 00:08:54,801 --> 00:08:56,968 and you're competing and that's all connected, 115 00:08:57,003 --> 00:09:01,139 that you're happy for the other guy when he beats you. 116 00:09:03,242 --> 00:09:05,076 That's a hard place to obtain, 117 00:09:05,111 --> 00:09:07,779 because if you're totally comfortable with yourself, 118 00:09:07,814 --> 00:09:10,315 which is more important than winning something, 119 00:09:10,350 --> 00:09:14,152 that you're happy when the other person wins. 120 00:10:44,343 --> 00:10:46,110 - It's funny because I feel like Dave and I 121 00:10:46,145 --> 00:10:48,946 are very similar people in a lot of ways, 122 00:10:48,981 --> 00:10:53,084 but the paths that we've taken are so different. 123 00:10:53,119 --> 00:10:54,263 - That's a skill I don't have. 124 00:10:54,287 --> 00:10:55,453 - But you could though. 125 00:10:55,488 --> 00:10:57,989 - Yeah, if there's enough incentive in it for me. 126 00:10:58,024 --> 00:10:59,201 - If you could ride like tons 127 00:10:59,225 --> 00:11:00,825 of different boards in every heat. 128 00:11:00,860 --> 00:11:04,996 - Yeah, that would, that would probably help. 129 00:11:15,208 --> 00:11:19,043 You've been on the road for probably 10 years maybe, yeah? 130 00:11:19,078 --> 00:11:20,211 Nine, 10 years. 131 00:11:20,246 --> 00:11:21,323 - Yes, this is my 10th year. 132 00:11:21,347 --> 00:11:23,214 - And how does that, does it feel different? 133 00:11:23,249 --> 00:11:25,817 - Yeah, I had a pretty one track mind for a lot of years, 134 00:11:25,852 --> 00:11:27,396 just like, yeah, let's just surf and win, 135 00:11:27,420 --> 00:11:29,287 and that's kind of it. 136 00:11:40,333 --> 00:11:43,301 - If I could tell the 10 or 12 year old me 137 00:11:43,336 --> 00:11:45,870 that I was going to get to do this trip, 138 00:11:45,905 --> 00:11:50,041 just me and Dorian, I would literally lose my mind. 139 00:11:55,782 --> 00:11:56,815 That was there. 140 00:11:56,850 --> 00:12:00,785 I was like, you can't get much better than that. 141 00:12:05,792 --> 00:12:06,925 - Ow, no, hey. 142 00:12:32,251 --> 00:12:34,051 - I remember just being a little guy 143 00:12:34,086 --> 00:12:36,487 and hearing that line, we should dance 144 00:12:36,522 --> 00:12:40,258 like no one's watching, and it's just like yeah, totally. 145 00:12:40,293 --> 00:12:41,493 That's just it. 146 00:12:42,829 --> 00:12:45,363 How to surf, how I'm feeling to surf, 147 00:12:45,398 --> 00:12:48,366 and if things come from that, awesome, 148 00:12:48,401 --> 00:12:50,334 what a blessing, and if they don't, whatever. 149 00:12:50,369 --> 00:12:52,136 I'm just having a grove in my own way, 150 00:12:52,171 --> 00:12:53,504 and that's cool, too. 151 00:12:53,539 --> 00:12:55,017 - Must be a pretty good dancer, then, 152 00:12:55,041 --> 00:12:55,973 if you stand by that. 153 00:12:56,008 --> 00:12:57,876 - I'm terrible. 154 00:13:03,950 --> 00:13:07,084 - Nice to get the waves. 155 00:13:07,119 --> 00:13:08,987 Doesn't always happen. 156 00:13:17,263 --> 00:13:18,830 Did we want to show up on this trip 157 00:13:18,865 --> 00:13:21,065 and drive around for three days in the rain 158 00:13:21,100 --> 00:13:23,901 and get completely skunked? 159 00:13:23,936 --> 00:13:27,371 That's now like what we would plan, right? 160 00:13:27,406 --> 00:13:28,450 - I'm fine with it, though. 161 00:13:28,474 --> 00:13:29,618 - And you just roll with it, 162 00:13:29,642 --> 00:13:30,975 you roll with the punches, like, 163 00:13:31,010 --> 00:13:34,111 you deal with that, and out of that comes 164 00:13:34,146 --> 00:13:36,347 good things, I'm convinced. 165 00:13:55,001 --> 00:13:56,300 - You have this idea of like 166 00:13:56,335 --> 00:13:58,436 the ultimate wave of Jaws, you could be 167 00:13:58,471 --> 00:14:01,172 waiting until you're 30 right now for that chance. 168 00:14:01,207 --> 00:14:03,040 - Yeah, or it could be weeks. 169 00:14:03,075 --> 00:14:04,275 - Or it could be weeks. 170 00:14:04,310 --> 00:14:07,945 And you always have to be ready for that. 171 00:14:41,080 --> 00:14:42,446 - So dry reef. 172 00:14:42,481 --> 00:14:46,984 - Yeah, like a foot of water on the reef. 173 00:14:47,019 --> 00:14:49,554 - It's not really a wave. 174 00:14:50,723 --> 00:14:52,935 - You kind of blend the gender thing, you get rid of it. 175 00:14:52,959 --> 00:14:54,536 It's like, yeah, I've always thought it was funny, 176 00:14:54,560 --> 00:14:57,461 I mean, there's always the big complement, 177 00:14:57,496 --> 00:14:58,562 you surf like a guy. 178 00:14:58,597 --> 00:15:03,334 In my head, my most favorite male surfers to watch 179 00:15:03,369 --> 00:15:04,936 are Joel... 180 00:15:04,971 --> 00:15:05,670 - Surf like women? 181 00:15:05,705 --> 00:15:07,639 - Yourself, Tom Curren. 182 00:15:08,708 --> 00:15:11,242 And to me having that splash of femininity 183 00:15:11,277 --> 00:15:14,279 is exactly what makes it so stylish. 184 00:15:15,715 --> 00:15:17,481 It just looks magical. 185 00:15:17,516 --> 00:15:19,984 To me, that's what style is. 186 00:16:25,785 --> 00:16:27,718 - Did you ever compete? 187 00:16:27,753 --> 00:16:29,020 - I competed. 188 00:16:30,056 --> 00:16:32,123 Just wasn't built for it. 189 00:16:33,426 --> 00:16:35,370 Have like guys paddling over me, and I'd be like, 190 00:16:35,394 --> 00:16:39,363 aw, I don't need to fight you for this wave. 191 00:16:39,398 --> 00:16:41,332 This isn't what it's about. 192 00:16:41,367 --> 00:16:43,368 You go, you can have it. 193 00:16:45,838 --> 00:16:47,738 - If I try and save my queen right now, 194 00:16:47,773 --> 00:16:51,809 you're going to get me check in the next move. 195 00:16:51,844 --> 00:16:53,244 - Uh huh, I am. 196 00:16:59,685 --> 00:17:03,688 - I realized I won a few games on the last move, 197 00:17:04,557 --> 00:17:06,424 and it just put this thing in my head, 198 00:17:06,459 --> 00:17:07,569 don't ever count yourself out. 199 00:17:07,593 --> 00:17:08,426 - Yeah, you never know. 200 00:17:08,461 --> 00:17:09,326 - You're never out. 201 00:17:09,361 --> 00:17:10,394 You don't know. 202 00:17:10,429 --> 00:17:12,240 You could get, like surfing, you could get a 10 203 00:17:12,264 --> 00:17:13,775 and a guy gets an interference and gets in your way, 204 00:17:13,799 --> 00:17:15,266 you won somehow. 205 00:17:16,602 --> 00:17:18,402 - For me, if I was at an event 206 00:17:18,437 --> 00:17:19,637 and I would see a section, 207 00:17:19,672 --> 00:17:20,716 and it was just a beautiful section 208 00:17:20,740 --> 00:17:24,175 I kind of wanted to admire more than I wanted to 209 00:17:24,210 --> 00:17:26,710 burn through, I'd just glide through it. 210 00:17:26,745 --> 00:17:29,280 Aw, this feels amazing. 211 00:17:29,315 --> 00:17:32,149 'Cause I used do that, and I'd just get destroyed. 212 00:17:32,184 --> 00:17:33,384 4.2, 3.5, five. 213 00:17:36,355 --> 00:17:37,621 - I just love it. 214 00:17:37,656 --> 00:17:40,124 I love, I love like the test of seeing if 215 00:17:40,159 --> 00:17:42,093 I still have what it takes. 216 00:17:42,128 --> 00:17:44,695 You see yourself like being interested in it 217 00:17:44,730 --> 00:17:48,099 once you're like in your 30s and closer to 40? 218 00:17:48,134 --> 00:17:49,167 - Yeah. 219 00:17:49,202 --> 00:17:50,679 I think a lot of guys are out there like antsing, 220 00:17:50,703 --> 00:17:52,770 like, I gotta get it done right now, this winter. 221 00:17:52,805 --> 00:17:55,506 Like it's El Nino or this is the swell. 222 00:17:55,541 --> 00:17:57,475 But when you see guys that have a long career 223 00:17:57,510 --> 00:17:59,777 with so many good waves over so many years, 224 00:17:59,812 --> 00:18:02,880 it's just like, you can kind of take your time. 225 00:18:02,915 --> 00:18:04,281 - You have 20 years. 226 00:18:04,316 --> 00:18:05,282 - Yeah. 227 00:18:05,317 --> 00:18:07,184 - What made y'all want to, was it the process 228 00:18:07,219 --> 00:18:08,853 or the actual end result? 229 00:18:08,888 --> 00:18:11,589 - Um, it was both, it was both, 230 00:18:11,624 --> 00:18:13,357 and there were definitely years 231 00:18:13,392 --> 00:18:15,159 where it was one or the other. 232 00:18:15,194 --> 00:18:17,394 It wasn't always like both at the same time. 233 00:18:17,429 --> 00:18:18,596 - Yeah. 234 00:18:18,631 --> 00:18:20,664 - I, a lot of time... 235 00:18:20,699 --> 00:18:23,200 - I think for me, though, like 100 percent, 236 00:18:23,235 --> 00:18:25,369 like looking backwards, definitely the process 237 00:18:25,404 --> 00:18:27,371 and not the end, like not the after. 238 00:18:27,406 --> 00:18:28,339 - Yeah. 239 00:18:28,374 --> 00:18:29,907 - I have that feeling like. 240 00:18:29,942 --> 00:18:33,177 - Yeah, I think early on in my career 241 00:18:33,212 --> 00:18:34,512 it was definitely the process. 242 00:18:34,547 --> 00:18:36,247 I mean, I wanted to win the world title 243 00:18:36,282 --> 00:18:38,315 in a really bad way, but to me it was like 244 00:18:38,350 --> 00:18:42,353 I can't get there unless I get my process right. 245 00:19:36,442 --> 00:19:37,586 Or like having pipe to yourself. 246 00:19:37,610 --> 00:19:40,878 - Would you rather have a heat at firing 247 00:19:41,880 --> 00:19:44,315 Cloudbreak by yourself or with one other guy, 248 00:19:44,350 --> 00:19:48,486 or have a free surf with a couple of your friends? 249 00:19:52,825 --> 00:19:56,393 - Yeah, probably free surf, I guess. 250 00:19:56,428 --> 00:19:58,495 I don't know, 'cause it's also like, 251 00:19:58,530 --> 00:19:59,964 that's our one stage, you know, 252 00:19:59,999 --> 00:20:04,668 like to kind of show the world what we have or whatever. 253 00:20:04,703 --> 00:20:06,237 Look it, my guy came back. 254 00:20:06,272 --> 00:20:08,940 He crawled back in from the ocean. 255 00:20:14,780 --> 00:20:16,458 - Everyone's rushing to become something, 256 00:20:16,482 --> 00:20:18,582 but it's like no, there's a natural progression 257 00:20:18,617 --> 00:20:20,517 that you just evolve into who you are 258 00:20:20,552 --> 00:20:23,988 and it's never going to be probably what you set out to be. 259 00:20:24,023 --> 00:20:25,400 It could be completely different, 260 00:20:25,424 --> 00:20:27,324 but you just have to be open to it. 261 00:20:27,359 --> 00:20:28,959 - I grew up idolizing Tom Curren. 262 00:20:28,994 --> 00:20:29,893 - Yeah. 263 00:20:29,929 --> 00:20:31,339 - And I was like, I want to surf like him. 264 00:20:31,363 --> 00:20:32,507 I'd try to hold my arms like him. 265 00:20:32,531 --> 00:20:33,675 I did these like head snaps and stuff, 266 00:20:33,699 --> 00:20:37,368 and then I think at some point I realized 267 00:20:37,403 --> 00:20:38,569 I'm not fucking Tom Curren. 268 00:20:38,604 --> 00:20:39,270 - Exactly. 269 00:20:39,305 --> 00:20:41,472 - I have a different approach, 270 00:20:41,507 --> 00:20:44,575 I have a different foundation and I think differently. 271 00:20:44,610 --> 00:20:46,343 I'm not the same personality. 272 00:20:46,378 --> 00:20:47,922 - Yeah, different things calm me down, 273 00:20:47,946 --> 00:20:49,647 different things get you psyched up. 274 00:20:49,682 --> 00:20:52,016 - But you also have, if you're trying to be someone else, 275 00:20:52,051 --> 00:20:54,485 if you're not offering the world what you have 276 00:20:54,520 --> 00:20:56,353 for people to see. 277 00:20:56,388 --> 00:20:57,388 - Yeah. 278 00:21:00,359 --> 00:21:04,495 - His holiness the 14th Dalai Lama was once asked 279 00:21:05,497 --> 00:21:08,732 what surprised him most about mankind, 280 00:21:08,767 --> 00:21:12,903 and he answered, "Man, because he sacrifices his health 281 00:21:13,839 --> 00:21:16,440 "in order to make money, 282 00:21:16,475 --> 00:21:20,611 "and then he sacrifices his money to regain his health. 283 00:21:23,515 --> 00:21:26,784 "He lives as if he's never going to die, 284 00:21:28,721 --> 00:21:32,390 "and then dies, having never really lived." 285 00:25:52,117 --> 00:25:55,252 - If we actually look at the state of the world now 286 00:25:55,287 --> 00:25:57,888 and yes, we live in one of the most peaceful times 287 00:25:57,923 --> 00:26:01,291 between each other in terms of war and conflict, 288 00:26:01,326 --> 00:26:04,061 we actually live in the most violent time 289 00:26:04,096 --> 00:26:07,364 between ourselves and the planet. 290 00:26:07,399 --> 00:26:10,167 Like we're just literally destroying the place 291 00:26:10,202 --> 00:26:11,936 that looks after us. 292 00:26:31,423 --> 00:26:33,691 The weight? 5? 293 00:26:34,726 --> 00:26:37,828 The dog escaped. Bella, catch Estrella! 294 00:26:43,135 --> 00:26:45,869 - What would you be doing if you didn't surf? 295 00:26:45,904 --> 00:26:47,304 Would you be a fisherman? 296 00:26:47,339 --> 00:26:51,375 - I don't like, uh, blood, yeah. 297 00:26:51,410 --> 00:26:53,844 - I hung out with this chef in Brazil. 298 00:26:53,879 --> 00:26:56,079 He had this tank, and there was all these fish 299 00:26:56,114 --> 00:26:58,426 swimming around in it, and there was a duck sitting on top. 300 00:26:58,450 --> 00:27:01,018 You take the fish out of the water, 301 00:27:01,053 --> 00:27:02,386 and no one really phases, right? 302 00:27:02,421 --> 00:27:04,032 You see a fish out of the water, it's like 303 00:27:04,056 --> 00:27:05,433 flopping around, you know, kind of. 304 00:27:05,457 --> 00:27:07,391 It's like gasping for air. 305 00:27:07,426 --> 00:27:08,859 - Struggling. 306 00:27:08,894 --> 00:27:11,094 - And the whole audience didn't really care. 307 00:27:11,129 --> 00:27:14,698 And then he grabbed the duck, and stuck it underwater. 308 00:27:14,733 --> 00:27:17,267 And everyone freaked out. 309 00:27:17,302 --> 00:27:18,135 Because... 310 00:27:18,170 --> 00:27:19,036 - Did the exact same... 311 00:27:19,071 --> 00:27:21,104 - And they're like, you're killing him. 312 00:27:21,139 --> 00:27:23,674 And he's like, well, what's the difference? 313 00:27:23,709 --> 00:27:25,842 - No difference at all. 314 00:27:25,877 --> 00:27:28,278 - This is getting deep, sorry. 315 00:27:29,314 --> 00:27:33,717 - Who would you rather be, the duck or the fish? 316 00:27:33,752 --> 00:27:34,951 - Where's the blob? 317 00:27:34,986 --> 00:27:36,097 Should have got that thing out today. 318 00:27:36,121 --> 00:27:37,388 - Ready? 319 00:27:39,424 --> 00:27:41,091 Oh. 320 00:27:41,126 --> 00:27:44,828 - I feel like that should have gone farther out. 321 00:27:51,069 --> 00:27:52,980 - Is that a good wave, is it a totally shitty wave, 322 00:27:53,004 --> 00:27:54,805 is it rideable, is it unrideable? 323 00:27:54,840 --> 00:27:55,873 - Yeah. 324 00:27:55,908 --> 00:27:57,085 - It's the whole experience of just trying 325 00:27:57,109 --> 00:27:58,953 to like go out there and just wing it and see if it's... 326 00:27:58,977 --> 00:28:01,178 - See if it's a wave. 327 00:29:14,352 --> 00:29:17,320 - The traveling is getting better for me 328 00:29:17,355 --> 00:29:21,458 because I'm opening more up and excited to think 329 00:29:21,493 --> 00:29:23,527 oh cool, I wonder what is around the corner 330 00:29:23,562 --> 00:29:25,429 that will happen next. 331 00:29:47,219 --> 00:29:50,153 - I might have been your age, a little bit older, 332 00:29:50,188 --> 00:29:54,191 when I was just like, yeah, sure, let's go. 333 00:29:54,226 --> 00:29:56,059 - Where are we going? 334 00:29:56,094 --> 00:29:58,395 - Craig's just, are you the yes man? 335 00:29:58,430 --> 00:30:00,564 - Yeah, I just go along on it for the ride. 336 00:30:00,599 --> 00:30:04,935 - He's the yes man, he's just like yeah, I'm in. 337 00:31:50,642 --> 00:31:52,042 We almost hit. 338 00:31:52,077 --> 00:31:53,710 That was pretty close. 339 00:31:53,745 --> 00:31:56,613 I could see the fear in your eyes. 340 00:32:02,253 --> 00:32:03,653 - I didn't look at that. 341 00:32:03,688 --> 00:32:05,489 - Oh, that was heavy. 342 00:33:16,194 --> 00:33:19,029 - For me, surfing actually can be the perfect 343 00:33:19,064 --> 00:33:20,730 type of rite of passage where we have 344 00:33:20,765 --> 00:33:23,366 these distinct moments where you're different 345 00:33:23,401 --> 00:33:25,335 after you experience it. 346 00:33:25,370 --> 00:33:29,373 You're like, okay, I'm going to do this forever. 347 00:36:35,627 --> 00:36:39,763 - Much like our bodies, our minds love to wander. 348 00:36:48,539 --> 00:36:52,508 When our thoughts drift, maybe to something at work, 349 00:36:52,543 --> 00:36:56,680 we fail to notice a set approaching on the horizon, 350 00:36:58,683 --> 00:37:00,951 or the changing of the tide. 351 00:37:14,832 --> 00:37:16,766 - I think my phone is 352 00:37:16,801 --> 00:37:19,702 the biggest part of stress in my life. 353 00:37:19,737 --> 00:37:21,704 - Like I'm kind of addicted to my phone, 354 00:37:21,739 --> 00:37:23,573 but when I get away from it, it's so nice. 355 00:37:23,608 --> 00:37:24,985 - Yeah, in a way it's kind of cool 356 00:37:25,009 --> 00:37:26,876 just to let it all go. 357 00:40:24,021 --> 00:40:25,532 - I'm getting pretty good at darts, you guys. 358 00:40:25,556 --> 00:40:27,590 We've been shooting this for a while. 359 00:40:27,625 --> 00:40:28,625 Come on. 360 00:40:28,660 --> 00:40:30,003 - When you're a kid, you're just like fuck it, 361 00:40:30,027 --> 00:40:32,595 I'm 18, I have nothing to lose. 362 00:40:32,630 --> 00:40:34,041 And when you get married and have kids 363 00:40:34,065 --> 00:40:35,065 and that kind of stuff. 364 00:40:35,100 --> 00:40:35,999 - Because I don't know how much longer 365 00:40:36,034 --> 00:40:37,644 I'll feel comfortable on waves like that. 366 00:40:37,668 --> 00:40:38,935 - Oh, there you go. 367 00:40:38,970 --> 00:40:40,904 - Oh, is it in? 368 00:41:05,162 --> 00:41:07,864 - If you give a really good slab surfer 369 00:41:07,899 --> 00:41:10,666 like a blank canvas and said like 370 00:41:10,701 --> 00:41:14,704 design something that you really want to surf, 371 00:41:14,739 --> 00:41:17,173 like the optimum slab, 372 00:41:17,208 --> 00:41:18,074 like what would it look like, 373 00:41:18,109 --> 00:41:19,220 what would it look like all around it, 374 00:41:19,244 --> 00:41:23,045 what would the reef look like, how would it be shaped? 375 00:41:23,080 --> 00:41:26,015 It's like it was designed by somebody with a big planer. 376 00:41:26,050 --> 00:41:28,718 Got the cliffs above it are like a big amphitheater 377 00:41:28,753 --> 00:41:30,186 and there's like these natural 378 00:41:30,221 --> 00:41:33,022 built-in stairs all the way down. 379 00:42:38,222 --> 00:42:42,091 Some of those waves are better off left alone. 380 00:43:34,945 --> 00:43:38,081 - Holy shit, that was the one. 381 00:43:50,394 --> 00:43:52,662 On the back, on the back. 382 00:43:56,834 --> 00:43:59,168 Yee-hoo, that was a good one. 383 00:44:46,350 --> 00:44:47,394 It would be radical by yourself, 384 00:44:47,418 --> 00:44:49,719 but it's so much better to surf dude. 385 00:44:49,754 --> 00:44:50,953 - Holy. 386 00:45:21,185 --> 00:45:22,185 Holy shit. 387 00:45:28,092 --> 00:45:29,825 Well yeah, that was like 388 00:45:29,860 --> 00:45:32,128 as scary as a wave that big can get, probably. 389 00:45:32,163 --> 00:45:33,896 - It's like almost as scary as Jaws 390 00:45:33,931 --> 00:45:36,298 in the waves were like just overhead. 391 00:45:36,333 --> 00:45:38,200 - I think what makes a good trip is 392 00:45:38,235 --> 00:45:40,903 just the people you hang out with. 393 00:45:40,938 --> 00:45:42,938 - Yeah, if you're going to sit in a car 394 00:45:42,973 --> 00:45:44,251 and drive for 12 hours, you're not 395 00:45:44,275 --> 00:45:45,875 ripping each other's heads off. 396 00:45:45,910 --> 00:45:47,977 You're laughing about it. 397 00:45:48,979 --> 00:45:53,315 - The message here is that life is for living. 398 00:45:53,350 --> 00:45:56,185 If you have the intention to live each moment 399 00:45:56,220 --> 00:46:01,023 to the fullest, even if you miss a few waves along the way, 400 00:46:01,058 --> 00:46:03,059 you're still doing good. 401 00:46:07,498 --> 00:46:08,498 - Does that count? 402 00:46:08,532 --> 00:46:09,465 - No. 403 00:46:09,500 --> 00:46:10,900 Hundred percent out. 404 00:46:22,079 --> 00:46:26,215 If you come to find out who you are 405 00:46:28,018 --> 00:46:32,155 Then may you find out, may you find out who you are 406 00:46:34,458 --> 00:46:38,795 And if you come to search for what is lost 407 00:46:40,431 --> 00:46:44,567 Then may you find it, may you find it at any cost 408 00:46:47,338 --> 00:46:49,939 And if you come 409 00:46:49,974 --> 00:46:53,142 Over from far 410 00:46:53,177 --> 00:46:57,313 May it not touch you, or ever do you harm 411 00:47:00,150 --> 00:47:02,451 And if you come 412 00:47:02,486 --> 00:47:05,021 Oh so soft 413 00:47:06,056 --> 00:47:10,193 You may look up one day and you'll be hard 414 00:47:16,267 --> 00:47:19,602 If I were to die today 415 00:47:22,506 --> 00:47:26,576 Slaughtered in that masquerade 416 00:47:29,046 --> 00:47:33,182 The last thing that you'd hear me say 417 00:47:35,386 --> 00:47:38,921 Put my body on display 418 00:47:40,691 --> 00:47:43,426 In the parade 419 00:47:48,365 --> 00:47:52,501 Passing slowly through the town 420 00:47:54,471 --> 00:47:58,608 My feet, they cannot touch the ground 421 00:48:00,177 --> 00:48:02,912 Of the parade 422 00:48:46,023 --> 00:48:49,959 All of my friends were there 423 00:48:52,329 --> 00:48:55,064 Waiting on me 424 00:48:58,535 --> 00:49:00,403 All 425 00:49:01,538 --> 00:49:05,040 The glory was there 426 00:49:05,075 --> 00:49:07,610 Waiting on me 427 00:49:11,582 --> 00:49:14,450 And I was there 428 00:49:17,654 --> 00:49:20,389 Waiting on me 429 00:49:23,727 --> 00:49:26,528 I have come 430 00:49:26,563 --> 00:49:29,665 And I will go 431 00:49:29,700 --> 00:49:32,368 Just to stay 432 00:49:33,570 --> 00:49:35,371 In 433 00:49:46,283 --> 00:49:48,050 - Are you, have you gotten to a point yet 434 00:49:48,085 --> 00:49:49,184 where you get burnt out? 435 00:49:49,219 --> 00:49:50,352 - Check. 436 00:49:50,387 --> 00:49:51,387 - Oh no. 437 00:49:58,429 --> 00:50:00,329 I haven't, I don't have a finger up yet. 438 00:50:00,364 --> 00:50:01,597 I got two moves I can do. 439 00:50:01,632 --> 00:50:03,272 I got to practically flip a coin here. 440 00:50:03,300 --> 00:50:06,168 - Actually that's not a bad move.