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come out in turnips, meat and lime.
If you peek carefully on tiny images
trying to find out who can spend so much
from his days near for small tortillas.
You might have concluded that was a surprising number
from taco comes from one source
Guerilla Tacos, a small operation that appears
a few days a week in Downtown Los Angeles.
Guerilla Tacos is beautiful taqueria single
the creation of Wes Avila
the culinary training came under Alain Ducasse in Paris.
Avila is making taco in a blank window
or stairs or garage space downtown in
and there are rumors about tacos made with diver scallops
strange vegetables and yellow tail sushi class
When I published a list of of the best dishes of 2013
I included the taco made with grilled squash
chewy Oaxacan cheese
and a little chili and charred tomatoes.
It looks like tortillas don't have to be done according to order but they are fresh and enough to burn.
Equivalent taco from energy
of what Chinese cooking sometimes calls
"Breath pan," is very influential.
A student of Ducasse, stop his job in a haute cuisine
pop up to serve Taco octopus scorched
on a street corner in the middle of the city.
You won't find cuisine like this anywhere, but LA.
[instrumental music]
[music continues]
I'm LA, I'm driving.
I, I am my truck, My truck is me
I will be a little unusual way.
I went down on the 10th not 5
that I might not be
[instrumental music]
Everyone in the world has what an idea Los Angeles is
Everyone thinks they know what Los Angeles means even if they have never been here
And if you live in Los Angeles, you're used to
have your city explain you
by people who come within a few weeks
live in an hotel in Beverly Hills
and enter what can they get
within 10 minutes in their rental car
Things that people find are hard to understand I think
is a kind of - the magnitude of what is here
A large number of people who live in the city
that comes together in this case beautiful and haphazard mode.
And you know, the mistake is the line between them
Sometimes where you find it the most beautiful thing
[instrumental music]
I mean, I became a food writer really because of an accident
but be what I want
The idea of celebrating, you know
the - noble mosaic from the city
on other people's money it's just really fun
and really right what I want to do
I mean, I keep feeling as if I've gone with something
- There must be a Jonathan Gold Los Angeles
and that is Los Angeles a Many people don't know.
He, like Raymond Chandler shows a vision
from Los Angeles That is a new vision.
- Jonathan changes world of food writing
because he is one of the first restaurant critics
who, who is perfect happy in...
I think I even think happier
write about hard to find small restaurants
in small small communities.
- Hi, how are you? - good How are you?
Can I get huarache de with flor de calabaza?
- Flor de calabaza huarache? - Yes.
- Sure. Do you want the cheese?
- Yeah. - Good.
- He goes to these places
where food criticism doesn't always go
and he goes to where mom and pop
where generations of tradition are being revealed
in cooking.
LA is great like that because you don't need to travel
far feels like you are traveling far
and - and I think that's what makes it interesting author
because he is very curious about the type of cuisine.
- This is the right little sauce from my grandmother
He, he came With this, with this sauce
so my mom just wants me to bring you some
so you can taste it and see how good it is.
Really, really, very good.
- Oh, there's salsa de semillas in it
- Yes, salsa de semillas
It has nuts, uh, uh, garlic, uh, hojuelas...
That's very good.
- thank you - You're welcome.
- The saddest moment in Boyle Heights street food
Most fans will agree
is night street vendors breed
finally chased from their scene
This meeting always happens
Rousted by police very often.
That's amazing how fast the circus
turns into quiet parking lot.
But Carmen Castellanos, Antojitos Carmen's soul
has worked Boyle Heights since the 1980s
and after a short stretch on the sidewalk
next to the view of the MTA building
He scratched together funds for real restaurants
just around the corner and bring with his family.
Other LA restaurants begin as street food
but nothing so clear as Antojitos Carmen.
You want these people to be successful.
- He became, a - figure of democratization
movements in, in culture, are not only writin '
not only in food writin ', but in the ability to tell stories
about America and the city from Los Angeles specifically
that other people don't write about. He gives value.
[instrumental music]
[laughs]
- This is good.
So, Alice, we... I want to talk about some of this, uh
the piece we want Jonathan to do.
- good
- Um, more advice.
- Okay, I feel so the most important thing
and we've talked a little about this before
is Grand Central Market section.
- It's true, indeed critical point.
It has become a definite symbol type of Los Angeles
for a very long time
As it has been rebuilt or a new restaurant enter
or - new ones fancy butchers
it will stop this place you are
associate with smell and taste and ..
Display of that section from Los Angeles
being kind valuable artisanal
you know, aren't we special to pay
$ 35.99 for skirt steak type of market
- You know, you can pupuseria
is next to, uh, a fancy cheese shop
- Yeah. - Is that a challenge? this, what is the owner now facing?
- This. I mean, I like many new places
and I always shop there
but you must have a place where you have
like, tastes
Sort of a century ago Los Angeles
exists with - modern sense.
There is something cultural about it, and there is something
about that which has become part of Los Angeles
which I think is a kind of magic.
It's like when you started cutting meat and bones from the market?
And that, it's difficult questions to answer, and I think
it will be something that is really interesting to overcome
- Yeah.
- I - I hope to get it for that part
faster than later.
- Whenever we talk about it criticism in New York...
... the name Jonathan Gold always appears
We always like, I hope we have Jonathan Gold
as our main critic in New York
because I think he is very fair
I think what separates Jonathan from the rest of the critics
is the level of empathy higher than other people
and I think it shows in his book - in his writing
but this is what pisses me off about J. Gold
I am somewhere which is very esoteric Chine ..
Uh, Korean chicken barbecue.
I like, "This is great. I will not tell anyone about that."
And then, in the corner I saw Jonathan Gold's review
and I like, "Motherfucker."
He knows every place. I don't know how he did it.
You know, I don't know Korea knows more about
Korean food from Jonathan Gold.
I don't know anyone who knows every taco stops.
- I was in the wrong truck, There are other fish.
- I know. That's good too.
The - the Cuatro Vientos has, it's always there
and sometimes the path is longer - Un taco! - Ready to order?
- Uh, yes, of course
You tweeted about a, eh
tostada this morning, Sounds really good.
What was that?
- Yeah.
- Good.
- I met Jonathan quite a lot.
He entered the newsroom.
He sees, acts like him that the place is practical
and I think he one of the larger writers.
It turns out he is so just a proofreader
at that time and I was apprenticed
He invited me to his apartment
for his mother's pie, uh, peach
So, um, that - that has changed a lot
He sent roses the next day.
- Oh thank you very much.
- When I wake up this morning and see that tweet
it's like, I know I have to come here.
- Yeah. This is very spicy.
- Oh good. - That looks good.
- It's amazing for us, people like him, uh, that, who wrote.
He said that, uh, this is Taco number 1 for him
and, uh, a - actually we enter the process of getting a loan
from Bank to get another truck.
People ask us to go to Orange County and San Diego.
- This, I will hold this
- I gather that this is unusual for married people
as long as we have, want to hang out
together so much time, but we do.
- You know I have wanted it for a long time You have to do this anonymity
for a long time?
There is still an old idea a restaurant critic
must be anonymous, but you know...
- Laurie can't edit my pieces again
But he has this strange ability
get the best from the author
- And that, uh, are we quoting?
- Maybe, like, 1, like, a small story of 11 inches.
- A strange way that he did it with me
Maybe, maybe not great for marriage
but that, he suggested something and ..
... I will, like, say it really...
N - no, that's not the way works, but on the road, like
explain to him that it is not how it works
I understand how it works.
- I mean, other people have written about it, but no - not on the road ..
I don't think in a deeper way that you want to do it
- Do you think history anonymity in a restaurant?
- It must be so very cool.
[instrumental music]
- Maybe is ideal for being anonymous
I mean, I - of course I'm early in my career.
punk rock boy with my friend who has a pair of pants.
And - and we are not escorted
to a good table near the window
but cri, whatever criticism who is the restaurant
will be recognized immediately.
where someone will tweet your image
before you arrive your first cocktail right?
may not pass with it almost like them think them
which means no from restaurant owners
or very little they know what I look like
- Oy, gevalt - I'm almost -
- Oh, you don't know that I will use this thing?
- Well, I heard that you are...
- I believe it's positive value, others disagree with me
but I always want on the consumer side
and, uh, have eaten that experience...
... as usual people will have
People have told me that is my photo in the kitchen
but with the mask.
[laughter]
- I mean, I think it's important to get
unbiased views how is a cooking place
because they will treat people
they know they are writing they are very different.
Ruth Reichl's famous review of Le Cirque
where he goes undercover like this
shabby women and treated like garbage and then
The next week go dressed like her and be treated
like queen and write parallel review
- I do everything things you have to do
I always order with a different name
I changed its name I am under
I turn on the phone the number I saved under
I mean, I have a whole series throwing out the phone
I just use to order
This - like type
This - like that version of that fat person
from "Bourne Identity," I thought.
[laughter]
[instrumental music]
- Sir, nice to see you again How are you?
- good How are you? - awesome That's great.
- Bonsoir - Bonsoir
- Hello
- I never knew when Jonathan would come.
I didn't know the night before, You know, I don't know.
This is really the last minute, you know, I have never had a reservation
for Jonathan Gold, 6 people.
No, that's another name and boom, he's here.
♪ Do it do ♪♪
Panic in the kitchen.
Nuts, nuts are bad al dente, man, you eat peas?
You have nothing to do, John? You have nothing to do
- No, I have to do something, but...
- But what?
I am always eager to cook for him because of Jonathan Gold
is a critic who is very open to trying new things.
- Oh my God. That's crazy.
I saw boiled corn when I entered
- this is good
- So what makes Ludo Ludo?
- Part of it grows up as a chef on the road
which is almost non-existent.
You know, has good fortune
to work well in the kitchen
with the three most interesting chefs in France and I think the way he is just...
He loves Los Angeles.
He - he likes to work with the results here
He likes the type of person who lives here
He wants to do something personal that - that means something for him as a chef
and Los Angeles always be the place
Of course in the United States, where can you come
and you can... rediscover yourself.
- Sometimes as a chef we don't see what we create
When Jonathan Gold gave me an amazing review
for Ludo Bite in 2007, I didn't realize what I created
but Jonathan opened my eyes.
Wow! I just realized I made a new concept.
- Food and writing have been lost together throughout history.
If you see France in the 18th century
or China in the 12th century, uh, there is no food There is food and someone who writes about it
food and someone Think about it
and that relationship is what changes food from fuel
for food to be an art form.
It is true that literature, is true drama
that's true of all cultural art forms
write what makes them digestible
so to speak with the masses.
You try to tell a story
make that experience be something much bigger
But at some point, everyone
I mean, look at Yelp, This is an American thing where everyone last believes they are critics
and they are experts.
[instrumental music]
- You know, now everyone thinks
"Oh, I can go to a restaurant
and write what I think about it."
And if I use words like
Brush your teeth, you know, then, "Hey, me - I'm a food writer."
- They all seem use amazing words now.
"Incredible! Amazing Mexican Corn!"
You know, it's like, it's amazing doesn't tell me anything - What is the role of critic
is the question being asked
and I think every area culture is now
Because that's how it is, "Okay, why? Do I need food critics?
" If I have Yelp, and why? I need book criticism
if I have Amazon reviews? "
I think what critics criticize to the table is knowledge.
You know that he does his homework
You know, if you really are interested in the subject
You will find criticism that - it talks to you
that you don't always agree with
But that, that's what you talk to
you feel You will learn something from
that you - You find a new way
see something after reads what they have to say
- The biggest thing in the restaurant above
let's say the last 40 years have been
introduction to diversity.
[speaking in a foreign language]
When Craig Claiborne in the 60s
is reviewing expensive restaurants in New York
They are almost all French.
Then when you start getting cuisine from all directions
You can't see cuisine as one more thing.
There can be a thousand different restaurants
that's good thousand different ways.
- Two sheets of laws in 1965 and 1986
increasing in number from migrants
which standard quota is removed preferably migration from Europe
open, uh, I - immigration to a much wider person.
LA is the leading in diversity population growth.
Immigrant populations have defined the country.
This is defined by Los Angeles.
We are us because of our diversity.
- Green beans...
... carrots, peppers...
- my name is tui I am a chef from Jitlada restaurant
I never went to cooking school, but I learned from my grandmother
He taught me everything, you know, like, uh...
Like, uh, you know, how to grow lemongrass
how to grow coconut, how to grow turmeric
In 2006, I bought a Jitlada restaurant but initially we lose money.
- We will go to Jitlada right now.
This is my favorite Thai restaurant in Los Angeles.
It serves all kinds of foods Thailand
but what specialization in this is very spicy, aromatic
spicy cuisine from Southern Thailand
"Warning, if you don't eat spicy food, don't order this."
The - spicier, actually feels better
because feeling becomes balanced
because that's how it was designed - He has a very good ceiling on his tongue
because he can separate, like, "Oh, you have this here."
I - I start laughing. Especially with my Thai coffee.
No one in the whole world is wide, even my family
I don't know what I put it there, but he knows.
I learned from customers that Jonathan Gold
important for the community in America.
And one day he came here and they all laugh and they say
"Jonathan Gold in front of you."
And I remember my feet, trembling like this, like
"Oh my God, is that Jonathan Gold?"
But still I don't know who he is, just the name
- Okay thank you.
If he is, if he issues it with this
then you know it's hot
- This is extra chili You can pour beef if...
[speaking in a foreign language]
- This, it's pretty spicy.
[laughs]
- Oh no, it's okay
- Oof.
- After he wrote about our restaurant people, they wait, you know, before we open.
They bring newspapers.
I want to eat in the south Thai food, and after that
We are a famous restaurant everyone knows
I, I feel, like, very arrogant, you know
If he wants to study in America, do you know?
- See you later, thank you again. yours food is always so good
- Okay thank you.
[instrumental music]
- One of the amazing things about Los Angeles
is that true is a therapy below it's fun
And of course, some people think
what is this place
[instrumental music]
- I think you can build it a city of whatever shape you like
as long as it works
And you say, "Work, Los Angeles works?"
Everyone tells you it doesn't work
- Reyner Banham book out in the early 70s
and he is the first person who, I think makes sense
from Los Angeles for many people.
This change occurs in Los Angeles
which is typical of many changes that are happening
in another city in this country.
And somehow or other, Los Angeles has arrived there first.
- Right then, Los Angeles needs some explanation
because it is usually considered
as unspeakable messy
although it's certainly not by me.
- Almost all cities in the 19th century
20th century, grew from the center to the outside.
Los Angeles is different.
You have started post modern settings
where their edges are more important than the center
And all of this different center has grown
and they collide with each other
becomes one giant megalopolis from 18 to 20 million people.
And this city is so big and so vast and so diverse
that allows for, intersections between major space
to be occupied by people to create what they want.
And here is where Gold, as a critic of city life comes in
He provides a map for us.
The culinary mapping becomes a regional cartography and through leading us, we come to understand our city.
- Los Angeles is indeed a lot of _ independent communities.
We have a community people here
who doesn't cook for tourists
and they don't cook for newspaper critics
and they don't cook for that glory
They are cooking because they are filling up
special needs owned by their community.
Therefore, be almost... anti-melting pot
less melting pot than a kind of large glittering mosaic.
[instrumental music]
There is no end to pleasure in the San Gabriel Valley.
And this, uh, El Monte is right.
Ca - can't you feel it? electricity and excitement in the air?
People not from Los Angeles sometimes don't understand
Beauty that you can find in small malls
That's probably the best dim sum in the city today
That's what's left, uh, Chinese Islamic restaurant
Oh, this, this is Lupe's, this is the place I love.
If you think I love everything
goods in the restaurant are really disgusting.
The place we just passed is called the famous Pho Huynh
for boiled cow penis in your pho
That place, uh, uh, Like the best, uh, nim nong.
You - You have another place pho
Oh yeah, that's it. Said, "Pho Kim."
Or Pho Kim?
Which one...
Sometimes they don't, like, think about this through
This is Yee-Lou interesting
because it's true ancient
The Chinese American place has been taken over by the Chinese
who is doing American Chinese food
as exotic food for Chinese to eat.
Here is the Nanjing
kitchen who specialize in in duck dishes only...
I'm not sure it's the most Fun duck in the world
but it's perfect on the road.
This is kind of, boiled duck with absolute
all fats are taken from it.
But that's right
You know, in this case a really ordinary place
There, happen to be extraordinary food
This is the miracle entry level capitalism I think
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- My name is Genet Agonafer, and I am from Ethiopia I cam 1981, Valentine's Day with my child
with my 5-year-old son
Lemeneh Tefera is his name.
I moved to LA to provide my child with education
and I am working as a servant for years.
I raised my son to be a servant for years.
And that sweet kid is my child now.
I have another picture.
This is when he graduated from medical school
and he has been practicing medicine for 12 years
This space is open and my son is generous
take a down payment practically on all credit cards they have
and open it for me.
Initially I was very busy, and then 9/11 came
and then only is really stuck
and my child pumps money to keep the place alive
And then suddenly, review comes
and me, like, "Oh, my God."
Every day I will do it people come out in a line.
Celebrities come.
I can't cook Doro wat is fast enough.
But for me, it's very important to tell my child I can succeed
and whenever he comes here, Now he is very proud.
- It takes special temperament to be a food critic.
You must have, you know, mix, sort of
um, ego, and, um
and-and flowers and obsession with food
that very few people have.
- My first year Outside of college, I'm working downtown
as proofreader, and I'm bored out of my mind.
So I decided to make it my project to eat
in every restaurant on Pico Boulevard.
Pico Boulevard is a type The back porch is Los Angeles.
This goes through an extraordinary city plot.
There is a place called Cafe El Salvador
on the east end.
That was one of the first Places of Salvador in the city
and walk in The end of Santa Monica is a place called Tom No. 5
who has my favorite chili fries in the city
That's very good chili fried
Pico, in a certain sense is where I learn to eat.
I also saw my first punk rock Show in Pico, shot
fall in love, fascinated 164
watching a knife fight, taking cello lessons
lift the chicken, eat Oki Dogs
and hear X Ice-Cube Hole and Willie Dixon appear
though not together.
It's very interesting go every night
and to sit somewhere and have a plate of rice and beans
or papusas me and listen for dialogue around me
to see stacks newspapers people read
for, you know, see what's on TV
it continues in the corner
to see what people are talking about.
I gradually start looking for things I don't know.
Mexican restaurant not all are just Mexican restaurants
and they are from different areas of Mexico.
This is the time for in the early '80s
when war is bad in Central America
many people migrate to Los Angeles
And they start out selling street food
then they open small restaurant
and when I was in the middle of my project
they have been colonized whole strip
I learned this very quickly as a journalist
that if you randomly ride for someone on the road
and start talking to them
they might won't talk to you
they will think you are weird and brush you.
But if you do it inside the restaurant...
... You have a context where to be
so you will sit and they will feed you
and they will be nice to you, and maybe there will be some gossip.
That is the year I know
Los Angeles as Los Angeles.
[instrumental music]
Halo-o-o. - Hello, there baby
How are you? - Good.
- You see what I wrote right?
I answer someone's tweet.
I said, you know, "Yeah, he will do it do a Kuala Lumpur restaurant"
But what, there are, like, one of them
[laughs]
- Yeah, and - and then other people's words
"Oh, he will run out of restaurants in Koreatown."
I - I refrain from saying, there are 900 restaurants in Koreatown
That won't happen in your life, buddy
Looks like I will pass it Korean food fixation.
- Welcome back to "Good Food" That's when we checked in with our population monster
where to eat this weekend in Los Angeles.
So where do we go?
- Will be a restaurant called Soban.
- And what's special?
- They specifically are Galbi Jim They are famous -
- I remember the first time I went to Jonathan Gold
approved restaurants from "LA Weekly"
and, you know, you drive to the mini mall
and you, like, "Really?"
You know, "really? I won't be taken care of?"
I - I won't be robbed walk to this place?
And you enter and that, like, "Oh, yes, that person
is just people.
- This is not El Bulli from the sandwich shop
but he, like, uses his toy
in making those who make very enjoyable.
- He is much more than a food writer.
Jonathan is a cultural commentator
who use food and restaurants as a way
create this little comment about modern life
[instrumental music]
I've eaten lately in Chego, a new restaurant
from Kogi Auteur Roy Choi, truck-based architect
restaurant phenomenon, and the only chef I know
whose food is capable interesting
several hundred people to Eagle Rock parking lot at midnight.
Chego specializes in rice bowls
wavy, baroque construction the splice
all flavors of the city become big splooshes
combinatorial DNA.
Pickled watermelon pepper, stir-fry ong choi
the spoiled cheese and a spurt the pork belly plate
it's already burned as full of love with Korean chili paste
as '64 Impala show car has been rubbed with varnish.
- David!
- Kogi's taco is a new paradigm a restaurant
an art that is directed to take on Korean street food
Previous Unimaginable in California and Seoul.
Cheap, amazingly delicious
and without mistake from Los Angeles.
Foods that make you feel are connected to the beat
from this city just by eating it
- We are working on some new foods now This, um, this is summer this is in Los Angeles
so we're working on tomatoes, watermelon, goat cheese
Basil basil, soybeans, chili, ereh lemongrass.
In all my properties, the only litmus test is
When we eat it, can I throw it This goes down and says, "Fuck."
If we say that, then, then, uh
then the plate makes it to the menu
Small kitchens keep us healthy together, keeps us focused.
There is no place to move
so you have to be really creative and move here, boom.
It's all about muscle memory, boom, boom, boom.
It's fun, it makes for lots of jokes too
because we meet donkeys from each other all the time.
Especially here.
This is the danger zone here.
[laughter]
You know, strange things about me - my first interaction
with Jonathan is, uh, he helped me find out
what we are trying to do
Type like, "Oh, This is what Kogi does."
We are like, like, this Justice League
from, like, weird type, super curved hero
who come with to feed the city, you know
When he wrote about me, he understood...
... and able to articulate small
secret, you know...
You know, tangled nets I'm in
that I tried to put out to the plate
He, like, understands that.
I never explained it to him.
He gets exactly where it comes from
Like, we tried to create ..
... how Asian children grow up and eat in their homes
um, and what they are the refrigerator looks like
but also how to eat stoners.
In the first review, he was able to capture the moment
you know, from - what is happening
Anthony!
- I like like Italian beef.
They have Italian beef sandwich soaked
Alice always says that it is soaked
because it is ugly meat that they have to marinate.
- modern food writing begins with Calvin Trillin.
He said, that, You know, everyone respects
this French restaurant no one wants to eat in
and you know, and that is, everyday food
it's very important, and I think that, you know
It's like a battle call for Jonathan and Robert
and then for many people who have followed afterwards.
- Okay, what are we going to do here, Jonathan?
You are the person, you Expert, you are a food person.
- Maybe I am a sophomore in college
and me, I sit at home.
Among the books in this study are "American Fried"
You know, Calvin Trillin's first book
And I read it, and indeed was truly fascinated by it.
I read "American Fried" and "Alice, Come Eat" Many times.
Yes, I - I imitate him really blindly when I start
Trillin is writing about eating
he is writing eating culture
and it's clear the way to go
- You know, I always say that if I'm in a strange city
and I don't know where to eat, I went to the motel officer
take him with a tie and pull him to the table
just to attract his attention
and I said, "Not where did you take it your parents
" for them 25th birthday
"where you went to night you arrived home
after 13 months in Korea."
And second place is very good
- And I think you - your idea
It's almost become the norm now
that if you will be newspaper critic or writer
in a big city, you are better
You know, you know between 6 good ribs stand
which ones are up and which are down.
- Why? That's not right.
[instrumental music]
- This - this, uh, King Taco is loved.
This is not necessarily my favorite but it's very good taco, you know, pastor al is pretty good
and one of the big things about that is they are actually
have a truck parked outside the restaurant
sort of this canopy, place of honor
and if you come weekend night, there will be
one hour waiting for a truck, and you can walk over
to the table in the restaurant itself
I've brought tacos in trucks and in restaurants
and that's right, actually want the one from the truck
But, I always wonder why taco
really respect the truck.
My theory is that tacos eat are... almost verbs.
Taco must be a verb, right...
The - the, the tortilla, the tortilla is hot, the - the, the meat is hot
they combine, The sauce is sliced on it
and then you almost eat it in one continuous motion
from the way it comes from call to the man to the counter.
I know it's too romantic.
[chat is not clear on TV]
[chuckles]
Yes.
Yes, that's a good place.
And talking about that, um...
... if, if we are looking for someone to picnic
if we do sandwich things ..
I mean, there are some interesting people doing sandwiches now, But, uh, Fred Eric
have this new place attached to the Tiara
called Delish.
I am definitely a big procrastinator I guess when I have to have attention span for something
I - I have a attention span for something, but...
... this - it's difficult, It's hard to explain.
So for some reason you want that right?
- Yeah, very good. I think it's perfect.
- I mean, o - otherwise I will send the phone.
[laughs]
A - as I want
Stay like new...
Maybe if the internet goes
but even before the internet, I mean, I will always find
You know, 12 books and 17 magazines
I have to read before I can complete an article
Now, I have the attention span of a mosquito.
- Become the editor of Jonathan
It's like being someone, Like a teen stalker for me.
I know he won't do it rotate the part
even if he agrees to do it
and then I realize that what he will take
will, you know, border the psychotic level
of e-mail and telephone and text abuse.
[cellphone]
- Hm, I will call when I return.
You know, actually I go for someone special in the author block
I mean, that's the problem, and he just raised his hands up
and I usually block writers, I'm a person who can't write.
There is something that makes them unable to write
but you issue 150,000 words years. Obviously you are writing.
That, I don't, I don't deny it what you experience
is something, but I have don't know what it is
I mean, I can sit down and I can say that "Oh, you need to do it this is the first week piece"
but I end up like, you know, torturing a paragraph for
and then someone calls and starts shouting at me
and the remaining parts will be done in one and a half hours.
- So... alright
What else we need to talk about is what you think
You might do from the review for the next two weeks.
- I think next week will, um
this is new Szechuan restaurant in...
... Surprise, Alhambra.
- Mm-hmm.
- That, um, is called Taste Chengdu.
Like, there is, um, There are dishes on the menu
is called quite intriguing, uh...
little sister spicy rabbit
- Yeah, good
- I don't think they really cook -
- Rabbit?
- Oh, that's a rabbit, but I don't think
it's like, the little sister's rabbit.
I think it's in style ..
... the way sister will succeed
unless it's actually -
- I'm kind of like him a few days younger
smarter brother
um, and I am the first born, and I am responsible
and I have to make the train run on time
and he is funny, smart, who is talented, and I, uh
There might be some love buried there deep inside
but um, uh...
... this, sometimes the role of is difficult to play.
So, how difficult it is, okay
Will it happen for photos there?
Will there be language barriers?
There will be language barriers
- We need to be careful this afternoon
- Alright, I'll do that - Okay, um -
- You come with livestock
prod I will come with a copy.
- awesome
- taste Chengdu
Everyone is happy with that.
Not because we don't have it yet Chengdu food style here before but freshness, which, vividness of taste
the fact that everything isn't just whipped
with a sea of chili
make that kind of place a very interesting place
One thing I tried never, never will do it
is to pretend skills that I don't have
I like to come there the way
which I consider most of me readers will come there ..
... that I don't have to, no more than they do
and I find out Chengdu is the biggest city
and the capital city from Sichuan right
Um, it's inland, so there probably won't
lots of seafood...
... even though this is all images, like
You know, abalone crabs.
I rarely record inside a restaurant.
I am more involved in, sort of, observing music from food.
I mean, you can record it When you have sex too
but you will, sort of, lose something
and I go to the restaurant usually 4 or 5 times
before I examine it.
In the case of a place where the cooking is is familiar to me
I can go a lot, lots more often than that
I think my record is 17.
[sighs]
Eh, let's go ... fish with green chili
They - they don't have chicken dishes that you like
but they have, uh -
- It's okay. I mean, I'm not -
- And dumplings with - - Good.
- I have thought that you would like
boiled fish water.
Lots, uh, Sichuan pepper...
[instrumental music]
- How are you doing today? Nice to meet you again.
- Nice to meet you too Thank you.
I mean the meaning of food discovery something that you have never before been happy about.
But what's better? I think
You can pass it excitement
You pass it phase is crazy
for the next pair of food and maybe also
If you are truly lucky, you arrive at that place understanding.
I mean, I won't pretend to know anything
about Burma from having Two dozen Burmese foods, right?
But there are, uh, of course a point where I think
I know something about Burma to have that
and this, like, seeing movies or the like
like seeing a documentary
This gives you the illusion of understanding things
and maybe you have a difference context to enter items
and sometimes that, That's all you can ask for
and sometimes that's enough.
There is no shortage of bean sprouts.
- The book we have to write
will be a kind of popular, populist thing
in all of these communities and who does what
and all the things I always want to know the answer
Between us, the number of hours spent
not writing the book...
... it will, it will take a lifetime
not to write the book.
- Yes, of course. - Good.
- You might find it this Chengdu-style cuisine
lighter, cleaner, and less possible to wake you up
in the middle of the night with chili oil induced nightmares
The food is still quite spicy, seasoned with a broad array
from fresh, dry, pickled and ground chili.
Almost electricity costs from pepper
bring out flavor from filets and chili.
The taste melts around your lips and tongue
with a strange spirit a sign of Las Vegas blinking
where pepper sauce with prince
obliterates everything in the way
like mysterious fun blows in the mouth
[key clacking]
- That little secret that people don't understand
Jonathan's writing is the way he uses the second person
He will start a review something like
um, you might have found in the past
that deer penis is not really worth the effort
that, that amount is prone and fat and bone
only for high proportion with the number of fibrous meat
You can do it,
but that's because you never have a penis deer
in this Vietnamese restaurant which specializes in it.
In the first paragraph, he forms a bond with the reader.
You know, you and I are people who eat deer penis and you also know readers
although 99.9% of readers
never ordered or eaten deer penis
He takes you to his desk that way
I've never seen anything else the restaurant writer did it
[instrumental music]
- Need a lot of writing and great stories
to increase food criticism for what Jonathan
does and Jonathan are the first Pulitzer Prize winners for food criticism
- The fact that someone can write about food in such a way
to get attention people not in the world of food
But in the world of journalism, in the world of cultural criticism
For me it's very important.
- I think of the fact he got Pulitzer for food criticism
sort of put a stamp on food as, um, subject
feasible, serious investigation.
- Thank you, - are you interested in wine
- Coffee is fine Thank you. - Right Sounds good.
- Have you ever done any diet?
Have you ever made anything sort of dietary restrictions?
- Hm, no
[both laugh]
- I mean, you've read all these things, like
cooking actually what makes us human
- Right I have to explain it to my 4 year old. Like, what's difficult...
It feels like, he's like, "We're animals."
I, like, "Yes, we are animals." He was like
"So what makes us people?"
And I like, "Okay, we cook."
And he seemed satisfied with that.
That's the difference between me and monkey
because I will puree bananas for you
and he will be fair throw at you
So what, what's the next thing
for "Lucky Peach" will be?
Or what idea can I steal from you?
then put in "Lucky Peach?"
I took hagfish
and you threaten to take me to the hagfish restaurant
- I don't threaten you, do you go to hagfish restaurant?
- I have never been to a hagfish restaurant [chuckles]
I don't think so you're making love to me
but your description from hagfish...
- Well, the first thing hagfish is not
very tasty.
It's like eels, is only much worse
Very? Like muddier? Blander?
- This is blah, it's blander
and the gelatin filet
but sort of everything about hagfish
annoying right?
The fact that this is it strange hybrid
from vertebrates and invertebrates
it's really sort of an early species and...
This has a skull, but it's true don't have other bones
- And then the slime. - And the slime.
and the bucket will change for solid slime in seconds.
- Jonathan doesn't write about food because it's weird
like that it doesn't, I don't think it's just a single motivator although he, like, is unique in finding
terrible things to eat
Um, he wrote about it because people eat it
and that's the part their culture and their world
and if you learn about it, then you are connected to them.
- Now we go down Westwood Boulevard
and heading for, what for years
Junior's Deli, which is a deli
my family grew up.
Because, uh, reformed Jewish families in Los Angeles
sometimes like Your deli tells more
of who you are and what is your status
and how you grow up than the show you are headed for.
If your family goes to Nate'n Al's
You are, You are rather fancy.
If your family goes, uh...
... Table Labels, You may
quite close to the working class, but if your family goes
for Junior, you, you OK
You've been here before
- no, I never
- Very similar a social scene in Tehran
it reproduces itself, like 30 years later.
- that's cool
- Very funny everyone thinks
We have this kind of gourmet care, right?
Just remembering that We ate when we were little.
- What do you mean?
Iceberg, salad...
Um, orange jello, French fries
cream wafer sticks, and Dr. Pepper.
It's like perfect food. What are you talking about?
- If you explain Like that, it looks like
one of the last special foods the request of the prisoner...
[laughs]
... before they go to an electric chair
- We only have that much.
- We do have that a lot.
- So have you eaten every species that is threatened lately?
- Yes, I have an orthopedic souffle.
That, that's fun.
My brother and I are very different.
I mean, he is an environment.
He lives to save the ocean.
And I am the person who bought the truck
that is the most polluting vehicles
in that year's consumer report.
I'm not proud of that, but Mark definitely showed me
- Dinner at the golden table Always blood sports
because we are all brothers always
muttering each other all the time.
How can you say, "OK, this is amazing sushi place"
and say, "Don't eat blue fins"
when you still get people go to that place?
- Well, I, I'm lower than that.
- Mm, yes and no
You're the one in a Korean whale tour.
I have to be an environment
because Jonathan eats everything I want to save
The question is whether or not, you go straight to the point
o - using regulations mechanisms to own this country
According to the example.
I often think that of my greatest achievements
makes my sister write and an op-ed piece on the bill
that we encourage to ban sale of shark fin products
in the state of California.
Trust me, I want to see, you know
Shark fin soup is banned tomorrow ..
It took 4 months to get it to write the section
but I read the part and my anger melted.
"But as much as that you might love conpoy
" dry flotation bladder, crab eggs, boiled fish cheeks
"and other esotericism Cantonese seafood cuisine
" It's hard to work an appetite
for bitter taste from extinction. "
I have people who work on the bill says that it is one
to get the bill passed, and so on how well he writes
really makes a big difference.
[music instrumental]
- My father always wants to become a writer
and he is very talented.
- My father is probably the most overeducated probation officer in the history of from Los Angeles County.
He really wants to be an Professor of English
He is just his dissertation in American Literature
but the LA County trial period pays more
rather than being an English professor.
So, our household is all about culture
and we are only affected, You know, there is a book we want.
It doesn't matter what we are the financial situation is
the book will appear
- always there play music
Usually my father's madness
well Mahler or Italian opera.
And there is an idea that the culture of the nation
Sort of like flowing through our living room.
- What are you doing?
- Oh, alright, yeah
Okay, so here, here it is.
- Oh, I remember this
This is in you painting class
- Yeah. - dark stuff
Isabel is always interested, even when very young, 4 or 5
He used to paint and draw pictures like unrelenting
I mean, it must be difficult live with a writer, right?
I mean, people are there
which basically evaluates or you think the judge
every single sentence you say
Maybe that's why he entered the cartoon
"Cool okapis!"
Looks like I have, like, lips are split
like a dog, that's good
[instrumental music]
I hope my children are adults with culture on the road
that I grew up with culture.
I mean, I do this where do we go to the museum
and everyone things about that
And ideas for to spend a lot of time
with your child and have the dialog about that
is - just beautiful
It's all like congressman
or what, right?
- Yeah, yeah
- None of them are so trigger about this, right?
- I mean, I think so the first caricature.
And he is very cruel in his things
But he also like very accurate
and you only describe something as, as the author
You can't list every detail.
You have to choose only a few details
which lets readers see and then they will build
that person in their imagination
So, like this person, You know, he's round
and he squats and he is froggy
and, you know, like there is no person in the world with nose that's great
[instrumental music]
- In just a few months, La Tia has established itself
as one of the most serious Mexican restaurants
in Los Angeles in complex and deft.
I always end up with quails on traditional black moles
It's so dark it feels to suck the light out
from the surrounding airspace.
Spicy as novella and bitter like tears.
Moles that are aftertaste can continue for hours
La Tia Negro mole looks so glossy and rich
that I am always tempted to test its consistency
by piercing the index finger into it and the stains produced
keep long as a decorated digit
Iraqi patriotic voters.
Last time I was inspired with glossy black
That is part of Charles Ray's work The famous sculpture ink box
and it's immortalized in the main art museum.
[radio buzzing]
[chat is not clear on the radio]
[radio buzzing]
[chat is not clear on the radio]
[radio buzzing]
[chat is not clear on the radio]
[radio buzzing]
- Hey, this is Garth Trinidad from KCRW and I'm here
with Jonathan Gold, food critic and author
who actually started his business wrote about music
- Yes, I'm the classic music critic at "LA Weekly" before I do anything else
and then have to write about Los Angeles hip hop.
- So we will talk about some of his favorite songs
as part of KCRW Guest projects DJ
♪ Navigate my tears ♪
Can we talk about the song? which you choose
"Flow My Tears" is very fast.
- Of course, uh, I'm a classic geek music grows up
I am locked in, uh, the rest room with my cello
for most of my teenagers.
Uh, I play, you know viola da gamba
That's how to get the chicks I told you
John Dowland might be a composer hit
from the Elizabeth era, a little afterwards.
"My Flow Tears" approximately
"Stairs to Heaven" like 1620
♪ Where is the night of the black bird ♪
♪ Her regrets are sad ♪♪
- My father wants a trio string with three brothers
and I'm the worst violinist who ever existed
Josh might be the worst viola player ever and Jonathan that person who has some talent
and really stuck with it.
He knows every opera and every piece of classical music.
They used to hold contests on radio
that he will achieve and dominate.
- He doesn't grow up with rock and roll
like most of us do just because of his parents
mostly listening to for classical music
and because he is so obsessed with with cello, that...
Cello is a kind of whole life.
So he experiences like there is a sort of radical shift
when he hears, you know, punk rock for the first time
- You carry, okay, tracks from Germs, "Formation?"
- "Formation" is the first LA punk single
ever recorded in Los Angeles.
♪ Knocking them down hold it ♪
♪ Tell them that I am your gun ♪
♪ Drag my trigger I'm bigger than... ♪♪
Punk rock is what kind of thing pulls me out of my shell
and someone dragged me to whiskey
to see the show, you know, X and The Screamers.
I'm just...
"Can you do this?"
"Maybe to do this?"
And it's the same as changing as anything I've ever done
[blurred]
♪ Realize all your lies ♪
♪ Hide in the back your suit and base ♪
♪ The life you live your mouth to feed ♪
♪ Is that really based on this? ♪
♪ What you do will take you through ♪
- I think punk rock is one thing
it's very helpful form his world view
and his ideas as a critic.
The idea of experiencing and interference, and pushing boundaries.
When Jonathan entered and first was a critic
the fact that "LA Times" is reviewing, you know
Place burrito, disturbed.
[instrumental music]
[run away]
- That's delicious, I love mezcal
- Mezcal is empty stomach
Welcome to LA.
[speaking in Spanish]
- My father is the maker of mezcal in Oaxaca
and things that happened really bad to my father in '93
and that's when, um, peso devalues
so there is an economical fall in Mexico
so he decided to move here.
So he just started rather exploring LA
and this area where we are now
Koreatown, there are many Latinos and many people
from Oaxaca who live in the area.
So my father opened a little food stood up
and it became very popular among people from Oaxaca
because they only know that's where you go
to get Oaxacan food.
So he's like, you know, um -
"Come on open the restaurant."
That little hole is in the wall, maybe like 6 tables and we open like a small alley
it's like totally illegal
So one day my father entered and like
"Where's all this? White people come from?"
Because there are indeed these white people
Someone like, "It's not like know you are at 'LA Times?' "
Though, Jonathan Gold reviews restaurants
before Spanish media speak
And now the restaurant runs by my sister, my brother
and myself, and we sit 300 people here
- This is very delicious - grasshopper?
- They are very tasty
I think there are 2 things, I mean one, that's an insect
and two, all animals, are still
very difficult for Americans I mean, if we want survive as a species
we will eat insects
- We. - I mean, unless we are idiots.
- For us, Oaxacan community
we owe him a lot because in Oaxaca
right people look down
because we come from the native background
and to have someone put it out there and say
come and feel this Oaxacan food.
I think that even helped me as a person
to embrace my culture because people care
about food and caring people, and people really like
"Oh, your food is like, your food is cool"
and I like, "Yeah, my food is cool."
[instrumental music]
- Hello
- He's a funny person
Don dog.
- How are you doing, Duane? - what's up, big man
- old with you
- Hot dogs.
- So, you've returned to the cart.
- I returned to the cart, we did it again.
We do this fairly to tell people
hey, what happened, we will be open again
It's cool because I got lots of my old customers
who is a hot dog cart customer, withdraw to say
"I can just swear, I see your little bean head
" standing there, so I have to go back
here and see What is your hot dog like? "
- Earler's Wieners is opening up!
- 28 years, since what '86?
- '86. - '86
- Crenshaw is friendly, dear - Lotta dog
= = - There is no neat way to eat one of them
I always feel a little uncomfortable about claiming hoods.
I grew up in South LA, but I'm clear
My family moved before...
= =... when I was very young
We have moved there, or my parents moved there
in the late 50's when my father was a teacher
at Audubon Middle School
like this beautiful school.
There, you know...
There are many black children and many white children
and many Japanese children, and it looks like
and he wants to be a part of that, so he moves to the community.
Some of my earliest memories Riots in 1965.
You know, sitting on the top of our hill
and, and see fire burn under
see tanks go with Crenshaw Boulevard
and after that environment changes.
[instrumental music]
So you bring Funkadelic with "Classic Maggot Brain".
I am 13 or 14 years old when I try to buy
uh, you know, beer with fake ID
Go home and put it on and guitar solo
Eddie Hazel, it's just amazing
It continues to flow.
It has some sort of, uh, grandeur
you expect from someone Like, you know, Wagner
which continues forever.
Almost all blues guitarists
So they do wa wa wa, But Eddie Hazel doesn't.
He always has something new to say, and song
[instrumental music]
- Please join me in welcoming Jonathan Gold.
- Thank you.
Hi.
I, in some ways I think Come to you as a messenger
from the world of failure
a rare citizen from a vast country
where things don't change exactly as you planned
I'm here to say it it's okay
Still, when I wake up in the morning
I don't feel like a semi-successful writer
Los Angeles history writer
I feel like a cellist who failed
more or less my UCLA experience
But we are all, especially from us in art
experience a failure, and this is the experience
from failure which makes us strong
it helps make us who we are
What is my UCLA? Knowledge gained helps me
when I wrote about hip hop in the 1980s?
Not directly, but indeed the way is listening to it gives me a way
to understand music in important ways
What is my experience in writing about opera and new music
has something to do by writing food?
Yes, apparently, at a very basic level
criticism is criticism.
An aria is in several ways
equivalent to well-cooked potatoes
and second understanding form and ability
to describe abstract sensations
which I learned to do as a graduate
in music and art courses here, turns out to be exactly
What do I need to know? [hip hop music]
- I think humans are great pain
is, uh, a previous insult for investigation
Jonathan took the idea...
This is a very comfortable idea for many Americans and he only, he just blows it fuck up
[music continues]
- Jonathan Gold is my guest DJ
Alright, man, so you bring some LA gangsta rap.
Some gangsta rap Los Angeles
and you bring "G Thang" From, uh, Dr. Dre, Snoop Dogg.
Now, listen, rumors You are in the studio
a lot of time with them when they are actually
record "Doggystyle" and things like that.
- Yeah, yes, that's how it is.
- This is when you really write
during that time
- Right, LA hip hop is great, but no one has ever heard of it.
Everyone just heard it New York goods
and Dre is the person who knows
how to slow it down, make it gangsta.
Chronic, in my opinion is a total breakthrough album
It crosses to a bouncing car to hang out
and baking in the garden.
That is less about the bang and that's more about, this is the environment
and you are invited to party
and there is something beautiful about that.
♪ It's like this and like that and like this and uh ♪
♪ Dre creep into the mic like a ghost ♪
♪ All right I peek and I creepin 'and I creep-in' ♪
♪ But I almost got caught Because my pager keeps on beepin '♪
♪ Now it's time for me to make my impression feel ♪
♪ So sit relaxed and strap on the seat belt ♪
- You know, after the Los Angeles riots
there are many hands squeeze
about what is wrong in this city
and there is a movement to like to know
who is your neighbor
but long before the riots and after Jonathan Gold
introduce us to people and to the environment.
- There is a certain level Utopian thinking in his work.
There is a certain level dedication
to ask questions how we live
He talks about miscegenation
between races basically appears on the table
From the way he saw Los Angeles
on one side Los Angeles comes together.
♪ It's like this and like that and like this and uh ♪
♪ It's like that and like this and like that and uh ♪
♪ It's like this and we don't don't love you ♪
♪ Just be cold until the next episode ♪♪
[instrumental music]
- There are many different things how to tell stories
about Los Angeles, and of course, uh, telling stories
through food is one way Jonathan Gold does that.
Um, and the part he will read
represents another way talks about Los Angeles
at which time, um, city cloth
like it looks like it won't continue.
So, Jonathan.
- This is an older essay written, uh, week
after, um, Riots in 1992
and that...
Well, I will, I will, I will read and you can, you can hear it.
Um, I can't tell you how much I love Los Angeles.
"It's 8 o'clock and the light is starting to fade
" As I sit on the floor of my apartment
"staring at the place where Rain doesn't drip so much
" like coming out of the jam door.
"Over the past ten years
" I have stayed in a creaking apartment
"Maybe sweet in his time
"who has home for dog trainers
" violinist and a series of authors
"in a smart column building in an aging environment
" no one hasn't bothered his name.
"Under the baby crying in Spanish
" in the distance ghetto boys
"Get up from the truck that passes.
" For the fifth time, about one hour
"I think about other parts of the city
" Which with a croissant shop in the corner of the street
"and AC shopping centers
" and neighbors who look like me.
"Before the April fire, There were 14 different types
"from ethnic restaurants within 5 minutes walk.
" Now, there are only 10.
"For a while, everything is in the environment
" It seems like only a few more are badly addressed.
"Saturday night weapons a little harder
" Sirens everywhere and helicopters
"a little closer to home.
" If you spend time in my neighborhood
"You will learn rhythm that place
" Morning time Mexican food truck
"appears around the corner.
" It's time for Filipinos teenagers
"snack of heart bread and Coca-Cola in the pancit shop.
" Peace time in the afternoon
"when on the road flows gracefully. " Guatemalan women walk home from Ralph's
"with a shopping bag
" balanced with experts on their heads
"Construction of Salvador crowd of workers
" to local Korea noodle shop
"for steamed cakes
" In this environment, most of us just passed.
"Transients on our way to more permanent homes
" in Long Beach or Huntington Park.
"We are all citizens in the world.
" We are all foreigners together
"But for my Korean landlord, this environment is home
"I have awakened before dawn
" by the rhythmic thump of from their pounding garlic
"to pasta on the back porch.
" I have come out the door with a handful of wet laundry
"just to find all clothes
" is taken by drying the fish.
"I also go home from work to rediscover the stretched stairs
" with cabbage leaves, heal under the hot sun
"Even when their child gets shot
" half a mile south of here
"Someone was asked from their place of taste
"Landlords remain for themselves and so do I
I often hope they do it invite me to dinner
Thank you.
[clap]
[instrumental music]
[music continues]
[jazz music]
- OK, man, you take some Louis Armstrong.
We have to talk about Louis.
Uh, "Tight Like This," why? You choose this song?
- I think it's the best Driving music is there.
♪ Oh it's tight like this ♪
♪ No, it's not tight like that good ♪
♪ I say it's tight like this ♪
♪ Let it be tight like that ♪
♪ Oh, this is very strict like that Louis ♪
♪ Oh it's tight like this ♪
♪ Now close like that ♪♪ Entered by: www.subtitlecinema.com