1 00: 00: 32,240 --> 00: 00: 34,242 I will do my best. 2 00: 00: 34,325 --> 00: 00: 36,536 We'll see where things end. 3 00: 00: 36,619 --> 00: 00: 37,620 Ready, go. 4 00: 00: 39,873 --> 00: 00: 42,083 I have finished. You do not go up. - Let me try again. 5 00: 00: 42,167 --> 00: 00: 44,878 They said they wanted a challenge. And here it is. 6 00: 00: 44,961 --> 00: 00: 47,756 I think it will be a challenge for everyone today 7 00: 00: 47,839 --> 00: 00: 49,340 To keep their heads above the surface of the water. 8 00: 00: 59,684 --> 00: 01: 03,021 I have to show the things I am grateful for today. 9 00: 01: 03,730 --> 00: 01: 06,775 My wife, my life. 10 00: 01: 07,817 --> 00: 01: 10,487 Ability to get out here and help others. 11 00: 01: 12,864 --> 00: 01: 15,617 On my way to pick up my first wave. 12 00: 01: 15,700 --> 00: 01: 16,701 "Support the warriors (OperationServ) 13 00: 01: 16,785 --> 00: 01: 20,663 This is the day that sent life In "Bobby" you are talking to now. 14 00: 01: 21,247 --> 00: 01: 26,044 "Native NETFLIX Documentaries" 15 00: 01: 34,803 --> 00: 01: 39,140 "Morro Bay, California" 16 00: 01: 40,308 --> 00: 01: 43,728 Stay away from your thoughts. It's the worst place. 17 00: 01: 43,812 --> 00: 01: 47,732 - I know it is. I said it. - So, keep away from them. 18 00: 01: 48,650 --> 00: 01: 50,026 Yup. 19 00: 01: 54,948 --> 00: 01: 59,119 Head injuries and seizures They were there in "Iraq". 20 00: 01: 59,202 --> 00: 02: 02,038 Because at some point, I had a gun with me, I looked down ... 21 00: 02: 02,122 --> 00: 02: 03,289 "(Bobby Lin) Former Navy soldier " 22 00: 02: 03,373 --> 00: 02: 06,960 I could not remember who I was with, Where you were, and what you were doing. 23 00: 02: 07,043 --> 00: 02: 08,586 So I knew then that I was in shock. 24 00: 02: 09,838 --> 00: 02: 12,590 These traumatic brain injuries, 25 00: 02: 12,674 --> 00: 02: 17,178 You have to trust the inner instinct. This is very important. 26 00: 02: 17,262 --> 00: 02: 20,557 If they have seizures there, It is not good. 27 00: 02: 23,143 --> 00: 02: 26,187 He was trained not to ask for help. 28 00: 02: 26,729 --> 00: 02: 29,232 Encourage and you can handle this. 29 00: 02: 31,401 --> 00: 02: 33,945 I knew he was destined to join the military. 30 00: 02: 34,696 --> 00: 02: 36,739 I was supposed to be a warrior. 31 00: 02: 37,448 --> 00: 02: 41,786 Told me the maritime recruiters They will make me a very powerful fighting machine. 32 00: 02: 42,412 --> 00: 02: 45,665 They said I was mentally unstable. I will become an ideal naval soldier. 33 00: 02: 48,042 --> 00: 02: 50,128 Many would say to me, 34 00: 02: 50,211 --> 00: 02: 54,591 "War is tough, you're just a number." I did not care. 35 00: 02: 54,674 --> 00: 02: 59,095 Everyone has a goal in life, My goal was to be a soldier in the Navy. 36 00: 03: 02,140 --> 00: 03: 05,143 The military trained you to be without feelings. 37 00: 03: 05,226 --> 00: 03: 07,896 You have to stop your feelings to do your job. 38 00: 03: 07,979 --> 00: 03: 09,188 "Dr. (John Strazenikas) Psychologist" 39 00: 03: 09,272 --> 00: 03: 11,065 You are there to kill. 40 00: 03: 12,233 --> 00: 03: 16,696 My combat experience in 1967 and 1968, 41 00: 03: 16,779 --> 00: 03: 19,866 After 40 years, still affect For all I do in life. 42 00: 03: 19,949 --> 00: 03: 21,159 "(Mike Shorely) Former soldier " 43 00: 03: 21,242 --> 00: 03: 23,745 We respond to danger ... 44 00: 03: 23,828 --> 00: 03: 25,788 "(Wallace Jay Nichols) Author (Blue Mind) " 45 00: 03: 25,872 --> 00: 03: 28,291 With a flood of chemicals, 46 00: 03: 28,374 --> 00: 03: 31,586 Which brings us out of the problem Or can save our lives. 47 00: 03: 33,379 --> 00: 03: 37,592 Then, All these chemicals remain in your blood. 48 00: 03: 38,259 --> 00: 03: 43,556 Even years later, The impact of this shock can remain on you. 49 00: 03: 43,640 --> 00: 03: 46,851 Whenever these tests are severe and frequent, 50 00: 03: 46,935 --> 00: 03: 49,896 The effect remains longer. 51 00: 03: 50,730 --> 00: 03: 52,482 In the United States, the current rate 52 00: 03: 52,565 --> 00: 03: 53,983 It is 22 combatants who commit suicide every 24 hours. 53 00: 03: 54,067 --> 00: 03: 55,401 "Dr. (Russell Crawford) Warrior air force, psychologist " 54 00: 03: 55,485 --> 00: 03: 56,945 These are the registrants. 55 00: 04: 05,286 --> 00: 04: 09,123 We were dating for just a few months Then he asked me to marry. 56 00: 04: 09,207 --> 00: 04: 10,416 "(Liz Lin) Wife (Bobby) " 57 00: 04: 10,500 --> 00: 04: 13,586 at this point, Already realized brain injuries due to shocks 58 00: 04: 13,670 --> 00: 04: 15,755 And the effects of seizures. 59 00: 04: 16,506 --> 00: 04: 18,424 How many of these are supposed to be taken again? 60 00: 04: 18,508 --> 00: 04: 21,928 I think it has been several months Before I notice a change of mood. 61 00: 04: 22,011 --> 00: 04: 27,058 He quickly got angry easily because of things You should not upset him. 62 00: 04: 27,141 --> 00: 04: 32,480 Fury on the road, It makes me afraid of my life as a comrade. 63 00: 04: 33,356 --> 00: 04: 38,820 Things of this kind made me realize, "Well, suffering from PTSD." 64 00: 04: 41,281 --> 00: 04: 45,034 When we argued I and Liz, Sometimes I break a seat, 65 00: 04: 45,118 --> 00: 04: 47,954 I punched the wall to pierce it, screaming at her. 66 00: 04: 48,037 --> 00: 04: 52,000 And in many times I did not remember I did it. 67 00: 04: 52,083 --> 00: 04: 54,544 Sometimes I remember. I did not know why this was happening. 68 00: 04: 54,627 --> 00: 04: 57,255 It seems like I did not completely control myself. 69 00: 05: 01,217 --> 00: 05: 04,262 He was open to injury. 70 00: 05: 04,345 --> 00: 05: 07,932 But we did not know the full extent of this. 71 00: 05: 09,475 --> 00: 05: 13,313 I began to see things by restoring scenes. 72 00: 05: 13,396 --> 00: 05: 15,523 I drank a lot of alcohol in order to sleep. 73 00: 05: 15,606 --> 00: 05: 21,571 The "Jack" bottle is 1.75 liter complete One night, alone. 74 00: 05: 21,654 --> 00: 05: 25,867 Sometimes I drink these with 30 beer bottles. This is so that I can only sleep. 75 00: 05: 27,744 --> 00: 05: 30,913 I was taking all the medicines that were in the market. 76 00: 05: 31,914 --> 00: 05: 36,461 I mean, 3 months of changing prescriptions 77 00: 05: 36,544 --> 00: 05: 38,004 And finish them. 78 00: 05: 38,880 --> 00: 05: 42,633 This is a medicine for seizures. Tablets for stomach. Games 00: 05: 42,717 --> 00: 05: 45,261 This is hydroxycin. It is supposed to address anxiety 80 00: 05: 45,344 --> 00: 05: 46,763 Or let me out. 81 00: 05: 46,846 --> 00: 05: 50,433 I'm supposed to take this medicine For migraines, 82 00: 05: 50,516 --> 00: 05: 54,687 But then I had to take this medicine With this medication to neutralize it. 83 00: 05: 55,730 --> 00: 05: 57,940 I do not even remember what this drug does. 84 00: 05: 58,524 --> 00: 06: 00,902 This is Celdenafil. 85 00: 06: 00,985 --> 00: 06: 03,362 If you do not know what it is, it is "Viagra". 86 00: 06: 03,446 --> 00: 06: 05,823 They gave me lots of medicines, which ... 87 00: 06: 07,283 --> 00: 06: 10,161 Sometimes I need more help. 88 00: 06: 10,870 --> 00: 06: 11,913 So... 89 00: 06: 13,748 --> 00: 06: 16,584 I was expected to go home Everything is normal. 90 00: 06: 17,627 --> 00: 06: 19,796 I did not expect this to happen. 91 00: 06: 23,800 --> 00: 06: 26,761 Close your eyes and see the memories, 92 00: 06: 26,844 --> 00: 06: 29,889 Everyone gives it a shock, racing in your head. 93 00: 06: 29,972 --> 00: 06: 31,808 Begin to think about the exchange of fire, 94 00: 06: 31,891 --> 00: 06: 34,519 The people I killed, the bodies I saw. 95 00: 06: 39,148 --> 00: 06: 41,984 When you kill a child ... 96 00: 06: 42,068 --> 00: 06: 45,446 When you kill a child ... 97 00: 06: 48,032 --> 00: 06: 49,367 sorry. 98 00: 06: 56,999 --> 00: 07: 00,878 The hardest thing was to forgive myself, I think I did not forgive myself somehow. 99 00: 07: 02,588 --> 00: 07: 05,007 I often drew the gun to my head 100 00: 07: 05,091 --> 00: 07: 06,342 I looked at myself in the mirror. 101 00: 07: 09,303 --> 00: 07: 15,101 The plan was to board the waves I go home and make sure everything is arranged, 102 00: 07: 15,184 --> 00: 07: 19,147 Then he brought my pistol and ran away. 103 00: 07: 23,693 --> 00: 07: 29,657 "On the land of the free 104 00: 07: 30,533 --> 00: 07: 36,747 And the home of the brave " 105 00: 07: 38,875 --> 00: 07: 42,295 There is an open port in the Observatory, I can ride the waves. 106 00: 07: 42,378 --> 00: 07: 43,838 I said, "That's it." 107 00: 07: 43,921 --> 00: 07: 47,842 I feel like I have achieved All I want to achieve in life, 108 00: 07: 47,925 --> 00: 07: 49,260 There is nothing wrong with death. 109 00: 07: 50,470 --> 00: 07: 54,974 This started because everything I wanted to do He took a group of warriors to ride the waves. 110 00: 07: 55,057 --> 00: 07: 57,477 "Welcome to the soldiers! You are our heroes! " 111 00: 07: 58,060 --> 00: 08: 00,104 I want to welcome you all to Santa Cruz. 112 00: 08: 00,688 --> 00: 08: 02,815 I have been surfing for 45 years. 113 00: 08: 02,899 --> 00: 08: 04,984 I go on some trips in my life, 114 00: 08: 05,067 --> 00: 08: 08,946 I realized that surfing was the only thing Which kept my life intact. 115 00: 08: 09,030 --> 00: 08: 10,323 "(Van Corraza) Founder of "OperationServ" 116 00: 08: 15,203 --> 00: 08: 19,248 I ride the waves since ... Essentially, from the age of 10 years. 117 00: 08: 19,332 --> 00: 08: 22,043 I have a great evil for good waves. 118 00: 08: 22,126 --> 00: 08: 24,337 So I started to breathe 119 00: 08: 24,420 --> 00: 08: 28,591 I got some appreciation and good reputation Through the great surf. 120 00: 08: 29,467 --> 00: 08: 34,889 I have reached a stage in my life Where addiction dominated. 121 00: 08: 36,057 --> 00: 08: 41,395 After quitting drugs and alcohol, I joined a full-time surfing school. 122 00: 08: 41,479 --> 00: 08: 44,232 Yup! Small jump! 123 00: 08: 44,982 --> 00: 08: 47,193 Since it started Operation Survey, 124 00: 08: 47,276 --> 00: 08: 49,779 My goal is really clear. 125 00: 08: 50,613 --> 00: 08: 54,617 Work with these warriors In transition, this is important to me. 126 00: 09: 03,251 --> 00: 09: 07,547 After 4 months, I was injured by an explosive device. 127 00: 09: 08,631 --> 00: 09: 10,132 "(Martin Pollock) British Army Warrior " 128 00: 09: 10,216 --> 00: 09: 13,386 I remember feeling unable to breathe And the dust out of my mouth, 129 00: 09: 13,469 --> 00: 09: 15,012 But I could not see anything. 130 00: 09: 17,932 --> 00: 09: 20,434 I think my mind might close my eyesight. 131 00: 09: 20,518 --> 00: 09: 23,062 Do you see this as shocking now? 132 00: 09: 34,323 --> 00: 09: 37,201 The shocks live in their bodies. 133 00: 09: 38,035 --> 00: 09: 40,496 To recover, 134 00: 09: 40,580 --> 00: 09: 43,833 The body must be involved in the treatment. 135 00: 09: 48,462 --> 00: 09: 53,009 With PTSD, The chemistry of the brain really changes 136 00: 09: 53,092 --> 00: 09: 56,262 Thinking again and again. 137 00: 09: 57,597 --> 00: 10: 02,226 Surfing helps create new paths. 138 00: 10: 03,686 --> 00: 10: 09,525 It is a huge increase in dopamine. It is a massive natural manifestation. 139 00: 10: 10,276 --> 00: 10: 13,654 Your body is a pharmacy. 140 00: 10: 13,738 --> 00: 10: 18,576 You can create a symmetry Everything is in the pharmacy. 141 00: 10: 18,659 --> 00: 10: 22,788 This is not something strange. It is neuroscience. 142 00: 10: 27,418 --> 00: 10: 30,504 If I saw dreams at night, And made me stay awake all night, 143 00: 10: 30,588 --> 00: 10: 32,256 I did not think about it when I was in the ocean. 144 00: 10: 32,340 --> 00: 10: 35,217 The only thing I wanted to do Is the descent and disposal of the ocean. 145 00: 10: 35,301 --> 00: 10: 37,303 I just wanted to think about it. 146 00: 10: 39,221 --> 00: 10: 45,061 All my senses are devoted to the same activity. 147 00: 10: 45,144 --> 00: 10: 46,562 I am fully integrated. 148 00: 10: 47,688 --> 00: 10: 49,357 You and the waves alone. 149 00: 10: 55,738 --> 00: 10: 58,616 - I picked up my first Mufti here too. Oh really? 150 00: 10: 58,699 --> 00: 10: 59,909 Yup. 151 00: 11: 01,160 --> 00: 11: 02,453 42 years ago. 152 00: 11: 17,718 --> 00: 11: 20,429 Surfing was the most important thing In the list of what I would achieve before death. 153 00: 11: 20,513 --> 00: 11: 24,016 It was the thing I wanted to do Since I was a kid. 154 00: 11: 24,100 --> 00: 11: 28,104 I figured it was like Jump on a skateboard in the ocean, 155 00: 11: 28,187 --> 00: 11: 30,231 Tolerance for everything. 156 00: 11: 30,314 --> 00: 11: 33,067 I can go home, I can only leave. 157 00: 11: 33,150 --> 00: 11: 35,486 Ready? Look at the ocean. Ready, rose. go ahead. 158 00: 11: 35,569 --> 00: 11: 38,155 Leave your right hand falling. Here you are. 159 00: 11: 38,906 --> 00: 11: 41,367 Well, ready? Lift your knee. 160 00: 11: 41,450 --> 00: 11: 43,452 The front foot. Foot background. good. 161 00: 11: 43,536 --> 00: 11: 46,122 Now, go back to the back foot. Here you are. 162 00: 11: 46,205 --> 00: 11: 50,459 He told me, "Do not think, because this is a bad place. 163 00: 11: 50,543 --> 00: 11: 52,044 We have a wonderful wave ... 164 00: 11: 52,128 --> 00: 11: 53,921 "Do not think, Bobby." 165 00: 11: 54,004 --> 00: 11: 56,841 Do not think about this. Think of something positive. 166 00: 11: 56,924 --> 00: 11: 59,093 Think of the ocean, think of surfing, 167 00: 11: 59,176 --> 00: 12: 01,220 Consider picking up the next wave. 168 00: 12: 02,680 --> 00: 12: 06,642 We agreed? good. 169 00: 12: 09,895 --> 00: 12: 12,440 When I picked up that wave, I felt like ... 170 00: 12: 13,023 --> 00: 12: 14,859 I felt that part of me had died. 171 00: 12: 18,904 --> 00: 12: 24,952 "Bobby" who was going to life, Suffers from a lot of pain and guilt, 172 00: 12: 25,035 --> 00: 12: 27,121 The man died there that day. 173 00: 12: 30,958 --> 00: 12: 36,839 I was able to feel the heartbeat of the ocean, Like a living being, something breathes. 174 00: 12: 38,841 --> 00: 12: 42,720 It was not death, destruction and shock 175 00: 12: 43,637 --> 00: 12: 44,889 And hell. 176 00: 12: 46,932 --> 00: 12: 50,603 I closed my eyes to sleep, The only thing I can dream of 177 00: 12: 50,686 --> 00: 12: 52,855 I was picking up the next wave. 178 00: 13: 12,791 --> 00: 13: 15,211 I did not say that the first wave touched me. 179 00: 13: 15,836 --> 00: 13: 20,466 But the ocean is the only place I know Which I can go to for peace. 180 00: 13: 23,052 --> 00: 13: 27,139 Now I devoted the rest of my life To help and serve other warriors. 181 00: 13: 27,223 --> 00: 13: 30,434 "Santa Cruz, California" 182 00: 13: 30,518 --> 00: 13: 33,270 Ladies and gentlemen, welcome In the Veterans Tech Charge program. 183 00: 13: 33,354 --> 00: 13: 34,897 We are in the studio with a former warrior, Bobby Lin. 184 00: 13: 34,980 --> 00: 13: 37,691 - Thank you for coming. - Thank you for inviting us. 185 00: 13: 37,775 --> 00: 13: 41,946 You give us a good vision What did your surfing do. 186 00: 13: 42,029 --> 00: 13: 45,658 Yes, not only saved my life, But he changed my life. So... 187 00: 13: 45,741 --> 00: 13: 49,828 I will not lie, I have a different look About surfing culture 188 00: 13: 49,912 --> 00: 13: 53,207 And what they can do for people in rehabilitation 189 00: 13: 53,290 --> 00: 13: 55,543 - warrior or similar. - Surfing is very enjoyable. 190 00: 13: 55,626 --> 00: 13: 58,087 So you see a penny under your skateboard, 191 00: 13: 58,170 --> 00: 14: 00,381 And yell, "My God." 192 00: 14: 00,464 --> 00: 14: 03,300 So, in the next two days, What is the agenda for Operation Surf? 193 00: 14: 03,384 --> 00: 14: 07,429 - I mean, surfing. - Surfing. 194 00: 14: 07,513 --> 00: 14: 09,640 Yup. - Surfing, yes. 195 00: 14: 14,186 --> 00: 14: 16,522 Let the wave do what you do. 196 00: 14: 16,605 --> 00: 14: 19,275 Just ride it. Like you're at the bottom of a skiing hill, 197 00: 14: 19,358 --> 00: 14: 21,902 You'd say, "I'll let the hill slow down." 198 00: 14: 21,986 --> 00: 14: 25,823 - Who is your guide for windsurfing? Here. Caveman. 199 00: 14: 25,906 --> 00: 14: 28,617 - "Lin". How are you doing, man? how are you? 200 00: 14: 28,701 --> 00: 14: 31,078 OK. Got a new tablet? Yup. 201 00: 14: 32,162 --> 00: 14: 34,915 Essentially, you just want to sink it. 202 00: 14: 34,999 --> 00: 14: 37,751 My job is that I am just a guide For some of these comrades, 203 00: 14: 37,835 --> 00: 14: 41,672 I listen to what they do and feel. 204 00: 14: 41,755 --> 00: 14: 45,009 If it were up to me, it was my mind Will go very quickly, 205 00: 14: 45,092 --> 00: 14: 46,719 Thinking only about all the bad things. 206 00: 14: 46,802 --> 00: 14: 51,056 But instead I say, "Well, what good things are happening now?" 207 00: 14: 51,140 --> 00: 14: 54,810 So, first, I'm not in "Afghanistan". 208 00: 14: 54,894 --> 00: 14: 56,687 Second, I'm in Santa Cruz. 209 00: 14: 57,897 --> 00: 14: 59,899 Third, I'm about to ride the waves. 210 00: 15: 01,150 --> 00: 15: 03,152 Fourthly, I woke up this morning. 211 00: 15: 04,069 --> 00: 15: 06,238 Fifth, I am with good companionship. 212 00: 15: 06,322 --> 00: 15: 08,073 Sixth, the sun is shining. 213 00: 15: 08,157 --> 00: 15: 11,619 Seventh, I will not be shot. Eighth, there will be no bombing. 214 00: 15: 13,037 --> 00: 15: 13,954 how are you? are you excited? 215 00: 15: 14,038 --> 00: 15: 15,331 Yup. Very excited. 216 00: 15: 15,414 --> 00: 15: 19,710 - How do you feel about it? - A little scared, but ... 217 00: 15: 19,793 --> 00: 15: 24,089 I hope I do not eat anything bad, Or hurt myself, or something like that. 218 00: 15: 24,173 --> 00: 15: 25,424 But, no, I'll be fine. 219 00: 15: 27,718 --> 00: 15: 30,804 Take this seat, "how"! 220 00: 15: 30,888 --> 00: 15: 33,223 - Heck, sit here. Yup. OK. 221 00: 15: 33,307 --> 00: 15: 35,768 Sit There. thanks, man. 222 00: 15: 36,852 --> 00: 15: 40,898 "Sean," it was as I was. It was like looking at a mirror. 223 00: 15: 40,981 --> 00: 15: 44,526 Flag campaign, raise flags! 224 00: 15: 47,488 --> 00: 15: 49,323 Everyone assumed that I was a soldier 225 00: 15: 49,406 --> 00: 15: 50,991 And I did all these bad things, 226 00: 15: 51,075 --> 00: 15: 53,494 I'll be fine I will be able to adapt. 227 00: 15: 53,577 --> 00: 15: 56,080 To adapt. 228 00: 15: 56,163 --> 00: 15: 58,415 I was trained to be a murderer of our eyes. 229 00: 15: 58,499 --> 00: 16: 00,584 Can not show any weakness. 230 00: 16: 00,668 --> 00: 16: 02,503 I ended up completely collapsing. 231 00: 16: 02,586 --> 00: 16: 09,468 I grabbed my pistol and put it in my mouth and I mumbled it. 232 00: 16: 09,551 --> 00: 16: 12,304 I was not far away. 233 00: 16: 12,388 --> 00: 16: 15,432 I was there only, my finger on the trigger. 234 00: 16: 15,516 --> 00: 16: 18,268 I did not try to commit suicide before, but I tried. 235 00: 16: 20,729 --> 00: 16: 24,191 Now, there is a really great group. The tide comes out quickly. 236 00: 16: 24,274 --> 00: 16: 25,734 - How high is it? Yup. 237 00: 16: 25,818 --> 00: 16: 29,780 Maybe it will rise a meter or two In the next half hour. 238 00: 16: 30,406 --> 00: 16: 33,742 The wave will determine when you jump off your board, 239 00: 16: 33,826 --> 00: 16: 36,829 So you have to trust the process. 240 00: 16: 39,039 --> 00: 16: 42,501 If it fails, you can not hear me tell you 241 00: 16: 42,584 --> 00: 16: 45,629 A big wave is coming, swimming under it. 242 00: 16: 45,713 --> 00: 16: 47,923 So, I'll turn and look away. 243 00: 16: 48,007 --> 00: 16: 50,259 Ready? look forward. Ready? Has risen. go ahead. 244 00: 16: 51,260 --> 00: 16: 54,013 No, see where you put your foot. Look. 245 00: 16: 54,096 --> 00: 16: 57,224 No. Look. Your foot must be here. 246 00: 16: 58,017 --> 00: 16: 58,851 First. 247 00: 16: 58,934 --> 00: 16: 59,768 go ahead. 248 00: 17: 00,352 --> 00: 17: 03,105 Well done. This is better. Do it again. 249 00: 17: 03,188 --> 00: 17: 05,441 Well done. But look where you put your foot. 250 00: 17: 05,524 --> 00: 17: 09,778 Well done. But see, you do not have a second chance. 251 00: 17: 12,364 --> 00: 17: 14,033 This is my friend Gordy. 252 00: 17: 14,783 --> 00: 17: 16,744 It was detonated 6 times. 253 00: 17: 18,203 --> 00: 17: 19,371 Hearing loss. 254 00: 17: 20,414 --> 00: 17: 22,583 Lost vision, really. 255 00: 17: 32,342 --> 00: 17: 34,470 - The waves are bad today. She's big. Yup. 256 00: 17: 34,553 --> 00: 17: 35,554 You see others 257 00: 17: 35,637 --> 00: 17: 37,014 - They hit there. - I think I'm doing. 258 00: 17: 46,732 --> 00: 17: 48,650 Go forth and blaspheme. 259 00: 17: 49,902 --> 00: 17: 51,487 Great waves coming. 260 00: 17: 52,863 --> 00: 17: 55,324 My God, where are you? 261 00: 17: 55,407 --> 00: 17: 58,160 continue! 262 00: 17: 59,703 --> 00: 18: 02,289 continue! Do not mess! 263 00: 18: 03,082 --> 00: 18: 04,500 It is you and nature. 264 00: 18: 04,583 --> 00: 18: 07,461 At the moment you get off the water, you know who is in charge. 265 00: 18: 18,055 --> 00: 18: 21,391 I was too scared. I was going to collide. 266 00: 18: 21,475 --> 00: 18: 23,977 I just squatted underwater, 267 00: 18: 24,061 --> 00: 18: 25,229 And was thrown away. 268 00: 18: 27,606 --> 00: 18: 31,777 Bruising, pain, bruising, abrasions. 269 00: 18: 32,945 --> 00: 18: 35,572 The waves hit you, and the board pulls you away. 270 00: 18: 47,292 --> 00: 18: 50,921 This is for the task. This is for their performance. 271 00: 18: 57,427 --> 00: 19: 01,473 You have no control over the ocean. 272 00: 19: 01,557 --> 00: 19: 06,728 What you just control is your attitude and actions. 273 00: 19: 19,199 --> 00: 19: 20,284 OK. 274 00: 19: 22,703 --> 00: 19: 24,580 - Hey. good performance! 275 00: 19: 24,663 --> 00: 19: 26,790 This is cruel, man. 276 00: 19: 26,874 --> 00: 19: 31,837 You can not hear me, you can not see. 277 00: 19: 31,920 --> 00: 19: 33,338 It's tough, concept? 278 00: 19: 33,422 --> 00: 19: 36,925 I have to bring you a bigger board. Don `t give up. 279 00: 19: 37,009 --> 00: 19: 39,887 No. We will not surrender. We only ... 280 00: 19: 39,970 --> 00: 19: 42,431 - What size of the board? - Very small. 281 00: 19: 43,223 --> 00: 19: 45,267 - But what measured it? - Very small. 282 00: 19: 46,351 --> 00: 19: 48,520 Very small. I'll get one bigger. 283 00: 19: 49,104 --> 00: 19: 51,064 - More balance. - But how much was measured? 284 00: 19: 51,148 --> 00: 19: 56,153 - It was measured about 3 meters. do not worry. - The day after tomorrow will be 3 meters. 285 00: 19: 56,236 --> 00: 19: 58,488 No. The day after tomorrow, 3 meters. 286 00: 19: 58,572 --> 00: 20: 00,115 Did you get up? 287 00: 20: 00,199 --> 00: 20: 02,242 - Yeah, you're on two knees. that's cool. 288 00: 20: 02,326 --> 00: 20: 05,495 - Will you start stretching exercises? - No, I'm heating up. 289 00: 20: 07,456 --> 00: 20: 11,210 There are some words I hate, Such as "a short fat person". 290 00: 20: 11,293 --> 00: 20: 13,795 For me, the short fat person Is a useless block, 291 00: 20: 13,879 --> 00: 20: 16,506 These are still legs. There is still an arm. 292 00: 20: 18,592 --> 00: 20: 21,637 It was very concerned by the artificial limbs, 293 00: 20: 21,720 --> 00: 20: 25,432 Surfing will make my anger less He gave me a focus. 294 00: 20: 25,515 --> 00: 20: 26,600 On your messenger only. 295 00: 20: 26,683 --> 00: 20: 29,895 I think this helped me move on. 296 00: 20: 31,438 --> 00: 20: 34,316 Everything I do It is in order to make surfing better. 297 00: 20: 35,817 --> 00: 20: 40,572 They have offered surgery to develop Titanium rod in the bone, 298 00: 20: 40,656 --> 00: 20: 43,617 But it would have blocked a high road. 299 00: 20: 43,700 --> 00: 20: 47,913 Therefore, if it impedes this, I do not want to do it. 300 00: 20: 52,125 --> 00: 20: 54,962 I think surfing is more important than walking. 301 00: 21: 07,557 --> 00: 21: 09,226 We will practice this 4-step simple maneuver. 302 00: 21: 09,309 --> 00: 21: 13,105 The knees up a bit, okay? Then hand. 303 00: 21: 15,399 --> 00: 21: 16,733 And then you must be in this situation. 304 00: 21: 16,817 --> 00: 21: 20,487 The way you turn on the wave Are all we have to do with all this, we agreed? 305 00: 21: 22,531 --> 00: 21: 24,491 I was too afraid to go back. 306 00: 21: 25,492 --> 00: 21: 27,286 I would not really come back. 307 00: 21: 36,003 --> 00: 21: 39,673 I was suffering from something like panic. 308 00: 21: 40,340 --> 00: 21: 42,551 But after I picked up That next wave directly, 309 00: 21: 42,634 --> 00: 21: 44,928 I got up and rode. 310 00: 21: 45,012 --> 00: 21: 47,639 This feeling is like jumping from a plane. 311 00: 21: 47,723 --> 00: 21: 51,810 That time passed in total silence. 312 00: 21: 57,357 --> 00: 22: 00,694 I said, "I'm fine, I'm still alive." 313 00: 22: 02,529 --> 00: 22: 03,905 that was good. 314 00: 22: 03,989 --> 00: 22: 06,867 - To rise. - How is your confidence now? 315 00: 22: 06,950 --> 00: 22: 08,702 - It's getting better. Right? 316 00: 22: 09,411 --> 00: 22: 12,039 Well, ready? go ahead. continue. 317 00: 22: 12,122 --> 00: 22: 16,126 Gently and softness! you are fine! Yes, go on! 318 00: 22: 19,546 --> 00: 22: 20,881 Excellent! 319 00: 22: 29,890 --> 00: 22: 31,516 I'm ready to go back. 320 00: 22: 31,600 --> 00: 22: 32,976 get ready! 321 00: 22: 33,060 --> 00: 22: 34,519 Let 's go, Sean. 322 00: 22: 46,156 --> 00: 22: 47,449 Yes, man! 323 00: 22: 47,532 --> 00: 22: 48,742 Yup. 324 00: 22: 50,327 --> 00: 22: 51,828 It's just a process, right? 325 00: 22: 51,912 --> 00: 22: 54,623 If now, in every session every day, You will build on them. 326 00: 22: 54,706 --> 00: 22: 56,666 - I will only ride the waves with you. Yup. 327 00: 22: 56,750 --> 00: 22: 58,668 I told you, man. 328 00: 22: 58,752 --> 00: 23: 00,170 Bones bare. 329 00: 23: 00,253 --> 00: 23: 02,756 People ready to go out, 330 00: 23: 02,839 --> 00: 23: 06,551 Dressed in diving clothes and then go out into the water, 331 00: 23: 06,635 --> 00: 23: 09,012 They ride the wave themselves. 332 00: 23: 09,846 --> 00: 23: 13,558 That moment can be transformative. 333 00: 23: 14,434 --> 00: 23: 18,105 It helps them to describe themselves as a new story. 334 00: 23: 18,772 --> 00: 23: 25,153 That was the new story Better than the old, this is a powerful transformation. 335 00: 23: 26,238 --> 00: 23: 28,490 When they finish that ride, 336 00: 23: 29,199 --> 00: 23: 32,077 They see the rest of their lives differently. 337 00: 23: 32,953 --> 00: 23: 34,913 This is a lot different from taking a pill. 338 00: 23: 35,580 --> 00: 23: 37,874 He would have killed himself. 339 00: 23: 38,792 --> 00: 23: 41,795 If he did not ride the waves, he might. 340 00: 23: 41,878 --> 00: 23: 44,089 It would have been just another number. 341 00: 23: 45,590 --> 00: 23: 48,468 As soon as it takes over the warriors, 342 00: 23: 48,552 --> 00: 23: 52,055 They start wondering how the waves will be tomorrow. 343 00: 23: 53,223 --> 00: 23: 56,518 If someone thinks about the waves tomorrow, 344 00: 23: 56,601 --> 00: 23: 58,562 He will not kill himself today. 345 00: 23: 59,479 --> 00: 24: 00,605 We will continue. 346 00: 24: 00,689 --> 00: 24: 03,650 There may be people crossing. We will. 347 00: 24: 03,733 --> 00: 24: 04,901 Get off. It is the date of the show. 348 00: 24: 26,089 --> 00: 24: 30,802 I see the future where doctors They write recipes literally 349 00: 24: 30,886 --> 00: 24: 36,433 Drugs, But also includes surfing sessions. three hundred fifty 00: 24: 38,059 --> 00: 24: 39,769 Surfing medicine. 351 00: 24: 40,478 --> 00: 24: 42,606 Ocean is a good medicine. 352 00: 24: 43,857 --> 00: 24: 46,276 We need to talk about him like that. 353 00: 24: 48,653 --> 00: 24: 51,323 I do not think PTSD disappears. 354 00: 24: 53,950 --> 00: 25: 00,248 But that does not mean he is unable To learn positive ways to deal with him, 355 00: 25: 00,332 --> 00: 25: 02,918 Or learn different things he can do 356 00: 25: 03,001 --> 00: 25: 05,962 To bring calm to itself when the conflict begins. 357 00: 25: 08,340 --> 00: 25: 12,469 I went to "Iraq" I promised a completely different person. 358 00: 25: 13,220 --> 00: 25: 15,847 You look into my eyes, and I am without spirit. 359 00: 25: 15,931 --> 00: 25: 18,391 Such as zombie, as if there is no consciousness. 360 00: 25: 22,479 --> 00: 25: 25,232 It's like a second chance for me. 361 00: 25: 30,195 --> 00: 25: 34,574 If I go out, I'll go out now. 362 00: 25: 36,701 --> 00: 25: 38,912 Now, I'm on a mission to live. 363 00: 26: 54,863 --> 00: 26: 56,865